Tag Archives: Adventures

Returning to Kilauea

While celebrating the New Year on the Big Island, one of the few things on our wish list was go back to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. On our last visit to this amazing park, it was just hours before a portion of the volcano wall collapsed causing a plume of smoke and ash to billow into the air. After that it began erupting in other places causing lots of destruction in its path and changing the volcano and island. This would be an amazing opportunity to see how much the volcano had changed during that time. During our first few nights on the island, the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park website warned that the eruption had paused. Since this was one of our intended things to do while here, we were disappointed and wondering if we would be able to see lava actively flowing. Our schedule remained flexible so we could adjust things around in the event lave began to flow once more. Just before going to bed halfway through our trip I checked the website. Lava had begun flowing once again earlier that day. Tomorrow we’ll drive across the island and explore an active volcano.

At the viewing area for Kilauea

About mid morning we climbed into our vehicle for the almost 2 hour drive from Kona to the National Park. Our goal was to be there at sunset to see the orange glow from lava filling into caldera so we started a little later in the morning. Once at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park we stopped at the visitors center, then drove to the overlook of the volcano. It was amazing to see how much larger the caldera had become since visiting 4 years earlier. Smoke was rising up this area but we couldn’t see any lava. It was a little disappointing to not be able to see any orange liquid oozing out from below the rock but it’s still an impressive view. I noticed what appeared to be people across the caldera walking to a different viewing area. Expecting it to be a relatively long hike and some people in our group being unable to walk that distance, I dismissed the thought of finding where the trailhead was for that. After examining the new caldera and signs showing the differences since this last eruption, we returned to the visitor’s center. I listened in to a Ranger talk about where to see the lava and what it takes to do so. He recommended returning very early in the morning when there are very few people at this viewing area they opened just weeks before. That wasn’t really an option for us since it’s such a long distance to drive so on to the next best option – joining hundreds of other people to witness sunset at the newly created viewing area.

Lava erupting from the caldera of Kilauea

A portion of our group opted for hiking the few miles to this overlook where you could actually see lava spewing from below the surface. In order to get a parking spot, we were advised to arrive in the area a couple of hours ahead of sunset. Once parked we spent a little time getting ready and those of us going to the viewing area began our hike. As it turned out, the hike was pretty easy as it was mostly using a paved road no longer in service. A short time later we were at the over look with daylight still presiding over the volcano and there it was. The orange glow of lava erupting. It was a surreal experience for me – very humbling to see with my own eyes. There were hundreds of other people also there so park rangers were trying to keep people rotating to the front for everyone to get a chance to see this natural wonder and it’s power to create the land we walk on. I spent some time photographing this awesome natural power, now understanding more why some many people are drawn to it. Respect is required of such a powerful force and has been shown through the centuries as so many have seen its destructive abilities allowing new life to emerge for many 100’s of years after. Eventually darkness fell over the volcano and the familiar orange glow was a vibrant, sole light source of the volcano. Watching the lava ebb and flow was so mesmerizing. Something I will remember for a very long time. With people waiting back at our vehicle, and a 2 hour drive ahead of us, it was time to depart this viewing area with memories and photographs. It was an incredible experience!

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Celebrating New Years Day

During the night I would wake to waves crashing on the shoreline and couldn’t wait for daylight to show the view. We arrived at our house during the dark and were unable to see much of the landscape on New Year’s Eve. The fireworks had settled down allowing a few hours of nice sleep. Opening my eyes once again, I looked towards the patio door and finally light was beginning to show through the door. I got up, as quietly as I could so others could continue to sleep, and went out on the patio to see waves rolling over the turquoise water. Soon I was joined by my cousin who was with us for this adventure. A few moments later my wife appeared. Happy New Year! we all agreed. It seemed to take a lot of work and effort to get here, but here was the reward.Early morning surfers out catching a few waves

Within a few minutes I spotted surfers paddling out to these nice waves for their morning ride. We watched as they waited out in the water for a good wave to roll in that they could catch eventually deciding on one they liked. They began to paddle quickly and soon were up on their board surfing the wave into shore and then doing it all over again.

The ocean had called long enough. A few minutes later it was out to the shore taking in the warm morning sun as it continued to rise over the island. I removed my shoes upon reaching the beach and began to feel this tropical place all around me. Bare feet in the sand below and waves continuing to crash on the shore. Are we still asleep and dreaming?

I had hoped to get in the water the night before without success. It was time now to get that first feel of the ocean. Heading towards the shoreline, saltwater eventually surround my feet. Expecting to wince a little at this first cool wave hitting my toes, I was surprised how warm the water felt. There was no shock or getting use to the temperature. I continued to wade in but only a short ways. My stomach was reminding me it was time to eat and I didn’t want to be wet while eating it.

Fish swimming around beautiful red urchins near shore

After a few minutes of walking in the water my cousin and I began exploring the shoreline. Much of the shoreline here is volcanic rock with only a few pockets of sand here and there. Looking in each groove and through the tide pools there were many critters moving about. Crabs would quickly seek shelter from our view but occasionally one would pose for a few moments for us to watch. Fish of different sizes and colors were swimming in the tide pools created by this rocky shoreline with the occasional red or black urchin attached to rocks for them to swim around. As we continued to explore, a Sea Turtle surprised me. A trip to Hawaii just would not seem complete with seeing one of these. This beautiful creature of the sea’s came over to wish us a Happy New Year before continuing on in its search for food. We returned the greeting and continued being mesmerized as waves rolled into the shoreline.

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Having gotten a taste of this beautiful place, it was time to return to the house for a quick shower and off to find breakfast. I was so grateful to be able to spend this New Year’s Day with my two daughters, wife, and other family members in these incredible surroundings. One last feel of the sand beneath my feet and it was back inside…at least for the moment.

Daylight brought the first view of the ocean in this New Year

Climbing Grand–Climbing Day

Waking up to the darkness on the mountain, there are other climbers moving around getting ready to hike out of camp. I begin to imagine what this day will be like and all the work put in to get here. All of those early mornings of getting up when I really didn’t want to for a run before heading to work. Running is not my thing but it was the best way I could think of for preparing for the altitude of these mountains. Putting training packs on for Saturday hikes to begin to acclimate our bodies to this extra weight. Exercising to build strength needed for climbing. What seemed like endless stairs with a backpack  that continued to get heavier and heavier as the climb got closer. Accumulating the needed gear over the past 9 months and using it so we would be more use to it in the mountain. This day is why I pushed through all of this preparation and here it is. Would it all be worth it? Was it enough? I couldn’t tell which was more dominate – my excitement to do this or my anxiety over preparedness. It didn’t matter now. The only thing that I needed to focus on was spending this experience with my family and keeping us all safe while trying to enjoy every piece I could. This may be the last opportunity to climb a mountain for me.

The day begins in the dark

The gear for this day was packed, my layers where on, and I was exiting my tent. The only light besides my headlamp were the houses residing over a mile below. Unfortunately it was cloudy so not even the stars where shining. Rain was forecast for later in the day capping how much time we had to climb. I was the first of our group to reach the main tent housing our kitchen here on the mountain. Water was being warmed for my tea and breakfast burritos being steamed for a little energy to tackle the rigorous trail ahead. A few minutes to use the outdoor bathroom and more of our group had arrived ready to go. We all grabbed something to drink, topped off our water bottles, and mentally prepared to achieve our goals for this day. Each of us had different goals and needed to work together to accomplish them. Our time had arrived to hoist the daypacks upon our shoulders and hit the trail. Every step required careful placement being illuminated only by the lights on our head. This first part was what I looked forward to least as it was maneuvering on loose rocks making up a gravel trail. Surprisingly we covered a large amount of ground and were at our first climbing point fairly quickly.

Sunrise from the saddle

We connected our ropes and one by one climbed up this first wall of stone. Once above this spot we noticed something floating through our beams of light. Was that snow? It was at this point I first realized how cold it was and that I was shivering. I really didn’t think much about being cold as I knew we would soon be warming up from the hard work yet to come. With all of our climbers off the ropes we continued on the trail to the saddle between Middle Teton and Grand where another base camp existed along with a ranger tent. Reaching this camp a short time later, we all agreed that the views here were incredible but so was the wind. That would be a little more miserable to deal with all of the time. Our base camp was better protected making the environment more enjoyable we determined. From here we continued on the trail as it continued steeply higher to a series of rock walls to the top. Keeping one foot in front of the other we arrived at larger boulders signaling the base of the peak for Grand.

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This marked the goal of some of our group and they had reached it as daylight continued to illuminate the landscape around us highlighting the path we had taken. After a few minutes of discussion we decided to split into two groups. One would continue the climb while the other made the journey to camp invigorated by reaching their objective on this morning. While I continued on with my cousin, each group kept in touch over radio so they could know how the other group was doing.

For me, the fun part of this adventure was about to begin. The trail steepened and boulder scrambling started putting my physical abilities to the test. Soon the scrambling was complete and it was time to put on the ropes for more serious rock climbing. This seemed like a good time to take off a layer or two as the sun was now shining and the temperatures rising.  I never knew until now how much I enjoy scaling rock walls. Maneuvering from hand hold to foot hold kept a huge smile on my face. Well, until I reached a spot requiring me to climb out, away from the mountain creating the sensation of going to fall off. While it took some time, we made it over this section with a big sigh of relief and continued up. There was no option in our minds of quitting and turning back at this point. Word had reached us that the other group was nearing camp by this time while they had heard we were continuing to climb.

On the climb

Every piece of the climb seemed easier after this as we successfully navigated these vertical rocks continuing to increase our elevation. I finally relaxed a little feeling great and that all of my work preparing was paying off. Breathing was easier than I expected and remembered from my climb on Longs Peak in Colorado. Higher and higher we climbed and I realized as I looked over at Middle Teton, we had reached an altitude above its’ peak. The only peak higher than we were now was Grand.

Word had come over the radio that the other group was now safely back in camp recovering and preparing for the descent the next day. Unfortunately time was not on our side now. It would be unlikely for us to reach the summit this day as we were about 30 minutes from the time we would need to turn around and head back towards camp before storms once again were predicted to engulf the area. Still we continued higher just enjoying the experience and the scenery surrounding us. By this time our other group was beginning to get a little nervous that something happened as they hadn’t heard anything from us for awhile. We were just trying to keep going and not in a great spot for communication to go through surrounded by stone walls.

Reaching a nice plateau, we decided this would be as far as we would go and took some time to sit and reflect on our surroundings and our climb that morning. We radioed back to the other group our location and the return back was about to begin. They sighed with a little relief hearing all was going well and we were ok.

Getting above Middle Teton

Taking some time to get a little to eat, something to drink, and taking a few photos from this place on the mountain, we heading back towards the ledge we had just climbed to get here. What seemed like just a few minutes earlier we climbed up this ledge and now we would begin our descent from here. The trip down always seems to be faster and in a short time we were making our way back over the rocks we climbed and were back at the saddle where we split into two groups.

In just over an hour we would be back in camp, finishing our day of climbing on Grand Teton. While we may not have made it all the way to the top of Grand, I felt fortunate to have this experience and share it with my daughters, cousin and his daughter. Adventures like this have a lasting impact for the rest of our lives and just getting this far is an achievement.

Back at camp a guide asked how our climb was. I responded with it being a great experience with lots of beautiful sights. We may have been the least able climbers on the mountain that day but at least we were on it doing what we could. I was glad to be reunited with our group and begin sharing this experience with each other at camp while grabbing some nourishment and rehydrating, waiting for storms that never formed.

Enjoying the views of the landscape around us

Climbing Grand–Training Day

It was Saturday morning, the day after hiking 7 miles and gaining around 5,000 feet in elevation. The rain and wind had been pounding at our tents for much of the night but now had settled down. This was to be our training day in the mountains with breakfast starting us off at 8am. We were all tired and quite stiff, unsure of how much energy our bodies still had for climbing activities but we were here and wanted to climb Grand. With this motivation we got dressed and collected near the Kitchen – a larger tent with a rounded roof for hot breakfast burritos to start the day. It was cloudy and cool but at least the rain wasn’t falling. For how long we weren’t sure as the forecast called for more storms to develop as the afternoon continued so we needed to take advantage of the dry morning.

Getting our climbing gear fitted and put on

The first step was getting climbing gear fitted and put on which included day packs, helmet, harness, and carabineers to attach ropes to. Everything we would bring with the next day for our main climb. My expectation for this day was to fit our gear and an introduction on how to use it including attaching ropes, terminology, and climbing techniques on rocks or boulders nearby. Once the gear was on and tightened correctly we headed for a few boulders just above us to begin to learn how to use and trust our approach shoes. These were new to all of us so I didn’t realize the bottoms of these shoes have different tread for different climbing uses. Our guide showed us what these different treads were for and then headed for a rock slab to put them to use. None of us were ready to work on this slab as it was still wet from rain the night before. There’s no way we would get up it without slipping and injuring something. After a lot of convincing from our trusted guides, we began to move up and down the slab using techniques and body position to move up and down this slab sticking to it with our rubber bottomed shoes even though it was wet. From here we moved on to a boulder which had a square corner and again used climbing techniques with body position to locate hand and foot holds which at first didn’t appear to be there. Amazing how we learned to move up and down this rock also!

About to attempt our first class 5 climb

Soon we were on a trail to the peaks in the top photo. Arriving at the base, our guides began to pull out ropes and remove a few layers of clothing in preparation for teaching us how to go up the mountain. Taking this lead, we also began to remove a few layers as we would begin working more and getting quite warm. At this time it was a good opportunity to drink some water and eat something. You burn a lot of calories while climbing and require more water to remain hydrated in the dry mountain air. In a few minutes we were all attached to ropes and instructed on the path to take up this steep rock. From a distance these peaks appear to be straight up and down and quite intimidating. Once you begin to study them up close you can often find paths using ledges and crevices and begin to figure out how to move towards the top. Again, trusting our guides, we tried to follow their paths and all worked together to locate places to put our hands and feet that were secure in order to push ourselves up the rock. Even though we were attached by ropes, none of us was interested in seeing how well they were holding us and relied solely on our hand and foot holds. I didn’t really expect to get into this level of training. It almost felt as though we were thrown right into some major mountaineering.

Getting near the top

In what seemed like a very short time we had climbed a significant distance and having fun doing it. I was so concerned the altitude would prevent me from climbing at a reasonable speed and was pleasantly shocked to find it wasn’t much of a factor in my ability to keep a good pace. Keep in mind were were above 11,000 feet. This wouldn’t seem all that difficult except we normally live at 1,000 feet in elevation. For those that haven’t experience higher altitudes before, this is a huge change and really affects getting adequate oxygen into your body. I’ve been told it’s a good comparison for people with asthma because it feels like you’re constantly gasping for air while exerting energy at this elevation. At least until you adjust to it.

Learning to trust the ropes and harnesses

Becoming more comfortable with our gear and climbing abilities, we moved up the rock reaching higher ledges with more spectacular views. As I was really starting to have a lot of fun I reached up for the next ledge to climb, bringing myself on top of it only to realize this was the summit. There was no where else to climb up. We sat on top enjoying the view of the mountains and valleys around us while other members of our group worked their way up. At first I couldn’t believe we did it and now I was amazed at how quickly we seemed to make it to the summit. Unfortunately it meant we were also done with this part of the training. I wanted to do more! As the rest of our group made it to the top, we began to make preparations for the descent.

Getting re-hooked back up to the mountain on different ropes, we were instructed that this was the part designed to learn how to trust our equipment. The guide told us to move towards the ledge and lean over putting all of our weight on the harness and ropes. For those of you who haven’t tried this, looking over a ledge that is essentially straight up and down for hundreds of feet below with nothing but sharp boulders to land on, putting all of your trust into a single rope is not easy. Eventually, while hanging out over this ledge, we managed to put our full weight on this single rope and began to repel down the mountain we had just climbed up.  Getting more comfortable repelling, it became fun to move down the rock quickly using less effort and soon we were back on the lowest ledge needing to hike to the next area on which to descend. In a short time we were back hiking towards camp reflecting on this mountaineering we had learned and achieved. What a fantastic experience which was now over all to quickly! It was time to rest up and re-energize for our main goal of climbing on Grand Teton the next day.

Successfully made it to the top of this one

Climbing Grand– The Hike Up

After several years of planning, our most challenging adventure yet had arrived – climbing Grand Teton. I shared this adventure with my two daughters along with a cousin and his daughter. We were all very nervous about whether or not we were physically able to do this but also excited for a chance to climb this challenging mountain. While it may not be as tall as many in Colorado, it’s every bit as demanding. If not more so. My biggest concern was the altitude and what effects it would have on everyone including myself. The last time I climbed a mountain (Longs Peak) I found I would begin to black out if I moved too fast at the higher elevations and I knew this time I would need to keep a good pace in order to be successful. My training had been more intense for this adventure so hopefully that would make a difference in my abilities at the top of the mountain.

On the Trail

We began our journey to our camping location about 8am uncertain about what was ahead of us besides 7 miles of up hill climbs in order to reach our camping destination. Leaving from the Lupine Meadows trailhead, the ground was flat but soon turned up. The first mile went by quickly and seemed rather tolerable. The second mile was more of the same keeping our pace at a nice clip towards our destination. Between here and mile three there was a surprise. A black bear was gorging on berries near the trail. It really didn’t appear to have much interest in us other than wanting us to continue moving on so it could eat in peace. We cautiously continued up the hill after watching this bear for a short time without incident. Several other hikers ahead and behind us did the same. The bear became a topic of conversation for a brief moment at camp with other climbers as it seemed to stay there for some time.

A bear near the trail feeding heavily

Over the next couple of miles we began to hike above the tree line where the terrain became more rocky but the incline was still manageable allowing us to continue moving higher. As the halfway point came and went, altitude began to show its impact as our breathing became more labored and our legs became more fatigued. The scenery was a great distraction of these discomforts with beautiful mountain vistas surrounding us and water running downhill from the melting glaciers above filling the air with calming sounds. Middle Teton could be seen above us now but no sign of our destination near Grand Teton. After a short break we began to climb large boulders which I enjoyed more than the typical trail. These didn’t last long and soon we had reached Lupine Meadows which was incredibly beautiful Mountain scene with flowers, waterfalls, and Grand Teton in the background.

The trail begins to get more rocky as we hike higher up

Pulling off the trail and finding a boulder to sit on, we took a break to eat and re-fill water containers from the mountain stream after filtering it first. I could have stayed here for hours just enjoying the sights and sounds but time was going by quickly and clouds were beginning to build. Storms appeared to be on there way and staying dry was preferred for the last portion of our trail. Repacking our food into our backpacks, we once again grabbed trekking poles and continued putting one foot in front of the other. Only a few miles left to go. Unknown to us at this moment but our trail was about to get quite a bit more difficult as the hills steepened. Our incline became more difficult, the altitude was having a more intense effect on our breathing, and the clouds continued to get darker motivating us to keep hiking up this hill towards camp. Our legs were really wearing out now feeling as though the could just collapse. We had to stop to catch our breath and regain some balance often going up these last few miles but tried to keep moving as much as possible. Finally another mile had passed with only one more to go. Could we make it the rest of the way up this steep hill?

Scenery continues to get more spectacular as the hike progresses

I began to accept that we were going to get wet as thunder could be heard behind us. While this provided some motivation, was it enough to keep our weary bodies moving? Still climbing one step at a time, we continued on our journey wondering if this will ever come to an end. Continuing to slowly move higher, it felt like a snail would move faster up these switchbacks. Each breath became precious trying push energy into our legs which now seemed to have the consistency of Jello. I noticed a few drops starting to fall and tried to climb faster on a seemingly endless trail. When if felt as though our trail would not end it leveled out. Finally some mercy for our legs! A short hike later and we had reached our destination of Corbet High Camp. Thankfully the tents were already set up so all we had to do was race inside with our packs to stay mostly dry. The last hiker entered their tent and zipped it shut before the storms, which had chased us up the mountain, let loose.

The mountain had been kind to us allowing us to reach shelter just in time. We collapsed onto the sleeping mats allowing our aching legs to begin their recovery while bright flashes penetrated the tent walls followed by the loud, humbling cracks of thunder and intense rain smashing all around us outside. Filled with relief for getting here we began to feel the satisfaction of accomplishment for pushing so hard on this difficult trail. But what have we gotten ourselves into?

The most challenging part of the hike is at the end

A Little R & R in Northern Wisconsin

The summer solstice had arrived. A day I’ve come to celebrate when possible by heading to a place to camp and take in the sunrise and sunset trying to enjoy the entire day outdoors enjoying the most sunlight of any day of the year. It can be a bit challenging with sunrise at 5:30am and sunset lasting until 9pm. This year it occurred on Father’s Day as well so I started out the morning traveling to see my dad for breakfast not being able to see the sun rise as clouds covered the skies. Just before lunch I said goodbye to my father wishing him one last Happy Fathers Day and continued my journey to Northern Wisconsin where I would meet up with an old college friend for a few days of camping at Lost Lake. A place we had met a few times before and were beginning to get very familiar with. Arriving in the late afternoon, rain was falling. According to my friend, it had begun to fall 45 minutes earlier. It would last throughout most of the night hiding the setting sun. We cooked our evening meal under the cover of umbrella and moved indoors to eat. This was the first time I could remember that clouds covered the sky during both the sunrise and sunset for the summer solstice. Certainly a unique year but I still enjoyed this solstice.

A boreal forest arrangement

Getting up the next morning rain was falling periodically but slowing down. Once I could no longer her drops hitting the trees above I decided to venture outside to the water soaked landscape. The wind was blowing quite strongly now and continued that way throughout much of the day. This seemed like a good day to explore more of the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest by car. We needed a few supplies also so found a store to get our items. Along the way there was an ice cream shop which looked very appetizing. With so many flavors to choose from it took extra time before deciding on the perfect one to sit and enjoy. This also seemed like a great opportunity to explore the National Forest Visitor’s Center to learn more about the area we were in. Mid afternoon had quickly moved upon us as we began to work our way back to Lost Lake. Along the way there was a State Natural Area which we decided to explore some. This was a tree filled area blocking much of the wind making it more comfortable as we wandered around ferns and fallen logs to see what plants may be growing here. We found mint, irises in peak bloom, and birch covered in beautiful mosses and lichens typical of a northern forest. Before wandering too far and getting lost we headed back towards the car making our way to the lake and cabin to begin a campfire and our evening meal. I couldn’t believe how quickly the day went for this first day of summer. Not that it felt anything like summer with temperatures in the 50’s F with strong winds blowing out of the north requiring sweatshirts and jackets.

Wild Iris in bloom

The next morning was met with calmer winds and colder temperatures. Thankfully I had brought a heater with expecting some cold which kept the cabin at a more comfortable sleeping temperature. Opening the door I was hit by a cold blast as I entered the forested campground. Quickly a cup of hot tea was brewed to help take some of this chill out of the air. With less wind I decided to try a little fishing with some success but not enough to make a meal out of. Soon I returned to the cabin to cook a warm meal. This needed to be eaten quickly as the cold swiftly stole any heat. With a full stomach we began driving the gravel roads of this National Forest in search of a place out of the increasing wind to try our luck at fishing. There was some luck but nothing extremely exciting. After awhile I modified my fishing line and attached my GoPro camera to it. The water was pretty clear so I decided to see how tossing a camera in the water would work. This became quite fun flinging the little action camera out into the lake and bringing it back. Unfortunately the video really wasn’t very good or interesting but it was fun to try. Having had our fill of fishing we headed back to our shelter to begin a campfire and cook a stew over the open flame. As darkness began to arrive, a sliver of sun shown through the clouds. I grabbed the camera in hopes of a beautiful sunset but all I could capture was trickle of pinks near the horizon which reflected beautifully in the water.

Sun rising over the calm lake with a light fog floating across

On our last morning at Lost Lake, I got up for the sunrise knowing the clouds were beginning to break up overnight and went to the shore to enjoy the calm water. There was alight fog floating over the water making this a beautiful beginning to this day. As I gazed over the lake I watched and Eagle hovering and soaring to the waters surface looking to snag its first meal of the day. Soon after an Osprey smashed into the water quickly retreating with its morning meal. Life was returning as the sun continued it’s steady journey across the sky. I wandered along the shoreline taking in the early morning landscape with the fog covered water and irises in bloom before heading back to our cabin to grab a pole and get in a few more casts. Again I had a little success but then had to pack up as it would be along day of driving. Before exiting the National Forest I decided to make a quick stop at a wildlife viewing location to discover this small, secluded pond created by an earthen dam built over a small creek. It was a beautiful spot that I’ll have to come back to if I ever return to this area again. Back on the road I continued towards busier roads signaling my return home. It wasn’t the camping experience I was hoping for but I did enjoy the time to catch up on some rest and spend a little time out in nature.

Secluded Lake perfect for enjoying some R & R

Spring Break Road Trip

Several months ago, while looking over the calendar, we noticed our girls had time off for Spring Break about the same time. This seemed like something we should take advantage of since who knows how many more times we’ll have the opportunity for a family Spring Break adventure. The plan was to go for an extended weekend somewhere within 8 hours of our house. Weather would help dictated which direction we went. As the week arrived we looked at a few different options and decided going to Badlands National Park seemed like the best option during Spring Break. We would leave Wednesday morning and return Saturday afternoon. Tuesday afternoon I checked in with a family friend who has some property in Central Michigan and found out they would be there for the week. Originally they were expecting to be gone a few days before Spring Break but things had changed a little. Talking with the family we decided a change in plans was in order and that the next morning we should head east instead. Tuesday night the car was packed and ready to go to Michigan.

A foggy morning driving through Wisconsin

Wednesday morning we were on the road by 5:30am eagerly anticipating our Spring Break adventure. It was a rainy start to the day which was expected to follow us throughout the drive east. As we got into Wisconsin, daylight began to fill the sky. With increasing brightness we could see fog filling many of the valleys providing interesting scenery to start the day. By lunchtime we neared the Wisconsin-Michigan boarder stopping to stretch our legs and getting something to eat. Returning to the road we soon crossed into a different time zone where we lost an hour entering Michigan and began to follow the top of Lake Michigan. The sights in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan kept us entertained with the road trip beginning to get long and going on hour number 8. Another hour and we were at the Mackinaw Bridge.

Driving over the Mackinaw Bridge

We had heard about this bridge from several other people but had never seen it ourselves. It’s certainly an engineering feet to see and drive on especially in an area that freezes during the winter. It’s interesting to drive on as one lane is metal grates which feel weird to drive over while the other is a cement deck. Crossing the bridge, we made another stop to explore Mackinaw Island which was mostly closed down since it’s more of a tourist place and it was too early for them to be open. Over the next few hours we continued south now that we were on the east side of Lake Michigan arriving at our destination. A little town on the shores of Lake Michigan in the central part of the state. It was a nice drive but we were happy to get out of the car. As a bonus, it was partly sunny with temperatures in the mid 70’s.

Our little town destination on the shores of Lake Michigan

Good Bye 2020!

Many people around the world celebrated New Year’s Eve and Day. It felt more of a celebration for surviving 2020 instead of ushering a new year. The past year got pretty dark at times with a pandemic, unlike anything people can remember, closing down most of our activities and events. While I’ve heard more times than I care to think about how people dismissed the year as though it never existed, I have a slightly different view. Wishing away a year of my life is not something I want to do. There are only a limited number of years for any of us and I want to enjoy as many of them as I can. Yes, there has been a lot of stress and anxiety but there were some pretty great moments too. Adventures were fewer and farther in between and occurred closer to home but they still were available creating lifelong memories.

Snowmobiling in Northern Michigan

Looking over my post at the beginning of January highlighting the things I wanted to do this year, surprisingly most of those were accomplished. A snowmobile adventure was planned soon after writing that post taking me with my cousin to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan to ride some incredible trails. It was iffy for a few weeks leading up to this as the snow was melting with no fresh snow covering these trails but they held out allowing us to enjoy a weekend meeting some new friends while flying across the snow covered ground under a sun filled sky. A great reminder of why I love to do this whenever I can. By the end of the weekend we had covered 300 miles in 24 hours. Yeah, sleep was sacrificed a little. You can read more about it here: http://monopolytraveler.com/hitting-the-trails-in-the-u-p/ Unfortunately this also marked the beginning of the pandemic reaching the United States. Things changed quickly after.

Beautiful snowflakes fell a number of times

Many of the snowfalls that created these great trails for snowmobiling also gave me opportunities to capture these incredible little ice crystals which I continue to try to capture with the camera. Sometimes I get so lost looking through the view finder that I forget how cold it is and before I know it, I can’t move my fingers to press the shutter button. It’s often difficult to get motivated to prepare for taking these pictures but once all of my winter gear is on and the camera is finally set up, the hours go by quickly as the batteries in my camera die in the winter cold. For more photos of snowflakes head over here.

River Otter coming to examine me

With spring in full swing, my wife and I headed for a mini retreat for a night. After a nice campfire to end the day, we retired for some much wanted sleep. The next morning I got up for the sunrise and headed to the nearby lake enjoying some peace and quiet listening to the sounds of morning. Just before the sun rose above the horizon I heard an unfamiliar sound behind me. There was something swimming but each time I looked to see what it was it would dive under the surface. Finally I saw it surface. A River Otter! One of the creatures I’d wanted to photograph without success and here was one moving closer. It never really gave me the chance to capture a photo while it was in the water. While looking one direction I heard something near my feet. A quick glance and it was gone but there was no mistaking it. The otter had surfaced right next to me and quickly disappeared. I figured that was the end of the interaction. Fortunately a few minutes later the wild otter had climbed up onto the walkway cutting through this little shallow bay and slowly worked its way towards me. After several steps it returned to the water and was gone through the cattails. I couldn’t believe after searching for years for otters that I finally was able to photograph a wild one. Late in the year I had another chance to watch a family of otters searching for food with a few pictures making positive 2020 memories.

Pitcher Plants

As spring turned to summer I headed to Northern Minnesota in search of wild orchids. Along the way I encountered some beautiful carnivorous plants which I’d not seen in Minnesota before. There were pitcher plants in bloom and sundews dotting bogs creating an environment new to me. You can read more by clicking this link: http://monopolytraveler.com/on-the-hunt-for-more-orchids/. During that same adventure I encounter several of Minnesota’s native orchids which was so amazing. I read about them blooming but somehow it still doesn’t seem possible that they’re there and then I see them just growing out of the ground. You can read more about the search for these orchids here: http://monopolytraveler.com/the-hunt-continues/. On that same trip I watched some beautiful sunsets as the sky turned to night bringing out the fireflies and star filled skies. That article is here. It became incredibly easy to forget there was a worldwide pandemic going on. What a refreshing temporary reprieve from all that was happening allowing me to refocus once I returned home.

The Milky Way over Hayes Lake

The summer was in full swing bringing some great storms. Lightning would light up the sky in ways I hadn’t seen in a long time. These were the type of storms I had been searching for over numerous summers lighting up the sky both over head and off in the distance. One of these produced a light show that forced my whole family to stop what they were doing and head out to our driveway just staring up for a long time. The odd piece was there was so much constant lighting but very little thunder to go with it letting us know how high up these storms were. I wrote about one of these nights here

Amazing lightning shows

One of my goals for 2020 was to go camping a few times and this was accomplished. My family and I took a couple of camping trips to just get away from all of the news and attempt to refresh during a weekend here or there. We weren’t able to take a family expedition to any National Parks as I had hoped but we were able to enjoy a few weekends together just a couple of hours from home. These are times that I will remember as good pieces of the past year. One final camping trip came as summer became fall with just my wife on the North Shore of Minnesota. As an unexpected treat, fall colors arrived across the landscape leaving behind a vibrant painting not seen in several years. And we got to watch the leaves change on a daily basis right in front of our eyes. There were some beautiful photographs taken of these by many other people. I captured  a little of the fall color also which you can view on this page.

There was a lot horrific news and unbelievable events that unfolded during 2020, but there was beauty and peace to be found also if it was sought out. I’m thankful for those moments providing me with positive experiences to hold on to in this historic year. Now on to 2021 and whatever it may hold…..

Camping

Isle Royale–The Last Day

After getting settled into our shelter from the mornings hike from Island Mine, the first thing to do was head for the bathrooms with running water and wash up a little. The clean, cool water felt great! Returning to the shelter it was then time to grab something to eat while enjoying the beautiful, quiet camp. With some rest I wanted to wander around Windigo a little and take photos of the trail, flowers, and wildlife while reflecting on our time since last in Windigo 5 days ago. Something was different this time. On the last adventure to Isle Royale in 2012, I couldn’t wait for the boat to pick us up and return to civilization. This time I was dreading the return to the ferry. Why was this time so different? What changed?

Pink Ladyslippers

The sun began to drift lower in the sky bringing a warmer light to the trail. A perfect time to spend with the camera now capturing this beautiful place. Finding all of the orchids we passed at the beginning of this journey so I could photograph them was my goal. I just couldn’t stop taking pictures of the trail and the plants along side it. Every corner provided a different, but beautiful scene. With the day moving closer to the end, it was time to head back to camp and cook one of our last meals before light disappeared. Once this was complete, more time enjoying the view and reflecting on this amazing experience was in order. Eventually the stars began to shine, although many were covered with clouds. I decided to take this last opportunity to do a little night photography. Unfortunately the moon was full with its brightness drowning out many of the twinkling lights in the sky. I snapped some photos trying different shots. After an hour or so of this it was back to the shelter and off to bed.

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I could see some light entering the sky and decided to get up and watch this last sunrise on Isle Royale. There were some beautiful colors in the sky which I wanted to capture with the camera. Leaving the shelter I noticed a runny nose. Just a quick couple of pictures and I would take care of that. That’s when a drop hit the ground which I noticed was red. Dang it! I returned to the shelter for toilet paper to stop my bloody nose and then continued towards the shoreline with the camera. As soon as I turned it on the battery died. Another trip into the shelter to grab a new battery and then back to the camera again. By this time the colors of the morning rising sun had faded. Missed them! Frustrated with the mornings events so far I heard splashing. A moose had come to say good morning which was soon chased away by two more entering the water. This sight never grew tiresome.

Hiking trail

The morning grew older. Camp was all packed up for the last time as departure came closer and closer. I was struggling to force myself to leave. There was such a strong connection to this place now. It felt like the island accepted us as part if its inhabitants, revealing so much of its wilderness many others are not able to see as they keep to their boats or step foot here for only a couple of hours. Even so I kept through the motions of waiting for our ferry and eventually climbing on board. The Voyageur II departed the dock bringing a sadness to me. It kind of felt as though I was being taken against my wishes to the mainland. It’s very difficult to describe. I didn’t want to leave and at the same time I really didn’t want to stay. There’s so much more yet to experience in this place. Was this feeling because I will never be back even though my intentions are to return? I continue to miss Isle Royale and its been over a year since that trip. The solitude. The plant life. The wildlife. The rocks this place is built on. The history of mining and fishing. One piece I don’t miss is the mosquitoes. That constant buzz is still in my ears on a quiet evening.

I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience this place and to have done so with my daughter and cousin. Hopefully some day again I will step foot in this incredible wilderness.

Leaving the island

Isle Royale–The Last Hike

In 2019 I spent six days on Isle Royale National Park with my youngest daughter and one of my cousins hiking the Feldtmann Loop. We had spent the night in Island Mine campground enjoying the only official campground completely in the woods in this National Park. All of the others are near water. Fortunately mosquitoes weren’t as fierce as we originally feared they would be making for a more enjoyable night by our campfire. As daylight crept into the tent and began to light up the forest we began to move around preparing for our final day on the trails. There was excitement about getting to Windigo where there is running water and also hesitation to begin this hike knowing our adventure was nearing a close. All of our gear was now packed up. The last thing we needed to do was cover ourselves in bug spray hoping to reduce the amount of blood stolen from us during the next seven miles to complete our journey.

Packing up camp and getting ready to hike

Doused in repellent, we hoisted our packs, grabbed the trekking poles and began our walk. Today’s path begins by a steep decline immediately followed by a steep incline to reach the next trail intersection leading to Windigo. Beginning the day with this type of terrain is a little difficult and demoralizing as you break out in a sweat right away with tiring legs quickly. As soon as we got to the intersection we dropped the packs and grabbed a snack along with water to recoup for a few minutes. This gave me time to set up the camera for trail pics to mark the beginning of our day surrounded by the beautiful forest. Regaining our legs and energy it was back on the trail knowing that it’s mostly downhill from here. Fortunately this is a relatively high point on Isle Royale.

Hitting the trail

We were moving at a fairly good clip by now after almost 30 miles of backpacking. Our bodies were adjusting to carrying all this weight allowing us to move faster and for longer stretches without a break. There were times we hiked at over 5 miles per hour which was a very good pace for us on this journey. And that was near the end of the hike. Not while we were fresh starting out. I enjoy hiking but not as much as exploring the areas we hike to. That’s the part I like most about backpacking – relaxing and wandering around in an area taking my time to notice the pieces that make up that place. Unique insects, wildlife, plants, and rocks. It seems most hikers are always in a hurry to get on the trail with the goal of putting in as much mileage as they can each day. I do like seeing the places I go through but I miss so many of the details while on the trail. The hike from Island Mine to Windigo seemed too quiet with very little wildlife moving about.

On the trail

As we got closer to the end of the trail we encountered a group of hikers heading in the opposite direction. They said we were about a mile away as far as they could figure which was a great sound to our ears – almost there. Just another 20 minutes or so. Soon after they passed I looked at my phone, which was recording the hike, and saw we had closer to 2 miles left if my mileage was accurate. I didn’t really mind that they were off. I kind of knew we likely had more trail left than they indicated based on how long we’d been hiking. My expectation was to hike at 1.5 – 2.0 miles per hour (mph) including breaks which would take us 3 – 4 hours. In what seemed like no time at all we reached another trail intersection marking near the end of our journey. From here, we had hiked the trail on our last journey to Isle Royale National Park so it all should seem somewhat familiar. I was surprised to see we were moving at a pace of 2.6 mph with a top speed of over 5 mph which was close to the end of our hike. We arrived at the Washington Creek campground and immediately headed for the shelter we stayed at the last time we were here in 2012. Fortunately it was open and we quickly set up camp for the last time. Just then a loud splashing was coming from the water right in front of us. A moose had come to welcome us to Windigo (top photo)!

At the shelter in Windigo