Tag Archives: Hiking

Monopoly Traveler Reflections–Flattop Mountain

The entire reason we were in Rocky Mountain National Park was because of Flattop Mountain Trail. We had been exploring this incredible and gorgeous national park for the past day and a half but now it was time to see the trail that was on our Monopoly Board. Our family spent the day viewing snow capped mountains, amazing waterfalls, and wildlife which brought us to Bear Lake. The trailhead for Flattop. With all of the exploring we had already done, the energy level was draining. We could have decided that this was close enough but it wouldn’t have felt right. How could we ask a ranger to sign our board, as we had been doing at each park to this point, if we at didn’t at least see the sign for this trail? Ready to go we exited our car and headed for the trail.

Stoping to watch wildlife on the trail

The first part of this hike takes you to Bear Lake before veering off past the lake to Flattop Mountain Trail. As we worked our way up the trail we came across a little wildlife hopping through. It was fun to see this Snow Hare in it’s summer dress – mostly a gray coat. In the photo above you can see it on the right side at the edge of a boulder. The girls are looking in its direction. We enjoyed just observing this rabbit as it searched for food near the trail. Eventually we decided to press on as it was getting later in the day and we wanted to be back at the car before dark fell over the mountains. We continued to make our way up this relatively easy trail, following signs for Flattop Mountain. Altitude was certainly being felt but wasn’t seeming to be a major issue. A short time later we arrived at the beginning of Flattop Mountain Trail as announced by a sign at the side of this trail.

Made it to the Flattop sign

At this point we took a short break to enjoy accomplishing our goal of stepping on Flattop Mountain Trail. It was never our intention to hike this whole trail as we were pretty worn out from exploring this large, mountainous wilderness. I walked up the trail a little ways being accompanied by my daughters before turning around and retreating back to the sign just to say I hiked on this trail pictured in our Monopoly board. From here headed back to the car and returned to our hotel after eating dinner for some much needed rest. We had successfully achieved what we had set out to do but I couldn’t help but ponder if this really counted as exploring the trail that brought us out to these Rocky Mountains.

Our second attempt seven years later

Even though we managed to get to the trail we set out to find, A small part of me felt as though we kind of cheated and didn’t really experience the reason this trail was put on our Monopoly Board. Even so, there was really no intention of returning and hiking to the top of Flattop Mountain. As the years went by and we continued on family adventures, we came upon a summer with no park to explore. This feeling of not really hiking the Flattop Mountain Trail had grown more and more. This was also helped by our experience backpacking on Isle Royale for a few days. I grew in my confidence to be able to hike longer distances. And now wanting a summer trip to spend with the family decided to take on the challenge of getting to the top of this mountain and fulfilling this piece of the game. While planning this trip I also began to study maps, distances, and what we would need to do for this hike.

I began to train for the 10 mile hike round trip up into the mountains. Being unsure of how the altitude would affect me, I focused more on building my lung capacity than my leg muscles as I was pretty comfortable with the physical shape I was in. Eventually the time of our trip arrived. It was early August and we drove to Estes Park. This was the first time we returned to one of the National Parks we had already visited. Along the way we made stops at Pipestone National Monument and Scot’s Bluff National Monument so there were new places to see. Making it to Rocky Mountain National Park, I couldn’t stop thinking about whether or not I could really do this. Was I physically fit enough? How would the altitude impact me? The day before the planned hike my oldest daughter announced she was going to join me. She couldn’t let me do it alone. Who would be able to come back and tell mom if I got injured after all? I was thrilled to have company on this hike. Doing it alone just isn’t as enjoyable for me. I love sharing adventures with people.

At the top!

We woke up about 3am to get dressed and head to the trailhead. We wanted to get an early start so we could make it to the top and begin our descent before storms began to build. And storms had been active and were forecast to remain active in this area. We each grabbed a hiking pole, turned on our flashlights, and began the 5 mile journey up the mountain. Everything looked so different that it was seven years ago. Of course it was also dark out and the may have played a part. One foot in front of the other we climbed higher and higher. By sunrise we had put a couple of miles behind us and were about to go above the tree line. We would stop for breaks every now and then but for the most part this hike was going well. Getting above the trees we began to be greeted by marmots venturing out of their nighttime hiding places for the morning. As we continued on we noticed some hikers behind us. We were the first ones on the trail on this day but now others were coming into sight. And they seemed to be catching up to us. A little more motivated we continued moving up the mountain side getting closer and closer to the top.

Finally our destination came into view. We were going to make it. The altitude had become a bit more of an impact now but we were still able to go. And with the hikers gaining behind us, we kept pushing. They were not going to beat us to the top! Step after step we finally reached the summit of Flattop Mountain. A few minutes later the next pair of hikers arrived. We all found a few boulders to sit on and grab a bite to eat enjoying the view around us. Chatting a little we found out that these other two were Marines and came out hiking frequently. No wonder they were able to catch up so quickly. After a little rest we continued to explore the top of the mountain and came upon the Continental Divide Trail. I decided to follow it for a little ways before returning to the summit of Flattop. We have finally completed this property on our Monopoly Board.

But now something else was stirring in my mind. The next adventure was behind me in the photo below. Off in the distance, over my should, there it stands – Longs Peak! The highest point in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The next challenge is behind me

Climbing Grand–Climbing Day

Waking up to the darkness on the mountain, there are other climbers moving around getting ready to hike out of camp. I begin to imagine what this day will be like and all the work put in to get here. All of those early mornings of getting up when I really didn’t want to for a run before heading to work. Running is not my thing but it was the best way I could think of for preparing for the altitude of these mountains. Putting training packs on for Saturday hikes to begin to acclimate our bodies to this extra weight. Exercising to build strength needed for climbing. What seemed like endless stairs with a backpack  that continued to get heavier and heavier as the climb got closer. Accumulating the needed gear over the past 9 months and using it so we would be more use to it in the mountain. This day is why I pushed through all of this preparation and here it is. Would it all be worth it? Was it enough? I couldn’t tell which was more dominate – my excitement to do this or my anxiety over preparedness. It didn’t matter now. The only thing that I needed to focus on was spending this experience with my family and keeping us all safe while trying to enjoy every piece I could. This may be the last opportunity to climb a mountain for me.

The day begins in the dark

The gear for this day was packed, my layers where on, and I was exiting my tent. The only light besides my headlamp were the houses residing over a mile below. Unfortunately it was cloudy so not even the stars where shining. Rain was forecast for later in the day capping how much time we had to climb. I was the first of our group to reach the main tent housing our kitchen here on the mountain. Water was being warmed for my tea and breakfast burritos being steamed for a little energy to tackle the rigorous trail ahead. A few minutes to use the outdoor bathroom and more of our group had arrived ready to go. We all grabbed something to drink, topped off our water bottles, and mentally prepared to achieve our goals for this day. Each of us had different goals and needed to work together to accomplish them. Our time had arrived to hoist the daypacks upon our shoulders and hit the trail. Every step required careful placement being illuminated only by the lights on our head. This first part was what I looked forward to least as it was maneuvering on loose rocks making up a gravel trail. Surprisingly we covered a large amount of ground and were at our first climbing point fairly quickly.

Sunrise from the saddle

We connected our ropes and one by one climbed up this first wall of stone. Once above this spot we noticed something floating through our beams of light. Was that snow? It was at this point I first realized how cold it was and that I was shivering. I really didn’t think much about being cold as I knew we would soon be warming up from the hard work yet to come. With all of our climbers off the ropes we continued on the trail to the saddle between Middle Teton and Grand where another base camp existed along with a ranger tent. Reaching this camp a short time later, we all agreed that the views here were incredible but so was the wind. That would be a little more miserable to deal with all of the time. Our base camp was better protected making the environment more enjoyable we determined. From here we continued on the trail as it continued steeply higher to a series of rock walls to the top. Keeping one foot in front of the other we arrived at larger boulders signaling the base of the peak for Grand.

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This marked the goal of some of our group and they had reached it as daylight continued to illuminate the landscape around us highlighting the path we had taken. After a few minutes of discussion we decided to split into two groups. One would continue the climb while the other made the journey to camp invigorated by reaching their objective on this morning. While I continued on with my cousin, each group kept in touch over radio so they could know how the other group was doing.

For me, the fun part of this adventure was about to begin. The trail steepened and boulder scrambling started putting my physical abilities to the test. Soon the scrambling was complete and it was time to put on the ropes for more serious rock climbing. This seemed like a good time to take off a layer or two as the sun was now shining and the temperatures rising.  I never knew until now how much I enjoy scaling rock walls. Maneuvering from hand hold to foot hold kept a huge smile on my face. Well, until I reached a spot requiring me to climb out, away from the mountain creating the sensation of going to fall off. While it took some time, we made it over this section with a big sigh of relief and continued up. There was no option in our minds of quitting and turning back at this point. Word had reached us that the other group was nearing camp by this time while they had heard we were continuing to climb.

On the climb

Every piece of the climb seemed easier after this as we successfully navigated these vertical rocks continuing to increase our elevation. I finally relaxed a little feeling great and that all of my work preparing was paying off. Breathing was easier than I expected and remembered from my climb on Longs Peak in Colorado. Higher and higher we climbed and I realized as I looked over at Middle Teton, we had reached an altitude above its’ peak. The only peak higher than we were now was Grand.

Word had come over the radio that the other group was now safely back in camp recovering and preparing for the descent the next day. Unfortunately time was not on our side now. It would be unlikely for us to reach the summit this day as we were about 30 minutes from the time we would need to turn around and head back towards camp before storms once again were predicted to engulf the area. Still we continued higher just enjoying the experience and the scenery surrounding us. By this time our other group was beginning to get a little nervous that something happened as they hadn’t heard anything from us for awhile. We were just trying to keep going and not in a great spot for communication to go through surrounded by stone walls.

Reaching a nice plateau, we decided this would be as far as we would go and took some time to sit and reflect on our surroundings and our climb that morning. We radioed back to the other group our location and the return back was about to begin. They sighed with a little relief hearing all was going well and we were ok.

Getting above Middle Teton

Taking some time to get a little to eat, something to drink, and taking a few photos from this place on the mountain, we heading back towards the ledge we had just climbed to get here. What seemed like just a few minutes earlier we climbed up this ledge and now we would begin our descent from here. The trip down always seems to be faster and in a short time we were making our way back over the rocks we climbed and were back at the saddle where we split into two groups.

In just over an hour we would be back in camp, finishing our day of climbing on Grand Teton. While we may not have made it all the way to the top of Grand, I felt fortunate to have this experience and share it with my daughters, cousin and his daughter. Adventures like this have a lasting impact for the rest of our lives and just getting this far is an achievement.

Back at camp a guide asked how our climb was. I responded with it being a great experience with lots of beautiful sights. We may have been the least able climbers on the mountain that day but at least we were on it doing what we could. I was glad to be reunited with our group and begin sharing this experience with each other at camp while grabbing some nourishment and rehydrating, waiting for storms that never formed.

Enjoying the views of the landscape around us

Climbing Grand–Training Day

It was Saturday morning, the day after hiking 7 miles and gaining around 5,000 feet in elevation. The rain and wind had been pounding at our tents for much of the night but now had settled down. This was to be our training day in the mountains with breakfast starting us off at 8am. We were all tired and quite stiff, unsure of how much energy our bodies still had for climbing activities but we were here and wanted to climb Grand. With this motivation we got dressed and collected near the Kitchen – a larger tent with a rounded roof for hot breakfast burritos to start the day. It was cloudy and cool but at least the rain wasn’t falling. For how long we weren’t sure as the forecast called for more storms to develop as the afternoon continued so we needed to take advantage of the dry morning.

Getting our climbing gear fitted and put on

The first step was getting climbing gear fitted and put on which included day packs, helmet, harness, and carabineers to attach ropes to. Everything we would bring with the next day for our main climb. My expectation for this day was to fit our gear and an introduction on how to use it including attaching ropes, terminology, and climbing techniques on rocks or boulders nearby. Once the gear was on and tightened correctly we headed for a few boulders just above us to begin to learn how to use and trust our approach shoes. These were new to all of us so I didn’t realize the bottoms of these shoes have different tread for different climbing uses. Our guide showed us what these different treads were for and then headed for a rock slab to put them to use. None of us were ready to work on this slab as it was still wet from rain the night before. There’s no way we would get up it without slipping and injuring something. After a lot of convincing from our trusted guides, we began to move up and down the slab using techniques and body position to move up and down this slab sticking to it with our rubber bottomed shoes even though it was wet. From here we moved on to a boulder which had a square corner and again used climbing techniques with body position to locate hand and foot holds which at first didn’t appear to be there. Amazing how we learned to move up and down this rock also!

About to attempt our first class 5 climb

Soon we were on a trail to the peaks in the top photo. Arriving at the base, our guides began to pull out ropes and remove a few layers of clothing in preparation for teaching us how to go up the mountain. Taking this lead, we also began to remove a few layers as we would begin working more and getting quite warm. At this time it was a good opportunity to drink some water and eat something. You burn a lot of calories while climbing and require more water to remain hydrated in the dry mountain air. In a few minutes we were all attached to ropes and instructed on the path to take up this steep rock. From a distance these peaks appear to be straight up and down and quite intimidating. Once you begin to study them up close you can often find paths using ledges and crevices and begin to figure out how to move towards the top. Again, trusting our guides, we tried to follow their paths and all worked together to locate places to put our hands and feet that were secure in order to push ourselves up the rock. Even though we were attached by ropes, none of us was interested in seeing how well they were holding us and relied solely on our hand and foot holds. I didn’t really expect to get into this level of training. It almost felt as though we were thrown right into some major mountaineering.

Getting near the top

In what seemed like a very short time we had climbed a significant distance and having fun doing it. I was so concerned the altitude would prevent me from climbing at a reasonable speed and was pleasantly shocked to find it wasn’t much of a factor in my ability to keep a good pace. Keep in mind were were above 11,000 feet. This wouldn’t seem all that difficult except we normally live at 1,000 feet in elevation. For those that haven’t experience higher altitudes before, this is a huge change and really affects getting adequate oxygen into your body. I’ve been told it’s a good comparison for people with asthma because it feels like you’re constantly gasping for air while exerting energy at this elevation. At least until you adjust to it.

Learning to trust the ropes and harnesses

Becoming more comfortable with our gear and climbing abilities, we moved up the rock reaching higher ledges with more spectacular views. As I was really starting to have a lot of fun I reached up for the next ledge to climb, bringing myself on top of it only to realize this was the summit. There was no where else to climb up. We sat on top enjoying the view of the mountains and valleys around us while other members of our group worked their way up. At first I couldn’t believe we did it and now I was amazed at how quickly we seemed to make it to the summit. Unfortunately it meant we were also done with this part of the training. I wanted to do more! As the rest of our group made it to the top, we began to make preparations for the descent.

Getting re-hooked back up to the mountain on different ropes, we were instructed that this was the part designed to learn how to trust our equipment. The guide told us to move towards the ledge and lean over putting all of our weight on the harness and ropes. For those of you who haven’t tried this, looking over a ledge that is essentially straight up and down for hundreds of feet below with nothing but sharp boulders to land on, putting all of your trust into a single rope is not easy. Eventually, while hanging out over this ledge, we managed to put our full weight on this single rope and began to repel down the mountain we had just climbed up.  Getting more comfortable repelling, it became fun to move down the rock quickly using less effort and soon we were back on the lowest ledge needing to hike to the next area on which to descend. In a short time we were back hiking towards camp reflecting on this mountaineering we had learned and achieved. What a fantastic experience which was now over all to quickly! It was time to rest up and re-energize for our main goal of climbing on Grand Teton the next day.

Successfully made it to the top of this one

Climbing Grand– The Hike Up

After several years of planning, our most challenging adventure yet had arrived – climbing Grand Teton. I shared this adventure with my two daughters along with a cousin and his daughter. We were all very nervous about whether or not we were physically able to do this but also excited for a chance to climb this challenging mountain. While it may not be as tall as many in Colorado, it’s every bit as demanding. If not more so. My biggest concern was the altitude and what effects it would have on everyone including myself. The last time I climbed a mountain (Longs Peak) I found I would begin to black out if I moved too fast at the higher elevations and I knew this time I would need to keep a good pace in order to be successful. My training had been more intense for this adventure so hopefully that would make a difference in my abilities at the top of the mountain.

On the Trail

We began our journey to our camping location about 8am uncertain about what was ahead of us besides 7 miles of up hill climbs in order to reach our camping destination. Leaving from the Lupine Meadows trailhead, the ground was flat but soon turned up. The first mile went by quickly and seemed rather tolerable. The second mile was more of the same keeping our pace at a nice clip towards our destination. Between here and mile three there was a surprise. A black bear was gorging on berries near the trail. It really didn’t appear to have much interest in us other than wanting us to continue moving on so it could eat in peace. We cautiously continued up the hill after watching this bear for a short time without incident. Several other hikers ahead and behind us did the same. The bear became a topic of conversation for a brief moment at camp with other climbers as it seemed to stay there for some time.

A bear near the trail feeding heavily

Over the next couple of miles we began to hike above the tree line where the terrain became more rocky but the incline was still manageable allowing us to continue moving higher. As the halfway point came and went, altitude began to show its impact as our breathing became more labored and our legs became more fatigued. The scenery was a great distraction of these discomforts with beautiful mountain vistas surrounding us and water running downhill from the melting glaciers above filling the air with calming sounds. Middle Teton could be seen above us now but no sign of our destination near Grand Teton. After a short break we began to climb large boulders which I enjoyed more than the typical trail. These didn’t last long and soon we had reached Lupine Meadows which was incredibly beautiful Mountain scene with flowers, waterfalls, and Grand Teton in the background.

The trail begins to get more rocky as we hike higher up

Pulling off the trail and finding a boulder to sit on, we took a break to eat and re-fill water containers from the mountain stream after filtering it first. I could have stayed here for hours just enjoying the sights and sounds but time was going by quickly and clouds were beginning to build. Storms appeared to be on there way and staying dry was preferred for the last portion of our trail. Repacking our food into our backpacks, we once again grabbed trekking poles and continued putting one foot in front of the other. Only a few miles left to go. Unknown to us at this moment but our trail was about to get quite a bit more difficult as the hills steepened. Our incline became more difficult, the altitude was having a more intense effect on our breathing, and the clouds continued to get darker motivating us to keep hiking up this hill towards camp. Our legs were really wearing out now feeling as though the could just collapse. We had to stop to catch our breath and regain some balance often going up these last few miles but tried to keep moving as much as possible. Finally another mile had passed with only one more to go. Could we make it the rest of the way up this steep hill?

Scenery continues to get more spectacular as the hike progresses

I began to accept that we were going to get wet as thunder could be heard behind us. While this provided some motivation, was it enough to keep our weary bodies moving? Still climbing one step at a time, we continued on our journey wondering if this will ever come to an end. Continuing to slowly move higher, it felt like a snail would move faster up these switchbacks. Each breath became precious trying push energy into our legs which now seemed to have the consistency of Jello. I noticed a few drops starting to fall and tried to climb faster on a seemingly endless trail. When if felt as though our trail would not end it leveled out. Finally some mercy for our legs! A short hike later and we had reached our destination of Corbet High Camp. Thankfully the tents were already set up so all we had to do was race inside with our packs to stay mostly dry. The last hiker entered their tent and zipped it shut before the storms, which had chased us up the mountain, let loose.

The mountain had been kind to us allowing us to reach shelter just in time. We collapsed onto the sleeping mats allowing our aching legs to begin their recovery while bright flashes penetrated the tent walls followed by the loud, humbling cracks of thunder and intense rain smashing all around us outside. Filled with relief for getting here we began to feel the satisfaction of accomplishment for pushing so hard on this difficult trail. But what have we gotten ourselves into?

The most challenging part of the hike is at the end

Isle Royale–The Last Day

After getting settled into our shelter from the mornings hike from Island Mine, the first thing to do was head for the bathrooms with running water and wash up a little. The clean, cool water felt great! Returning to the shelter it was then time to grab something to eat while enjoying the beautiful, quiet camp. With some rest I wanted to wander around Windigo a little and take photos of the trail, flowers, and wildlife while reflecting on our time since last in Windigo 5 days ago. Something was different this time. On the last adventure to Isle Royale in 2012, I couldn’t wait for the boat to pick us up and return to civilization. This time I was dreading the return to the ferry. Why was this time so different? What changed?

Pink Ladyslippers

The sun began to drift lower in the sky bringing a warmer light to the trail. A perfect time to spend with the camera now capturing this beautiful place. Finding all of the orchids we passed at the beginning of this journey so I could photograph them was my goal. I just couldn’t stop taking pictures of the trail and the plants along side it. Every corner provided a different, but beautiful scene. With the day moving closer to the end, it was time to head back to camp and cook one of our last meals before light disappeared. Once this was complete, more time enjoying the view and reflecting on this amazing experience was in order. Eventually the stars began to shine, although many were covered with clouds. I decided to take this last opportunity to do a little night photography. Unfortunately the moon was full with its brightness drowning out many of the twinkling lights in the sky. I snapped some photos trying different shots. After an hour or so of this it was back to the shelter and off to bed.

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I could see some light entering the sky and decided to get up and watch this last sunrise on Isle Royale. There were some beautiful colors in the sky which I wanted to capture with the camera. Leaving the shelter I noticed a runny nose. Just a quick couple of pictures and I would take care of that. That’s when a drop hit the ground which I noticed was red. Dang it! I returned to the shelter for toilet paper to stop my bloody nose and then continued towards the shoreline with the camera. As soon as I turned it on the battery died. Another trip into the shelter to grab a new battery and then back to the camera again. By this time the colors of the morning rising sun had faded. Missed them! Frustrated with the mornings events so far I heard splashing. A moose had come to say good morning which was soon chased away by two more entering the water. This sight never grew tiresome.

Hiking trail

The morning grew older. Camp was all packed up for the last time as departure came closer and closer. I was struggling to force myself to leave. There was such a strong connection to this place now. It felt like the island accepted us as part if its inhabitants, revealing so much of its wilderness many others are not able to see as they keep to their boats or step foot here for only a couple of hours. Even so I kept through the motions of waiting for our ferry and eventually climbing on board. The Voyageur II departed the dock bringing a sadness to me. It kind of felt as though I was being taken against my wishes to the mainland. It’s very difficult to describe. I didn’t want to leave and at the same time I really didn’t want to stay. There’s so much more yet to experience in this place. Was this feeling because I will never be back even though my intentions are to return? I continue to miss Isle Royale and its been over a year since that trip. The solitude. The plant life. The wildlife. The rocks this place is built on. The history of mining and fishing. One piece I don’t miss is the mosquitoes. That constant buzz is still in my ears on a quiet evening.

I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience this place and to have done so with my daughter and cousin. Hopefully some day again I will step foot in this incredible wilderness.

Leaving the island

Isle Royale–The Last Hike

In 2019 I spent six days on Isle Royale National Park with my youngest daughter and one of my cousins hiking the Feldtmann Loop. We had spent the night in Island Mine campground enjoying the only official campground completely in the woods in this National Park. All of the others are near water. Fortunately mosquitoes weren’t as fierce as we originally feared they would be making for a more enjoyable night by our campfire. As daylight crept into the tent and began to light up the forest we began to move around preparing for our final day on the trails. There was excitement about getting to Windigo where there is running water and also hesitation to begin this hike knowing our adventure was nearing a close. All of our gear was now packed up. The last thing we needed to do was cover ourselves in bug spray hoping to reduce the amount of blood stolen from us during the next seven miles to complete our journey.

Packing up camp and getting ready to hike

Doused in repellent, we hoisted our packs, grabbed the trekking poles and began our walk. Today’s path begins by a steep decline immediately followed by a steep incline to reach the next trail intersection leading to Windigo. Beginning the day with this type of terrain is a little difficult and demoralizing as you break out in a sweat right away with tiring legs quickly. As soon as we got to the intersection we dropped the packs and grabbed a snack along with water to recoup for a few minutes. This gave me time to set up the camera for trail pics to mark the beginning of our day surrounded by the beautiful forest. Regaining our legs and energy it was back on the trail knowing that it’s mostly downhill from here. Fortunately this is a relatively high point on Isle Royale.

Hitting the trail

We were moving at a fairly good clip by now after almost 30 miles of backpacking. Our bodies were adjusting to carrying all this weight allowing us to move faster and for longer stretches without a break. There were times we hiked at over 5 miles per hour which was a very good pace for us on this journey. And that was near the end of the hike. Not while we were fresh starting out. I enjoy hiking but not as much as exploring the areas we hike to. That’s the part I like most about backpacking – relaxing and wandering around in an area taking my time to notice the pieces that make up that place. Unique insects, wildlife, plants, and rocks. It seems most hikers are always in a hurry to get on the trail with the goal of putting in as much mileage as they can each day. I do like seeing the places I go through but I miss so many of the details while on the trail. The hike from Island Mine to Windigo seemed too quiet with very little wildlife moving about.

On the trail

As we got closer to the end of the trail we encountered a group of hikers heading in the opposite direction. They said we were about a mile away as far as they could figure which was a great sound to our ears – almost there. Just another 20 minutes or so. Soon after they passed I looked at my phone, which was recording the hike, and saw we had closer to 2 miles left if my mileage was accurate. I didn’t really mind that they were off. I kind of knew we likely had more trail left than they indicated based on how long we’d been hiking. My expectation was to hike at 1.5 – 2.0 miles per hour (mph) including breaks which would take us 3 – 4 hours. In what seemed like no time at all we reached another trail intersection marking near the end of our journey. From here, we had hiked the trail on our last journey to Isle Royale National Park so it all should seem somewhat familiar. I was surprised to see we were moving at a pace of 2.6 mph with a top speed of over 5 mph which was close to the end of our hike. We arrived at the Washington Creek campground and immediately headed for the shelter we stayed at the last time we were here in 2012. Fortunately it was open and we quickly set up camp for the last time. Just then a loud splashing was coming from the water right in front of us. A moose had come to welcome us to Windigo (top photo)!

At the shelter in Windigo

Isle Royale–Headed to Island Mine

Last summer my daughter Kris, cousin Chad, and I went to Isle Royale on a backpacking adventure. I’ve written posts on the first part of that trip from Windigo to Feldtmann Lake and onto Siskiwit Bay previously. This is a continuation of our experience on the island.

After a full day of resting and enjoying the area around Siskiwit Bay it was once again time to pull on our packs and head out. The destination was Island Mine Campground which was only 4 1/2 miles away but we decided to get an early start to the day. Mosquitoes could be bad there and if that’s the case we wanted enough time to continue hiking on towards Windigo. Camping in a mosquito infested area is not that fun as the safest place is inside a tent after killing whatever insect followed inside. Spending an afternoon swatting these pests was not our idea of fun so we wanted to give ourselves the opportunity to keep going in daylight if necessary. If we hiked at our average pace we should be there in 3 hours, 4 if we really take our time. That would still give us enough time to continue the 6 1/2 miles to Windigo and arrive before dark.

A fresh wolf print in the sand

The first two miles of the hike are along the shore of Siskiwit Bay. Half of those two miles are along the beach. While navigating the beach and trying to stay dry from waves washing up on shore, we came across fresh wolf prints in the sand. This must have been the wolf cry we heard the night before. These were recent because we had walked this same beach the day before and there were no wolf tracks in the sand at that time. By this time we had seen everything but a wolf itself. There was a kill and scat on the way to Siskiwit Bay, a howl in the night, and now the tracks. Seeing an actual wolf would have been amazing but to see all of these signs and hear one was more than I expected so I was quite satisfied just to know they were near.

On the trail towards Island Mine Campground

Making our way around the bay, we came to a place with a sharp left turn. This will be the last view of Lake Superior for the next day as our next campsite will be in the middle of the Island. The trail slowly begins to ascend as we moved inland and the mosquitoes seem all to happy to welcome us back to the woods. Dowsing ourselves in bug spray, these irritating pests added motivation to keep moving with their constant hum as they searched for any little spot without repellant on it to steal blood. After seeing so many moose near the previous camp sites, we were always on the lookout for one that may pose danger on the trail. This can be a challenge because you also have to keep your eyes on the trail lest a rock or root jump up from the ground and trip you. Falling on the trail with all of that extra weight on your back is a good way to get the air knocked out of you or twist your ankle. Not something we wanted to experience during this adventure.

An old mine shaft or storage area

It seemed like a very short time, but we had hiked for a couple of hours when we came upon the abandoned mine this area is labeled after. Large piles of tailings highlight the entrance with few plants covering them even after a century of closing. Walking over these first piles you begin to see equipment left here from a long time ago. In one are there was something built that could have been a mine shaft or storage facility which you can see in the photo above. Many of the pieces have been weathered over the years bringing a further authenticity to this historic site. We spent nearly an hour exploring this old operation imagining how things were done from the placement of the equipment, tailings, and excavation locations. It was fun to be able to take our time looking over this site and imagine the people and how they worked here, even for a short time wondering if this would have been something I would have enjoyed doing back in the day.

Some old equipment abandoned at Island Mine

With a little under a mile to go, we got back on the trail heading towards the campsite a little under a mile away. The remaining hike continued through a mature forest of maples, firs, and aspen up and down hills. What a sight this area must be in the fall as the trees explode in reds, oranges, and yellows preparing for winter. Eventually we came to a creek crossing with a steep hill to climb. The hill would be a bit of a challenge anyway but with all of our extra weight it was even more daunting.  With the aid of small trees to help with the climb we made it to the top and saw the sign laying out the campsites. We’re already here we thought? And at the same time had a sigh of relief to be able to pull the packs off and set up camp. We were the only ones at this campsite, for now. Before getting too much pulled out of our packs we took a little time to feel out the bug situation. How bad were the mosquitoes? Do we continue on to Windigo or are they tolerable enough that we can stay as planned?

Settling in at camp

There really weren’t many mosquitoes in this location and water was available a short distance away so we decided to spend the night in the only campsite on Isle Royale that isn’t near water. And one of the few that allow fires. The tent was excavated from a backpack and quickly set up with sleeping bags and pillows and most of our gear stored for the night. We gathered wood to start a fire and began cooking our main meal of the day. While hiking the meals consist of trail bars, trail mix, and whatever else is in a bag for snacking but when in camp we cook something more substantial to aid in recovering from a strenuous journey on the trail. While eating, the quietness of the woods begins to settle in and you realize you’re alone as no other hikers had come through while we’ve been in camp. We could yell at the top of our lungs and no one would be able to hear us. It was possible the closest people to us were more than 4 miles away. Both comforting and disturbing! Thoughts quickly shifted to our time together in this beautiful place as we have just one more hike to bring this incredible adventure to an end.

Enjoying a rare fire on Isle Royale

Previous posts of this trip:

A Return to Isle Royale

Independence Day on Isle Royale

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay part II

Isle Royale–Enjoying a Day at Siskiwit Bay

Isle Royale – A Moose Close Up and Personal

Isle Royale–Enjoying a Day at Siskiwit Bay

With the weather forecast calling for dry days ahead, we had some time to stay at Siskiwit Bay and explore. We had built in a rain day to our schedule which it looked like we would not need so we decided a day to recover from the previous hikes would be nice. This is one of the campgrounds on Isle Royale where both hikers and boaters are able to share it. Typically those entering the bay by boat sleep in the boat but disembark for meals and to just walk around after being confined to their boat for an extended period of time. We were told it’s often full of boats as this is a nice overnight shelter from the higher waves and storms that can produce treacherous waves on Lake Superior. There were only a couple of boats the previous night and no other hikers so it was pretty quiet at this campground. As the other people finished getting ready for the day and departed the docks we were all alone to enjoy this beautiful place.

A red fox came to greet us for the day

As the sun continued to climb from the horizon we decided it was probably time to climb out of our warm sleeping bags after a night of listening to moose meander by crunching loudly on sticks as they ate. Often the first thing to be done each day is use the outhouse. After that it’s replenish our water supply. Grabbing the collection bag we headed down to the water for a refill of cold Lake Superior water. Soon after reaching the waters edge I happened to turn around and saw we were not alone. A little red fox and followed us and was now just observing from the trail. Once it was clear we weren’t offering any nourishment, the fox continued exploring the docks for anything the boaters may have left. With no success the fox made its way elsewhere and we returned to our shelter with a full bag of water needing to be filtered.

Squirrel climbing an old Moose antler

While the water ran through our gravity fed filter we began searching our food supply for breakfast. As we began to eat our morning meal, the resident squirrel appeared. Each campsite has at least one of these for entertainment and a little company. They’re very good at climbing all over bringing much appreciated entertainment bordering almost on annoying at times as you have to watch you’re stuff. We became a little concerned as the squirrel began to show too much interest in our water filter and pouches and chased it off until we could move it to a little more secure spot. A leak in our pouch would not be a good thing for the rest of the adventure.

 

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With the first meal of the day finished it was on to our next item planned for the day. When we arrived on the Island rangers had said our exit from Siskiwit Bay may be a bit wet as beavers had been altering where the water was running creating new marshy areas and with a lot of rain earlier this season things may be a bit difficult. So we wanted to explore the trail a little without our packs on to find the best route ahead of time. Also this gave us a chance to see some other parts of the shore wrapping around the bay. Walking back towards the hiking trail we were enjoying the beautiful morning and all of the flowers in bloom. Thankfully mosquitoes were not much of an issue at the moment. Continuing on the trail towards Island Mine Campground we came across some wetter trail but managed to find relatively easy ways around it. Feeling confident in our next days trail, we walked on the beach taking in the sights around us.

Wild Iris blooming

There were many spring plants in bloom including Irises and roses to enjoy along with the waves from Lake Superior hitting the sandy shoreline. We were beginning to feel pangs of hunger again and decided to meander back towards the shelter for lunch. While cooking a hot meal to enjoy a Snowshoe Hare appeared. Expecting it to continue on, we were surprised when it just stayed near a shrub until most of us went into the shelter to grab plates and utensils to eat with. With only my daughter still out by the table the hare began bouncing closer. She grabbed the camera which was fortunately sitting on the table and snapped a few pictures of our visitor. Continuing to move closer I just stood and watched from the shelter. Now almost sitting on my daughters feet, she was enjoying her new furry friend wondering if she could reach down and pet it. Knowing better she just stayed still and continued taking pictures until the bunny hope off into the woods. It was beautiful with mottled black and brown fur dressed in its summer colors. With our furry visitor gone we returned to lunch.

Snowshoe Hare in its summer colors

Once lunch was put away and the dishes washed it was time for a little R & R. With a chance to reflect on the past few days and everything it took for all of us to be in this place at this time I was just really grateful how well it was working out and thankful for the time with my cousin and youngest daughter. She had been hesitant to go backpacking feeling uncertain of her abilities so to be able to share this experience with her was something I will always cherish. With a little rest it was time to accomplish one other thing I wanted to do with this day and that was back track a little of yesterdays trail to photograph the meadows full of flowers. Unfortunately clouds had overtaken the blue sky making the meadow pictures less interesting but that’s something I have little control over.

 

Meadow in full bloom

On the way to the meadows I turned to say something to my cousin who was accompanying me when something unusual caught my eye. Something didn’t look quite right among this grouping of trees but I didn’t know what it was immediately. Studying the trees for a few seconds I realized I saw the light brown of antlers. It was a bull moose standing there. We watched for a short time as he went on his way chomping off leaves as he went and so we continued on our track more comfortable that the moose wasn’t coming toward us. It was in this area that we met the first hikers of the day headed to Siskiwit Bay. We exchanged a few words before they continued on their way after watching the moose briefly. Arriving in the portion of meadows I wanted to photograph I began to try different compositions to capture the beauty sitting before us. What were all of these flowers? There were yellow, orange, pink, white, and purple all blended together to create a place that could only appear in a dream were you’re laying down among all these flowers watching the clouds move across a deep blue sky. All we were missing was the deep blue sky. We decided to head back towards camp for the night to make another meal before crashing in preparation for the next days hike. It was at this point we had a confrontation with the moose from earlier. A story for another post!

A bull moose wandering through the woods

We made it back to camp, enjoyed another warm meal and decided this day would not be complete without a campfire. There’s one fire pit for the entire camp to share. We gathered some dried wood from the beach and from under trees in the area and created a nice fire. A few boats had entered the bay and docked for the night and were finishing up their evening meal after fishing for the day. Once darkness set in they came over and joined us at the fire as we exchanged stories of Isle Royale. As the night grew they began to offer us freshly cooked pizza and a few beers. Knowing we needed to remain hydrated we declined the beer and continued to drink our water while enjoying pizza at the camp fire. An unexpected treat for us! Through the darkness we could make out the call of loons from across the lake letting us know we were in the Northland. These calls turned into distressed sounds. Must be moose getting too close to the loons. I witnessed this a few morning earlier when a moose swam too close to a loon. All of a sudden there was a different sound it was similar to the loon call but ended differently. Discussing this difference with our new camp fire friends we realized the last call we heard was a young wolf. Probably one of the new wolves moved to the island that winter. One call was all we heard and then everything was quiet again. Eventually we said goodnight and headed for our sleeping bags knowing the next day could become very long depending on how far we ended up backpacking. About to drift off we could hear something outside our shelter. Yep, a couple of moose crunching on leaves and sticks bidding goodnight to another great day on Isle Royale.

Ending the day by a fire

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay part II

After a short time, making our way through the swampy landscape near our campsite  on this beautiful summer day, we began a steep climb onto the second highest ridge on Isle Royale. Fortunately there were stairs made from stones to assist in this steep climb. At least this climb is near the beginning for us while we have most of our energy. Finally reaching the end of this climb we removed the backpacks, grabbed some water, and caught our breath before venturing on. The trail continues to climb from this point but at a much more gradual ascent. In no time at all, at least that’s how it seemed, we were on top of the ridge looking over Feldtmann Lake. We had reached the other end of the lake which was about two miles of our journey. It was another beautiful view of this part of Isle Royale. This seemed like a nice place to once again remove this weight from our backs and take a short break enjoying this place we’re at. After some time we hefted our packs onto our backs again ready for the trail once again. I looked at my camera and noticed it seemed to be broken and missing some pieces. By some luck I was able to find the missing pieces after searching for several minutes and snap them back onto the camera. Nothing was broken. What a relief! We shoved off once again.

Looking back at Feldtmann Lake from the fire tower

The trail winding back and forth through trees and meadows. It was warming up now and the mosquitoes began moving to find their meals hidden beneath the skin in our arms, legs, and face. It was time to apply insect repellant which helped a lot but did not stop all of the mosquitoes from the sweet taste or our blood.  Marching on through the woods, the trees began to get less and less as we started to climb once again. Going around a corner a fire tower came into view. What a relief! This marks the halfway point of our day’s adventure. This seemed like a nice place to rest for awhile and grab some food and water. After sitting and regaining some of our energy we climbed the many stairs to the top of this tower. Seeing where we had come from on one side and examining the area we were headed put our journey into perspective. Most of our climbing appeared to be done with mostly downhill and flat trails ahead. A bright spot as the soreness in our legs and backs continued to remind us how heavy our packs were. Sitting awhile longer trying to motivate ourselves, we finally heaved the packs up onto our backs and began the descent towards Siskiwit Bay.

Crossing a creek

This part of the journey continued on through forests with a few swamps mixed in where beavers had damned creeks to create small pools above the trail. Mosquitoes obviously thrive in these as they braved our repellant to steal whatever blood they could. At one of these mucky areas there was a stench of something dead. Nearby were the remains of a beaver which looked like it had been killed by a wolf. We had been told of a few of these signs that wolves were nearby the day before from others traveling over this trail. To see a wolf is a rare sight on the island but does occasionally happen. As the trail once again turned downward into the trees, there was a creek to cross. Fortunately a large tree had fallen across making a path over the moving water without having to get wet. From here we continued down through the mosquito filled forest making our way to dryer soil.Entering the meadows near Siskitwit Bay

About halfway between the fire tower and our next campsite the trail reached a valley making travel a little easier on flat ground. The only challenge now was the Thimbleberry bushes continually grabbing at us with stiff, sharp branches which hid the occasional rock or tree root from which to trip over. Continuing through these Thimbleberry bushes for several miles they eventually end with a mix of trees and meadows filled with all sorts of plants displaying their colorful flowers. It’s been warm under the blazing summer sun with little to no breeze since leaving the fire tower. As we continue hiking through these meadows, a cool breeze starts to make its way into the trees reached our sweat soaked faces. We have to be close! That cool air must be blowing off of Lake Superior. A short distance later there was the sign with the trademark metal map of the campgrounds nearby. We’ve made it! Dropping my pack I continue on exploring the campground to find which spot we’re going to spend the next couple of nights at. Looking over each tent site and shelter I realize we’re the first ones to camp and currently the only ones here. We chose which shelter we wanted to sleep and set our stuff down. The first priority was to filter water. While doing so we soaked our sore feet in the cold waters of Lake Superior relieving our burning ankles after hiking near 11 miles with a lot of weight strapped to our backs. We could only keep them in the 45 degree water for a few minutes before they turned blue and became numb. It was better than soaking in an ice bath. The rest of the day involved relaxing, setting up camp, and a little exploring before ending this day with an amazing sunset. The best sunset during our time on this beautiful island!

Ending a day of hiking with an amazing sunset

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay

There’s a scratching noise near the corner of our tent that welcomes me back to consciousness after a nice sleep. What is that? I wonder. Listening a bit more before moving I hear it again. It must be some kind of rodent so I reach over to the edge of the tent and knock on it a few times. The sound goes away. Being a little more alert now the nerves start to enter. Today is our longest day on the trail of this entire adventure. The listed mileage is over 10 miles. I’ve never gone that far before with a heavy backpack on. How will we all do? Have we recovered enough from hiking into Feldtmann Lake? Will my cousins ankle hold up? He injured it falling off a roof several years ago. I know it will be painful for him but will it be manageable? How will my daughter do? She’s been nervous about being the weakest link and holding us back ever since deciding to come back to Isle Royale. I’m confident she’ll do well but she doesn’t seem to be enjoying the island as much as the last time she was here. These thoughts continue to cycle through my mind for awhile before being interrupted by splashing out in the lake. A Moose….

Waking up to a moose

I decide to get up and grab the camera. Watching the moose, if that’s actually what’s making the noise, is what motivates me to begin moving but the camera is for capturing what I hope will be a beautiful sunset. Reaching the shoreline I can see a young bull moose a short distance down the shoreline walking around in the water in search of food in the dim light. Sunrise is at least a half an hour away yet. I slowly attach the camera to it’s tripod because it’s too dark for hand holding and getting a sharp photo. Trying not to disturb the moose while I’m doing this which was successful. After a few minutes the moose begins to swim across the lake all the time shifting his ears listening for anything chasing it from behind or on the shore on the other side of Feldtmann Lake. Such a peaceful and beautiful way to start this day in early July. By the time the moose neared the shore, fog had rolled in making it almost disappear into the mist. The sun was nearing the horizon but the fog blowing in off of Lake Superior was now covering much of the sky. So much for my desired amazing sunrise this morning. Just at this time another moose came splashing into the water nearby looking for food. What an experience!

A foggy morning

From behind me I could hear rustling in the tent and then the zipper moving. My cousin was now making his way to the beach after hearing the moose. Pointing to where the large animal was we both sat and watched, snapping a few pictures every now and then, as it slowly walked further and further into the water. I headed back to the tent to let my daughter know there was a moose not far away and that it was almost time to start packing anyway. She was outside of the tent in a minute or so and all three of us were watching the moose until it was out of sight. Now time for some nourishment while stuffing all of our belongings into backpacks for a trip through the island. Within the next hour we were packed, refilled our water containers, and grabbed our hiking poles while munching on some protein bars for breakfast. The fog was disappearing which allowed the sun to penetrate the thick forest as we set off on a day of hiking.

Hiking on

Continued in part II……