Tag Archives: Isle Royale National Park

Isle Royale–The Last Day

After getting settled into our shelter from the mornings hike from Island Mine, the first thing to do was head for the bathrooms with running water and wash up a little. The clean, cool water felt great! Returning to the shelter it was then time to grab something to eat while enjoying the beautiful, quiet camp. With some rest I wanted to wander around Windigo a little and take photos of the trail, flowers, and wildlife while reflecting on our time since last in Windigo 5 days ago. Something was different this time. On the last adventure to Isle Royale in 2012, I couldn’t wait for the boat to pick us up and return to civilization. This time I was dreading the return to the ferry. Why was this time so different? What changed?

Pink Ladyslippers

The sun began to drift lower in the sky bringing a warmer light to the trail. A perfect time to spend with the camera now capturing this beautiful place. Finding all of the orchids we passed at the beginning of this journey so I could photograph them was my goal. I just couldn’t stop taking pictures of the trail and the plants along side it. Every corner provided a different, but beautiful scene. With the day moving closer to the end, it was time to head back to camp and cook one of our last meals before light disappeared. Once this was complete, more time enjoying the view and reflecting on this amazing experience was in order. Eventually the stars began to shine, although many were covered with clouds. I decided to take this last opportunity to do a little night photography. Unfortunately the moon was full with its brightness drowning out many of the twinkling lights in the sky. I snapped some photos trying different shots. After an hour or so of this it was back to the shelter and off to bed.

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I could see some light entering the sky and decided to get up and watch this last sunrise on Isle Royale. There were some beautiful colors in the sky which I wanted to capture with the camera. Leaving the shelter I noticed a runny nose. Just a quick couple of pictures and I would take care of that. That’s when a drop hit the ground which I noticed was red. Dang it! I returned to the shelter for toilet paper to stop my bloody nose and then continued towards the shoreline with the camera. As soon as I turned it on the battery died. Another trip into the shelter to grab a new battery and then back to the camera again. By this time the colors of the morning rising sun had faded. Missed them! Frustrated with the mornings events so far I heard splashing. A moose had come to say good morning which was soon chased away by two more entering the water. This sight never grew tiresome.

Hiking trail

The morning grew older. Camp was all packed up for the last time as departure came closer and closer. I was struggling to force myself to leave. There was such a strong connection to this place now. It felt like the island accepted us as part if its inhabitants, revealing so much of its wilderness many others are not able to see as they keep to their boats or step foot here for only a couple of hours. Even so I kept through the motions of waiting for our ferry and eventually climbing on board. The Voyageur II departed the dock bringing a sadness to me. It kind of felt as though I was being taken against my wishes to the mainland. It’s very difficult to describe. I didn’t want to leave and at the same time I really didn’t want to stay. There’s so much more yet to experience in this place. Was this feeling because I will never be back even though my intentions are to return? I continue to miss Isle Royale and its been over a year since that trip. The solitude. The plant life. The wildlife. The rocks this place is built on. The history of mining and fishing. One piece I don’t miss is the mosquitoes. That constant buzz is still in my ears on a quiet evening.

I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience this place and to have done so with my daughter and cousin. Hopefully some day again I will step foot in this incredible wilderness.

Leaving the island

Isle Royale–The Last Hike

In 2019 I spent six days on Isle Royale National Park with my youngest daughter and one of my cousins hiking the Feldtmann Loop. We had spent the night in Island Mine campground enjoying the only official campground completely in the woods in this National Park. All of the others are near water. Fortunately mosquitoes weren’t as fierce as we originally feared they would be making for a more enjoyable night by our campfire. As daylight crept into the tent and began to light up the forest we began to move around preparing for our final day on the trails. There was excitement about getting to Windigo where there is running water and also hesitation to begin this hike knowing our adventure was nearing a close. All of our gear was now packed up. The last thing we needed to do was cover ourselves in bug spray hoping to reduce the amount of blood stolen from us during the next seven miles to complete our journey.

Packing up camp and getting ready to hike

Doused in repellent, we hoisted our packs, grabbed the trekking poles and began our walk. Today’s path begins by a steep decline immediately followed by a steep incline to reach the next trail intersection leading to Windigo. Beginning the day with this type of terrain is a little difficult and demoralizing as you break out in a sweat right away with tiring legs quickly. As soon as we got to the intersection we dropped the packs and grabbed a snack along with water to recoup for a few minutes. This gave me time to set up the camera for trail pics to mark the beginning of our day surrounded by the beautiful forest. Regaining our legs and energy it was back on the trail knowing that it’s mostly downhill from here. Fortunately this is a relatively high point on Isle Royale.

Hitting the trail

We were moving at a fairly good clip by now after almost 30 miles of backpacking. Our bodies were adjusting to carrying all this weight allowing us to move faster and for longer stretches without a break. There were times we hiked at over 5 miles per hour which was a very good pace for us on this journey. And that was near the end of the hike. Not while we were fresh starting out. I enjoy hiking but not as much as exploring the areas we hike to. That’s the part I like most about backpacking – relaxing and wandering around in an area taking my time to notice the pieces that make up that place. Unique insects, wildlife, plants, and rocks. It seems most hikers are always in a hurry to get on the trail with the goal of putting in as much mileage as they can each day. I do like seeing the places I go through but I miss so many of the details while on the trail. The hike from Island Mine to Windigo seemed too quiet with very little wildlife moving about.

On the trail

As we got closer to the end of the trail we encountered a group of hikers heading in the opposite direction. They said we were about a mile away as far as they could figure which was a great sound to our ears – almost there. Just another 20 minutes or so. Soon after they passed I looked at my phone, which was recording the hike, and saw we had closer to 2 miles left if my mileage was accurate. I didn’t really mind that they were off. I kind of knew we likely had more trail left than they indicated based on how long we’d been hiking. My expectation was to hike at 1.5 – 2.0 miles per hour (mph) including breaks which would take us 3 – 4 hours. In what seemed like no time at all we reached another trail intersection marking near the end of our journey. From here, we had hiked the trail on our last journey to Isle Royale National Park so it all should seem somewhat familiar. I was surprised to see we were moving at a pace of 2.6 mph with a top speed of over 5 mph which was close to the end of our hike. We arrived at the Washington Creek campground and immediately headed for the shelter we stayed at the last time we were here in 2012. Fortunately it was open and we quickly set up camp for the last time. Just then a loud splashing was coming from the water right in front of us. A moose had come to welcome us to Windigo (top photo)!

At the shelter in Windigo

Isle Royale–Headed to Island Mine

Last summer my daughter Kris, cousin Chad, and I went to Isle Royale on a backpacking adventure. I’ve written posts on the first part of that trip from Windigo to Feldtmann Lake and onto Siskiwit Bay previously. This is a continuation of our experience on the island.

After a full day of resting and enjoying the area around Siskiwit Bay it was once again time to pull on our packs and head out. The destination was Island Mine Campground which was only 4 1/2 miles away but we decided to get an early start to the day. Mosquitoes could be bad there and if that’s the case we wanted enough time to continue hiking on towards Windigo. Camping in a mosquito infested area is not that fun as the safest place is inside a tent after killing whatever insect followed inside. Spending an afternoon swatting these pests was not our idea of fun so we wanted to give ourselves the opportunity to keep going in daylight if necessary. If we hiked at our average pace we should be there in 3 hours, 4 if we really take our time. That would still give us enough time to continue the 6 1/2 miles to Windigo and arrive before dark.

A fresh wolf print in the sand

The first two miles of the hike are along the shore of Siskiwit Bay. Half of those two miles are along the beach. While navigating the beach and trying to stay dry from waves washing up on shore, we came across fresh wolf prints in the sand. This must have been the wolf cry we heard the night before. These were recent because we had walked this same beach the day before and there were no wolf tracks in the sand at that time. By this time we had seen everything but a wolf itself. There was a kill and scat on the way to Siskiwit Bay, a howl in the night, and now the tracks. Seeing an actual wolf would have been amazing but to see all of these signs and hear one was more than I expected so I was quite satisfied just to know they were near.

On the trail towards Island Mine Campground

Making our way around the bay, we came to a place with a sharp left turn. This will be the last view of Lake Superior for the next day as our next campsite will be in the middle of the Island. The trail slowly begins to ascend as we moved inland and the mosquitoes seem all to happy to welcome us back to the woods. Dowsing ourselves in bug spray, these irritating pests added motivation to keep moving with their constant hum as they searched for any little spot without repellant on it to steal blood. After seeing so many moose near the previous camp sites, we were always on the lookout for one that may pose danger on the trail. This can be a challenge because you also have to keep your eyes on the trail lest a rock or root jump up from the ground and trip you. Falling on the trail with all of that extra weight on your back is a good way to get the air knocked out of you or twist your ankle. Not something we wanted to experience during this adventure.

An old mine shaft or storage area

It seemed like a very short time, but we had hiked for a couple of hours when we came upon the abandoned mine this area is labeled after. Large piles of tailings highlight the entrance with few plants covering them even after a century of closing. Walking over these first piles you begin to see equipment left here from a long time ago. In one are there was something built that could have been a mine shaft or storage facility which you can see in the photo above. Many of the pieces have been weathered over the years bringing a further authenticity to this historic site. We spent nearly an hour exploring this old operation imagining how things were done from the placement of the equipment, tailings, and excavation locations. It was fun to be able to take our time looking over this site and imagine the people and how they worked here, even for a short time wondering if this would have been something I would have enjoyed doing back in the day.

Some old equipment abandoned at Island Mine

With a little under a mile to go, we got back on the trail heading towards the campsite a little under a mile away. The remaining hike continued through a mature forest of maples, firs, and aspen up and down hills. What a sight this area must be in the fall as the trees explode in reds, oranges, and yellows preparing for winter. Eventually we came to a creek crossing with a steep hill to climb. The hill would be a bit of a challenge anyway but with all of our extra weight it was even more daunting.  With the aid of small trees to help with the climb we made it to the top and saw the sign laying out the campsites. We’re already here we thought? And at the same time had a sigh of relief to be able to pull the packs off and set up camp. We were the only ones at this campsite, for now. Before getting too much pulled out of our packs we took a little time to feel out the bug situation. How bad were the mosquitoes? Do we continue on to Windigo or are they tolerable enough that we can stay as planned?

Settling in at camp

There really weren’t many mosquitoes in this location and water was available a short distance away so we decided to spend the night in the only campsite on Isle Royale that isn’t near water. And one of the few that allow fires. The tent was excavated from a backpack and quickly set up with sleeping bags and pillows and most of our gear stored for the night. We gathered wood to start a fire and began cooking our main meal of the day. While hiking the meals consist of trail bars, trail mix, and whatever else is in a bag for snacking but when in camp we cook something more substantial to aid in recovering from a strenuous journey on the trail. While eating, the quietness of the woods begins to settle in and you realize you’re alone as no other hikers had come through while we’ve been in camp. We could yell at the top of our lungs and no one would be able to hear us. It was possible the closest people to us were more than 4 miles away. Both comforting and disturbing! Thoughts quickly shifted to our time together in this beautiful place as we have just one more hike to bring this incredible adventure to an end.

Enjoying a rare fire on Isle Royale

Previous posts of this trip:

A Return to Isle Royale

Independence Day on Isle Royale

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay part II

Isle Royale–Enjoying a Day at Siskiwit Bay

Isle Royale – A Moose Close Up and Personal

Isle Royale – A Moose Close Up and Personal

A day after hiking into Siskiwit Bay I wanted to back track on the trail we came in on the day before. We passed a beautiful meadow in full bloom that I wanted to take a few photos of. On the way I was talking with my cousin, who was also coming with, and noticed something unusual out of the corner of my eye. There was a line of trees to our right. Studying this cluster of trees I saw something move on the other side of them. It turned out to be a bull moose grazing. We stopped to watch it for awhile. A couple of other hikers appeared on the trail at this moment stopping in there tracks wondering what we were looking at. After spotting the moose they watched until it laid down in the trees and then they continued on. We decided to move on also and see if we could locate the moose on our way back.

A meadow full of flowers

Wondering around the meadow, all that was missing was a nice blue sky with a few soft, white clouds passing by. Unfortunately there were more clouds than sun making the meadow less spectacular but still beautiful. We spent about 20 minutes taking pictures and decided to head back towards our shelter. On the way back I headed towards the trees where the moose was earlier in hopes of being able to find it in a more photogenic place. As I was nearing the trees my cousin began to yell in a hushed voice “He’s still there!” I immediately stopped, looked up and spotted him close to where we left him but he was standing now. Watching him again he was just following the tree line away from us while foraging for leaves along the way.

Walking by and something seemed out of place

I decided to quickly walk down the trail trying to get ahead of this moose. There was a clearing in the trees and if he continued to move in the same direction, would give me an opportunity for a nice shot. Successfully moving into position, I crouched down near a clump of trees and got my camera ready. My cousin continued down the trail and found another spot to potentially photograph the moose also. In a matter of minutes the moose was nearing the opening as I was hoping for. I began to shoot away and enjoyed watching as the moose lingered near this opening in the trees. He seemed to be continuing on near the tree line but suddenly stopped. I could see his ears now above his head pointed towards my cousin. I could hear my cousin shifting from time to time and the moose seemed to be able to hear it also.

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Now the moose backed up and looked back and forth through the opening in the trees which began to make me nervous and excited at the same time. It provided a nice opportunity to  get some close up photos of a full sized bull moose but I’m feeling in the way of where the moose may want to go. After glancing my way the moose turned once again towards his original direction bringing a small sigh of relief. I was now ready for the moose to continue on allowing me to exit without a confrontation being quite sure which one of us would win in a direct confrontation. The odds were not in my favor. A few steps towards the trees and the moose stopped again and paused with ears pinned forward.

He stopped and turned my way

Once again the moose retreated a few steps and turn towards me. Only this time he took more steps in my direction causing my heartbeat to pick up. A thrilling and unnerving situation to be in. I continued to take advantage while I could and photograph the moose. My camera was on manual focus in order to minimize the noise as I snapped pictures. This monstrous animal continued to move in my direction heading straight for me. At this point I stopped focusing my lens in order to keep as still as possible hoping the approaching moose wouldn’t notice I was there. As the moose got closer and closer I was trying to figure out my escape plan. What are my chances if I play ring around the trees with this large animal? Just a few lengths away, I snapped one last photo before this adult bull moose turned feet from me and ran around the clump of trees I was crouching behind.

Too close and still moving towards me

Breathing a sigh of relief I realized I had been holding my breath for some time now in an effort to remain still as the moose worked his way towards me. It took me a few seconds to regain enough strength in my legs to stand up and begin to walk towards my cousin. Turning around to look back at where I was and where the moose traveled, I wanted to figure out just how close it was. Fortunately the moose’s footprints were still in the grass allowing me to track exactly where it went. In the picture below, there’s a clump of trees just to the right of the trail with a downed tree in front of it. I was right next to this clump near the trail. The moose came close to the other side of that clump wanting to exit the forest on this side. Stepping off his closest point to me, I measured about 15 feet between me and the moose before it changed direction. WAY TOO CLOSE! Fortunate for me there was no incident. My adrenaline started pumping at this wild experience. Later that day I wondered, “did the moose also sigh relief believing it almost got killed?”

Where I was crouching down photographing from

Isle Royale–Enjoying a Day at Siskiwit Bay

With the weather forecast calling for dry days ahead, we had some time to stay at Siskiwit Bay and explore. We had built in a rain day to our schedule which it looked like we would not need so we decided a day to recover from the previous hikes would be nice. This is one of the campgrounds on Isle Royale where both hikers and boaters are able to share it. Typically those entering the bay by boat sleep in the boat but disembark for meals and to just walk around after being confined to their boat for an extended period of time. We were told it’s often full of boats as this is a nice overnight shelter from the higher waves and storms that can produce treacherous waves on Lake Superior. There were only a couple of boats the previous night and no other hikers so it was pretty quiet at this campground. As the other people finished getting ready for the day and departed the docks we were all alone to enjoy this beautiful place.

A red fox came to greet us for the day

As the sun continued to climb from the horizon we decided it was probably time to climb out of our warm sleeping bags after a night of listening to moose meander by crunching loudly on sticks as they ate. Often the first thing to be done each day is use the outhouse. After that it’s replenish our water supply. Grabbing the collection bag we headed down to the water for a refill of cold Lake Superior water. Soon after reaching the waters edge I happened to turn around and saw we were not alone. A little red fox and followed us and was now just observing from the trail. Once it was clear we weren’t offering any nourishment, the fox continued exploring the docks for anything the boaters may have left. With no success the fox made its way elsewhere and we returned to our shelter with a full bag of water needing to be filtered.

Squirrel climbing an old Moose antler

While the water ran through our gravity fed filter we began searching our food supply for breakfast. As we began to eat our morning meal, the resident squirrel appeared. Each campsite has at least one of these for entertainment and a little company. They’re very good at climbing all over bringing much appreciated entertainment bordering almost on annoying at times as you have to watch you’re stuff. We became a little concerned as the squirrel began to show too much interest in our water filter and pouches and chased it off until we could move it to a little more secure spot. A leak in our pouch would not be a good thing for the rest of the adventure.

 

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With the first meal of the day finished it was on to our next item planned for the day. When we arrived on the Island rangers had said our exit from Siskiwit Bay may be a bit wet as beavers had been altering where the water was running creating new marshy areas and with a lot of rain earlier this season things may be a bit difficult. So we wanted to explore the trail a little without our packs on to find the best route ahead of time. Also this gave us a chance to see some other parts of the shore wrapping around the bay. Walking back towards the hiking trail we were enjoying the beautiful morning and all of the flowers in bloom. Thankfully mosquitoes were not much of an issue at the moment. Continuing on the trail towards Island Mine Campground we came across some wetter trail but managed to find relatively easy ways around it. Feeling confident in our next days trail, we walked on the beach taking in the sights around us.

Wild Iris blooming

There were many spring plants in bloom including Irises and roses to enjoy along with the waves from Lake Superior hitting the sandy shoreline. We were beginning to feel pangs of hunger again and decided to meander back towards the shelter for lunch. While cooking a hot meal to enjoy a Snowshoe Hare appeared. Expecting it to continue on, we were surprised when it just stayed near a shrub until most of us went into the shelter to grab plates and utensils to eat with. With only my daughter still out by the table the hare began bouncing closer. She grabbed the camera which was fortunately sitting on the table and snapped a few pictures of our visitor. Continuing to move closer I just stood and watched from the shelter. Now almost sitting on my daughters feet, she was enjoying her new furry friend wondering if she could reach down and pet it. Knowing better she just stayed still and continued taking pictures until the bunny hope off into the woods. It was beautiful with mottled black and brown fur dressed in its summer colors. With our furry visitor gone we returned to lunch.

Snowshoe Hare in its summer colors

Once lunch was put away and the dishes washed it was time for a little R & R. With a chance to reflect on the past few days and everything it took for all of us to be in this place at this time I was just really grateful how well it was working out and thankful for the time with my cousin and youngest daughter. She had been hesitant to go backpacking feeling uncertain of her abilities so to be able to share this experience with her was something I will always cherish. With a little rest it was time to accomplish one other thing I wanted to do with this day and that was back track a little of yesterdays trail to photograph the meadows full of flowers. Unfortunately clouds had overtaken the blue sky making the meadow pictures less interesting but that’s something I have little control over.

 

Meadow in full bloom

On the way to the meadows I turned to say something to my cousin who was accompanying me when something unusual caught my eye. Something didn’t look quite right among this grouping of trees but I didn’t know what it was immediately. Studying the trees for a few seconds I realized I saw the light brown of antlers. It was a bull moose standing there. We watched for a short time as he went on his way chomping off leaves as he went and so we continued on our track more comfortable that the moose wasn’t coming toward us. It was in this area that we met the first hikers of the day headed to Siskiwit Bay. We exchanged a few words before they continued on their way after watching the moose briefly. Arriving in the portion of meadows I wanted to photograph I began to try different compositions to capture the beauty sitting before us. What were all of these flowers? There were yellow, orange, pink, white, and purple all blended together to create a place that could only appear in a dream were you’re laying down among all these flowers watching the clouds move across a deep blue sky. All we were missing was the deep blue sky. We decided to head back towards camp for the night to make another meal before crashing in preparation for the next days hike. It was at this point we had a confrontation with the moose from earlier. A story for another post!

A bull moose wandering through the woods

We made it back to camp, enjoyed another warm meal and decided this day would not be complete without a campfire. There’s one fire pit for the entire camp to share. We gathered some dried wood from the beach and from under trees in the area and created a nice fire. A few boats had entered the bay and docked for the night and were finishing up their evening meal after fishing for the day. Once darkness set in they came over and joined us at the fire as we exchanged stories of Isle Royale. As the night grew they began to offer us freshly cooked pizza and a few beers. Knowing we needed to remain hydrated we declined the beer and continued to drink our water while enjoying pizza at the camp fire. An unexpected treat for us! Through the darkness we could make out the call of loons from across the lake letting us know we were in the Northland. These calls turned into distressed sounds. Must be moose getting too close to the loons. I witnessed this a few morning earlier when a moose swam too close to a loon. All of a sudden there was a different sound it was similar to the loon call but ended differently. Discussing this difference with our new camp fire friends we realized the last call we heard was a young wolf. Probably one of the new wolves moved to the island that winter. One call was all we heard and then everything was quiet again. Eventually we said goodnight and headed for our sleeping bags knowing the next day could become very long depending on how far we ended up backpacking. About to drift off we could hear something outside our shelter. Yep, a couple of moose crunching on leaves and sticks bidding goodnight to another great day on Isle Royale.

Ending the day by a fire

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay part II

After a short time, making our way through the swampy landscape near our campsite  on this beautiful summer day, we began a steep climb onto the second highest ridge on Isle Royale. Fortunately there were stairs made from stones to assist in this steep climb. At least this climb is near the beginning for us while we have most of our energy. Finally reaching the end of this climb we removed the backpacks, grabbed some water, and caught our breath before venturing on. The trail continues to climb from this point but at a much more gradual ascent. In no time at all, at least that’s how it seemed, we were on top of the ridge looking over Feldtmann Lake. We had reached the other end of the lake which was about two miles of our journey. It was another beautiful view of this part of Isle Royale. This seemed like a nice place to once again remove this weight from our backs and take a short break enjoying this place we’re at. After some time we hefted our packs onto our backs again ready for the trail once again. I looked at my camera and noticed it seemed to be broken and missing some pieces. By some luck I was able to find the missing pieces after searching for several minutes and snap them back onto the camera. Nothing was broken. What a relief! We shoved off once again.

Looking back at Feldtmann Lake from the fire tower

The trail winding back and forth through trees and meadows. It was warming up now and the mosquitoes began moving to find their meals hidden beneath the skin in our arms, legs, and face. It was time to apply insect repellant which helped a lot but did not stop all of the mosquitoes from the sweet taste or our blood.  Marching on through the woods, the trees began to get less and less as we started to climb once again. Going around a corner a fire tower came into view. What a relief! This marks the halfway point of our day’s adventure. This seemed like a nice place to rest for awhile and grab some food and water. After sitting and regaining some of our energy we climbed the many stairs to the top of this tower. Seeing where we had come from on one side and examining the area we were headed put our journey into perspective. Most of our climbing appeared to be done with mostly downhill and flat trails ahead. A bright spot as the soreness in our legs and backs continued to remind us how heavy our packs were. Sitting awhile longer trying to motivate ourselves, we finally heaved the packs up onto our backs and began the descent towards Siskiwit Bay.

Crossing a creek

This part of the journey continued on through forests with a few swamps mixed in where beavers had damned creeks to create small pools above the trail. Mosquitoes obviously thrive in these as they braved our repellant to steal whatever blood they could. At one of these mucky areas there was a stench of something dead. Nearby were the remains of a beaver which looked like it had been killed by a wolf. We had been told of a few of these signs that wolves were nearby the day before from others traveling over this trail. To see a wolf is a rare sight on the island but does occasionally happen. As the trail once again turned downward into the trees, there was a creek to cross. Fortunately a large tree had fallen across making a path over the moving water without having to get wet. From here we continued down through the mosquito filled forest making our way to dryer soil.Entering the meadows near Siskitwit Bay

About halfway between the fire tower and our next campsite the trail reached a valley making travel a little easier on flat ground. The only challenge now was the Thimbleberry bushes continually grabbing at us with stiff, sharp branches which hid the occasional rock or tree root from which to trip over. Continuing through these Thimbleberry bushes for several miles they eventually end with a mix of trees and meadows filled with all sorts of plants displaying their colorful flowers. It’s been warm under the blazing summer sun with little to no breeze since leaving the fire tower. As we continue hiking through these meadows, a cool breeze starts to make its way into the trees reached our sweat soaked faces. We have to be close! That cool air must be blowing off of Lake Superior. A short distance later there was the sign with the trademark metal map of the campgrounds nearby. We’ve made it! Dropping my pack I continue on exploring the campground to find which spot we’re going to spend the next couple of nights at. Looking over each tent site and shelter I realize we’re the first ones to camp and currently the only ones here. We chose which shelter we wanted to sleep and set our stuff down. The first priority was to filter water. While doing so we soaked our sore feet in the cold waters of Lake Superior relieving our burning ankles after hiking near 11 miles with a lot of weight strapped to our backs. We could only keep them in the 45 degree water for a few minutes before they turned blue and became numb. It was better than soaking in an ice bath. The rest of the day involved relaxing, setting up camp, and a little exploring before ending this day with an amazing sunset. The best sunset during our time on this beautiful island!

Ending a day of hiking with an amazing sunset

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay

There’s a scratching noise near the corner of our tent that welcomes me back to consciousness after a nice sleep. What is that? I wonder. Listening a bit more before moving I hear it again. It must be some kind of rodent so I reach over to the edge of the tent and knock on it a few times. The sound goes away. Being a little more alert now the nerves start to enter. Today is our longest day on the trail of this entire adventure. The listed mileage is over 10 miles. I’ve never gone that far before with a heavy backpack on. How will we all do? Have we recovered enough from hiking into Feldtmann Lake? Will my cousins ankle hold up? He injured it falling off a roof several years ago. I know it will be painful for him but will it be manageable? How will my daughter do? She’s been nervous about being the weakest link and holding us back ever since deciding to come back to Isle Royale. I’m confident she’ll do well but she doesn’t seem to be enjoying the island as much as the last time she was here. These thoughts continue to cycle through my mind for awhile before being interrupted by splashing out in the lake. A Moose….

Waking up to a moose

I decide to get up and grab the camera. Watching the moose, if that’s actually what’s making the noise, is what motivates me to begin moving but the camera is for capturing what I hope will be a beautiful sunset. Reaching the shoreline I can see a young bull moose a short distance down the shoreline walking around in the water in search of food in the dim light. Sunrise is at least a half an hour away yet. I slowly attach the camera to it’s tripod because it’s too dark for hand holding and getting a sharp photo. Trying not to disturb the moose while I’m doing this which was successful. After a few minutes the moose begins to swim across the lake all the time shifting his ears listening for anything chasing it from behind or on the shore on the other side of Feldtmann Lake. Such a peaceful and beautiful way to start this day in early July. By the time the moose neared the shore, fog had rolled in making it almost disappear into the mist. The sun was nearing the horizon but the fog blowing in off of Lake Superior was now covering much of the sky. So much for my desired amazing sunrise this morning. Just at this time another moose came splashing into the water nearby looking for food. What an experience!

A foggy morning

From behind me I could hear rustling in the tent and then the zipper moving. My cousin was now making his way to the beach after hearing the moose. Pointing to where the large animal was we both sat and watched, snapping a few pictures every now and then, as it slowly walked further and further into the water. I headed back to the tent to let my daughter know there was a moose not far away and that it was almost time to start packing anyway. She was outside of the tent in a minute or so and all three of us were watching the moose until it was out of sight. Now time for some nourishment while stuffing all of our belongings into backpacks for a trip through the island. Within the next hour we were packed, refilled our water containers, and grabbed our hiking poles while munching on some protein bars for breakfast. The fog was disappearing which allowed the sun to penetrate the thick forest as we set off on a day of hiking.

Hiking on

Continued in part II……

Independence Day on Isle Royale

After the close encounter with moose the night before, it was nice to get back to camp and crawl into the sleeping bag for a night of much needed rest. Beginning to return to a conscious state, I eventually realize I’m hearing water splashing. Now more alert I open my eyes and realize this is Isle Royale and Feldtmann Lake is steps away from our tent. That must be a moose I’m hearing! I try to exit the tent as quietly as possible, grabbing my camera on the way out and take the trail out to the shores of the lake. There he is entering just a short distance down the shoreline walking in the opposite direction. Amazing to see this large, wild animal right there in front of me. I crouch next to a small shrub and just watch as the moose meanders towards deeper water, finding something to eat from time to time. Hoping to see at least one moose on this week long adventure and here it is only the second morning and my count is already at five. I know there are a lot of moose in this National Park, but to see that many in less than 24 hours seems almost surreal. Eventually this moose moves on and I turn my focus to other wildlife around.

A pair of loons on Lake Feldtmann

Off and on through the night and early morning hours I would hear the call of a loon. Relaxing near the shore, a pair of loons swim closer searching for breakfast and giving the occasional loon call echoing down the lake. While enjoying their company I realize it’s the 4th of July. Our plan was to stay put near Feldtmann Lake for the day and just enjoy the day. Maybe catching fireworks from Rainbow Cove at nightfall shot off from Grand Portage. We had a down day planned just in case weather did not cooperate at some point or we were to sore from the 9+ miles of hiking to get here from Windigo. Fortunately we felt relatively well and the forecast called for passing storms in the afternoon with clearer days after so we could spend the day leisurely exploring around Feldtmann Lake. As the loons moved out of sight I turned around to return to the camp sight beginning to feel my stomach beginning to growl. Before I could go just a few feet I noticed a dragonfly soaking up the warming sunlight. They are such interesting insects and eat mosquitoes which is a great benefit on this island.

A dragonfly warming in the morning sun

Eventually I return to the campsite and the others make their way out for the morning. Time to enjoy a warm treat today. Most days its just bars and dry cereal. Things we can eat while on the trail. After breakfast is over and our dishes are all cleaned up, we notice the other hikers have all left and we’re the only ones left. We decide to check out the other campsites and decide there’s one we would rather spend the next day at. The tent gets emptied and flattened so we can transfer everything a few sites down the trail and be right on the shore of Lake Feldtmann. One of the advantages of taking a day off from hiking. Once everything is set back up we decide to enjoy the view on this beautiful, sunny morning. Watching the water for awhile and we begin to see fish. There’s supposed to be Northern Pike in the lake. Then Kristen pulls one of her feet out of the water and there’s a leech attached. Bait? What can we do for a hook? Then I spot a lure stuck on a large stick under the water. I retrieved the lure and tried to save the fishing line attached without success. We took some of our rope, attached the lure adding the leech, and tossed it out. Unfortunately this wasn’t successful. No fresh fish for dinner tonight.

Relaxing by the lake

At one point a beaver would swim by at relatively close range and climb on shore just on the other side of our tent. A minute or so later it would return to the shoreline eating the leaves it just collected near our tent. They’re fun to watch close up but also a little unnerving. Their teeth as so big and sharp. They could clip through a bone with ease. Thankfully they really don’t want to attack humans so we could just watch them going back and forth in the lake without too much concern. I wasn’t sure how we would spend a down day. Would it move slow and boredom set in? Instead time was flying by and here it was lunchtime already. We prepared our Independence Day meal and enjoyed it in this amazing park. Afterwards we decided to wade in the shallow water near the campsite. The water felt great on our recovering feet from the hike the day before. Fish would swim just out of reach, including a few Northern Pike we’d heard about. Exploring the shoreline a little we looked at the vegetation moose seemed to graze on and could even see their hoof prints in the sandy bottom. After an hour in the water we decided to return to Rainbow Cove almost a mile away and take in the waves of Lake Superior while checking the western sky for rain and thunderstorms.

Up close with a beaver

Beaver eating breakfast

By this time clouds began to increase with some fog beginning to drift into Isle Royale. A crack of thunder could be heard off in the distance but there really didn’t appear to be any storms approaching. It must be moving around the island keeping us dry. We walked up and down the beach at Rainbow Cove for awhile just looking at the different stones and listening to the water splash against the rocky shore. Eventually we decided that fireworks probably would be covered by the clouds and fog and headed back to our campsite for the remainder of the night. As we got back there was once again a frenzy of hikers setting up their campsites after a long days hike. Several of them were disappointed as they tried to get to Feldtmann Lake early in order to get the best site but we were already there. A part of me felt a little bad because I understood their extra efforts to secure this beautiful spot only to have it already taken. The night began to overtake the day and we decided to head for our sleeping bags once again bringing an end to our Independence Day on Isle Royale National Park. Tomorrow would bring a 10+ mile hike further into the island.

Skipping rocks at Rainbow Cove

A Trip to Rainbow Cove

As our first day on Isle Royale was coming to a close we decided to take others advice and head to Rainbow Cove on the eastern edge of the island to watch the setting sun to the west out over Lake Superior. After hiking 9 miles with heavy packs on our backs, hiking nearly another mile might seem a little too ambitious. Surprisingly, after a little time sitting at camp, the soreness in my legs and back disappeared although the energy level was still low after a long day getting to the island and getting to Feldtmann Lake were we were camping for the night. This was probably the only chance to catch a sunset here so if we didn’t go we would miss the opportunity even though we were actually staying in this area for two nights. The next night clouds were expected to cover the sky with possible rain showers or even a thunderstorm so off to Rainbow Cove we went. Without all that weight resting on our shoulders it actually was a nice hike over beautiful terrain.

Something just doesn't seem quite right

Along the way we enjoyed all of the blooming flowers, smell, and scenery of the north country trapped in Lake Superior. At one point during a conversation I turned to look back at my cousin who was walking behind me and out of the corner of my eye, I noticed something didn’t seem quite right. Quickly looking back I realized we were being watched by a moose. I kept walking until there was a larger tree between me and this moose which was just standing there watching as we passed by. Now having a little protection, the question was to keep going as we were really too close to this animal or stop and watch and possibly capture a photo or two. Well, given the pictures above and below you can guess what we did. Fortunately this particular moose didn’t seem real interested in defending her area and just continued to watch us while we watched her back and snapped a few photos. While taking in this lucky encounter, another hiker came behind us. He stopped abruptly once he looked up and saw we were stopped, looking at something in the woods. I could tell when he realized what we were looking at by the surprised look on his face from being so close to this large animal. Moose have been know to be quiet aggressive and with their size can cause substantial harm so we didn’t stay too long. Besides, the sun would be nearing the horizon soon. Back to the trail.

A moose on the side of the trail

Eventually we made our way to Rainbow Cove and collapsed on the beach. What a great spot to just sit and relax, listening to the gentle waves wash up against the pebble filled shoreline as the sun continued it’s trek toward the horizon. After some time had passed and other hikers began to join us on the beach I decided I should try and capture a few photos since I did drag the camera and tripod all the way here. Wanting to just continue sitting and enjoy the surroundings, I knew I would regret it if I didn’t come back with some pictures to remind me of the experience. Picking up the camera I began to try a few different compositions but my energy wasn’t truly up to the task. There are a few shots that show just how beautiful this area is even still. The setting sun was blocked by several clouds so the colors I had hoped to see, and photograph, didn’t materialize like I’d hoped. It was a worthwhile adventure regardless.

Sunset at Rainbow Cove

As we were just about ready to work our way back, something appeared to be heading our way along the shoreline. As it approached we could tell it was another moose stopping to munch on some leaves while working its way up the beach. Now what do we do? The best thing to do when a moose is near is find a tree to stand next to and keep still. Here we are exposed on the beach. A moose is a much better swimmer than we are and would be able to out run us into the trees a short distance behind. With nowhere to really go we watched as the moose continued closer and closer. It seemed as though the moose didn’t really care about the National Park Service’s rules about how far to stay away from these animals as this one was clearly in violation of it. Finally, as it got uncomfortably close it heading back into the island. Unfortunately it happened to be close to the trail we needed to take back to our campsite. Waiting for about 10 minutes or so we figured it should be safe to head back as this moose should have moved far enough away from the trail. We were in luck!

Getting back on the trail there was no sight or sound of this large creature. Finding our pace towards camp, I walked past a large group of shrubs and immediately saw the moose again. It was facing away from us while continuing to eat until it saw me at the same time. In a moment it was turned towards me and charging. I quickly moved back behind the shrubs I’d passed and the moose stopped. Waiting another 5 minutes, my cousin decided to see if the moose had safely moved on. He slowly moved to the clearing away from these shrubs looking for the moose. It was still there facing the opposite direction eating. Again it turned quickly and charged a second time. Immediately he retreated behind the shrubs once again and the moose stopped just like before. Now I was getting concerned as it was getting dark and our flashlights were back at camp. We intended to be back before dark overtook Isle Royale. Who expected to be trapped by a moose this long? Another 10 minutes passed and we tried again. This time the moose was gone thankfully. I enjoy seeing these moose but not when one is being aggressive as night is approaching. With just a hint of light still in the air we made our way back to camp for the night and crawled into the tent. What an amazing first day on Isle Royale!

What do we do now?

Hiking to Feldtman Lake

And we’re off! The Feldtman Lake Trail is listed at just under 9 miles from Windigo and we have no real good idea how our group will perform. How many stops will we need? What pace can we maintain? Our goal is to get our camp set up before dark reaches the island. It was almost noon when we started and sunset was about 10pm on the island so ten hours to make it there. On our last Isle Royale adventure in 2012, we averaged 1.5 miles per hour. That was seven years ago though. If we can maintain that average we should be able to complete nine miles in six hours which would get us to the campground about 6pm. Plenty of time to get set up and cook food before the sun falls below Lake Superior.

The start of Feldtman Lake Trail

The first two miles of this adventure were familiar because on the first day of our last Isle Royale trip we explored the area to an overlook on this exact trail. I knew there was a fairly steep climb leading to the overlook for our first nice challenge. The overlook would be a good spot to rest with the packs off for a short time and let us know where we are for speed. Fortunately our energy was high and the trail was beautiful with plants at peak flower causing me to forget about the weight on my back from time to time. There were even a few different types of orchids in bloom which was really exciting to see. After the first mile we began to head up in elevation causing us to really become warm after shivering on the boat ride to the island. Now I get to see if all of my preparations to be physically ready paid off. There was a bit of a strain on my legs in this section of the trail and my breathing became quite labored just before reaching the summit but all in all I felt pretty good. Like I could make this hike reasonably well.

Spring flowers in full bloom along the trail

Reaching the overlook, I checked the time and saw our pace was at my expectations. And the nice part was the rest of the trail is downhill. Finding a spot to set our backpacks down, we grabbed a drink of water and admired the view (photo at the top of the post). After a few minutes of scanning the island from this high point we sat for a few minutes and found some food to keep our energy levels up for the remaining seven miles. Feeling good and a little anxious to see what lies ahead, we hefted our heavy packs back on top of our shoulders and continued on. There were a few ripe wild strawberries in the are so I  harvested a couple for a nice little fresh fruit on the trail. Quite tasty although barely the size of a pea. It would take a lot of these for a nice meal. Up on the ridge the temperature was estimated to be in the upper 70’s Fahrenheit so it was warm and we were now hiking in the sunlight.

One of the many obstacles on this trail

Thankfully the shade of trees arrived a short distance later helping to keep us cool. Although they also became obstacles from time to time which we happily overcame. A downed tree was a great place to lean against and take much of the backpack weight off of our shoulders from time to time revitalizing our legs and backs before continuing on. Over the course of the afternoon we would stop every couple of miles to remove the heavy weight being carried on our backs, grab something to eat quickly, and sip some water making sure to ration so there was enough until we could refill. About halfway to Feldtman Lake, the thimbleberry bushes began their attack. These are fairly tall bushes with stiff branches and large leaves which continually ate at our legs leaving behind some nice gouges for us to remember them by. As we continue to move we only encountered one other hiker headed towards Windigo and two hikers on their way to Feldtman Lake. They passed us during one of our breaks to regain the lead. We caught up to them again right at Feldtman Lake.

Our campsite at Feldtman Lake

I had decided it was time for another break and sat down briefly to find a little relief from my backpack as the weight was really causing soreness in my shoulders and lower back. Also I wanted our group to be rejoined to make sure everything was going ok. A few minutes passed and looking at a clock and miles already hiked told me there should only be a small portion left ahead. That was all the motivation I needed to put the pack back on knowing it should only be for another 20 minutes at the most. As it turned out, I turned a corner and saw the metal sign showing the location of all of the campsites. We had made it! Moving towards the campground, there was an open site but wasn’t right on the lake so we kept looking. There were a few others open but this first one we spotted seemed like the best remaining place to pitch our tent so we walked in the cleared area and set our backpacks down for the last time on this day. What an amazing feeling! It was like I was walking on air or had springs in my shoes without that thing attached weighing me down. And it was just after 6pm so there was plenty of time to enjoy camp yet.

The first moose sighting

A few minutes after setting down the packs and pulling out the tent, a moose was spotted not far away in Feldtman Lake. We headed to a nice viewing spot to take in some wildlife viewing and relax for a moment. I had hoped we would see a moose or two on this adventure and here one was to welcome us to our first camping spot. After a few minutes, the moose headed back into the woods so we returned to our evening chores of getting the tent set up with sleeping pads and sleeping bags. Once complete we began preparing our one hot meal of the day talking about that days adventures and what we wanted to do with the few remaining sunlit hours. A trip to Rainbow Cove was recommended by multiple people so that seemed like a good way to end our first day on Isle Royale.

Map of the days hike