Category Archives: National Parks

Monopoly Traveler Reflections–Agate Fossil Beds

After a long, enjoyable week of exploring in the Badlands and Black Hills of South Dakota with a few days in Rocky Mountain National Park, there was one more stop from our Monopoly Board for this trip. The next destination was Agate Fossil Beds National Monument. We only left a few hours in our schedule to visit as it’s a smaller National Park and focuses on fossils. Great! More dirt formations that require the requisite paintings to portray what might have been roaming at one time millions of years ago. Not my favorite thing to see and learn about. In addition, it was another museum covering the importance of Native American History, which also wasn’t very interesting to me. With all of the exciting places we had seen over the past several days, I was not real enthusiastic for this park. Let’s pull in, see the must items, get our board signed, snap a few photos, and get back on the road. Trying to convince myself this would be a worthwhile stop, I tried to emphasize the positive things about this area to myself. The vast prairie, a bathroom break, and an opportunity to get out of the car and stretch our legs.

The trail to Fossil Hills

The vast prairie was beautiful with green grass waving in the breeze which could be seen for miles and miles. Agate Fossil Beds would be a great learning opportunity for our children…. and myself. Pulling into the park, we stopped for the necessary picture by the sign and headed towards the visitor’s center. Here we picked up packets for our future Junior Rangers and looked at the displays beginning to learn some of the history in this Western Nebraska place. Talking with the rangers and reading some of the plaques, I began to be more interested in the animals which once roamed here a long time ago (at the same time, I was smiling as my kids where learning about history also). Having walked around the visitor center and museum, we pulled out the National Parks Monopoly board for the required signature and presented it to the ranger. As he looked at it, he laughed because the picture used for the board was a photo he took years earlier of Fossil Hills in Agate Fossil Beds. Pictured above is Fossil Hills Trail with University Hill in the center, Carnegie Hill on the right, and the ranger, who signed the board, on the trail on the left side of this picture.

Heading to see the Devil's Corkscrew fossil

We decided it was time to get out and do some hiking. A short trail would be a good fit, before entering the car for several more hours, so we explored the Daemonelix Trail which led to a fossil of an ancient dry-land beaver which created these spiral dens. It was nice be outside hiking with my family surrounded by this beautiful landscape on a warm summer afternoon. It was early July after all. Arriving at the end of the trail, there was this box surrounding a corkscrew formation. We read the plaque describing what this was and the creature that created them. I could envision this ancient animal creating its den through the soil from this display made by the park. I began to wonder what else was hidden in these hills from long ago and why these creatures no longer existed?

The Devil's Corkscrew

Walking back towards the parking lot, I gazed out over the prairie and buildings and began to think about the Native Americans and how they used this land and their cooperation with people coming from different lands. Since this time I’ve become a lot more appreciative of the Native Americans and their importance in the history and development of the US. This was one of the parks that began to signify what these people mean to our country and how they helped shape where we are today for me.  Since Agate Fossil Beds, I’ve learned quite a bit more about Native Americans and how they worked with the each other, the land, and other people from National Parks. On this walk back, we encountered this different plant which I thought was really interesting with these yellow and orange pouches. I still haven’t been able to identify what it is though.

Climbing back into the car to continue our journey home after our junior rangers received their badges, I was really glad this was on our Monopoly board so we could learn about this place. Seeing the bones of animals that roamed the area a long time ago was interesting. Dinosaur bones from a far off place are what I think of when hearing about skeletons being found. Here there were animal remains discovered in Nebraska. I would never have guessed that. This was one of the parks that surprised me the most with how much I enjoyed my time here and what all I learned. That’s the point though, isn’t it?

With our last signature captured for this trip, the game board was safely stored back in it’s place for the rest of the trip home and we continued east once again. Shortly after driving out of Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, there was a rattlesnake coiled up in the middle of the road. We were warned of these in most of the parks we visited on this trip, but this was the only snake we saw. Thankfully it was from the safety of our car while we drove by!

Unknown plant

Monopoly Traveler Reflections–Wild Orchids

During our few days exploring Rocky Mountain National Park, one of the ranger led programs that looked interesting was a hike around Lily Lake looking at the wildflowers. As a horticulturalist I’m always interested in seeing plants in their native environment. We had hiked mostly around the lake looking at the different plants growing there. Many of these I was familiar with and was enjoying seeing them here up in the mountains. As the program was nearing the end the ranger pointed over to an area and mentioned wild orchids were blooming there if we wanted to go in search of those once we made it back to the parking lot.

Hummingbird flitting around

Wild orchids? I didn’t realize there were orchids growing in the mountains. Or in most places including were I lived. I was vaguely familiar with Native Lady Slippers but didn’t really know much about them. Intrigued I convinced the family we should go back and see what these orchids looked like. We searched and searched but weren’t exactly sure what we were looking for. Scouring the landscape in the place the ranger had pointed to I saw a number of different plants but knew they weren’t orchids. Continuing to look I became distracted by a couple of hummingbirds floating here and there stopping for nectar occasionally. While watching them glide back and forth I spotted something unusual. Focusing closer on it I realized that must be the orchids we were told about. They had an unusual flower that must be from the orchid family. It turned out these were Coralroot Orchids which are shown in the top photo. Taking a few photos and now satisfied in a successful hunt, we retreated back to our car and discussed where we should eat for lunch.

Native Orchid in the Rocky Mountains

During our time in this incredible park, we were driving along looking for wildlife and happened to spot what looked like a moose in the woods. Getting out at the next parking area we went in search of this large animal. A few steps into the surrounding forest I spotted it and took a few pictures as it was moving on. Not wanting to disturb the moose further we turned around heading for our car when I looked down and realized I was in a bed of what must be different wild orchids. Again it was the flower that gave it away. I didn’t really know for sure it was an orchid but had a hunch. Upon returning home I looked into these potential orchids and confirmed they were indeed native wild orchids. That was it, I was hooked! Ever since I’ve been searching for and growing native orchids finding more fascinating and unusual types within a short distance of where I live. What a great hobby to go out in search of orchids that can survive in cold climates.

Possibly a Platanthera?

Returning to Kilauea

While celebrating the New Year on the Big Island, one of the few things on our wish list was go back to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. On our last visit to this amazing park, it was just hours before a portion of the volcano wall collapsed causing a plume of smoke and ash to billow into the air. After that it began erupting in other places causing lots of destruction in its path and changing the volcano and island. This would be an amazing opportunity to see how much the volcano had changed during that time. During our first few nights on the island, the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park website warned that the eruption had paused. Since this was one of our intended things to do while here, we were disappointed and wondering if we would be able to see lava actively flowing. Our schedule remained flexible so we could adjust things around in the event lave began to flow once more. Just before going to bed halfway through our trip I checked the website. Lava had begun flowing once again earlier that day. Tomorrow we’ll drive across the island and explore an active volcano.

At the viewing area for Kilauea

About mid morning we climbed into our vehicle for the almost 2 hour drive from Kona to the National Park. Our goal was to be there at sunset to see the orange glow from lava filling into caldera so we started a little later in the morning. Once at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park we stopped at the visitors center, then drove to the overlook of the volcano. It was amazing to see how much larger the caldera had become since visiting 4 years earlier. Smoke was rising up this area but we couldn’t see any lava. It was a little disappointing to not be able to see any orange liquid oozing out from below the rock but it’s still an impressive view. I noticed what appeared to be people across the caldera walking to a different viewing area. Expecting it to be a relatively long hike and some people in our group being unable to walk that distance, I dismissed the thought of finding where the trailhead was for that. After examining the new caldera and signs showing the differences since this last eruption, we returned to the visitor’s center. I listened in to a Ranger talk about where to see the lava and what it takes to do so. He recommended returning very early in the morning when there are very few people at this viewing area they opened just weeks before. That wasn’t really an option for us since it’s such a long distance to drive so on to the next best option – joining hundreds of other people to witness sunset at the newly created viewing area.

Lava erupting from the caldera of Kilauea

A portion of our group opted for hiking the few miles to this overlook where you could actually see lava spewing from below the surface. In order to get a parking spot, we were advised to arrive in the area a couple of hours ahead of sunset. Once parked we spent a little time getting ready and those of us going to the viewing area began our hike. As it turned out, the hike was pretty easy as it was mostly using a paved road no longer in service. A short time later we were at the over look with daylight still presiding over the volcano and there it was. The orange glow of lava erupting. It was a surreal experience for me – very humbling to see with my own eyes. There were hundreds of other people also there so park rangers were trying to keep people rotating to the front for everyone to get a chance to see this natural wonder and it’s power to create the land we walk on. I spent some time photographing this awesome natural power, now understanding more why some many people are drawn to it. Respect is required of such a powerful force and has been shown through the centuries as so many have seen its destructive abilities allowing new life to emerge for many 100’s of years after. Eventually darkness fell over the volcano and the familiar orange glow was a vibrant, sole light source of the volcano. Watching the lava ebb and flow was so mesmerizing. Something I will remember for a very long time. With people waiting back at our vehicle, and a 2 hour drive ahead of us, it was time to depart this viewing area with memories and photographs. It was an incredible experience!

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Monopoly Traveler Reflections–Flattop Mountain

The entire reason we were in Rocky Mountain National Park was because of Flattop Mountain Trail. We had been exploring this incredible and gorgeous national park for the past day and a half but now it was time to see the trail that was on our Monopoly Board. Our family spent the day viewing snow capped mountains, amazing waterfalls, and wildlife which brought us to Bear Lake. The trailhead for Flattop. With all of the exploring we had already done, the energy level was draining. We could have decided that this was close enough but it wouldn’t have felt right. How could we ask a ranger to sign our board, as we had been doing at each park to this point, if we at didn’t at least see the sign for this trail? Ready to go we exited our car and headed for the trail.

Stoping to watch wildlife on the trail

The first part of this hike takes you to Bear Lake before veering off past the lake to Flattop Mountain Trail. As we worked our way up the trail we came across a little wildlife hopping through. It was fun to see this Snow Hare in it’s summer dress – mostly a gray coat. In the photo above you can see it on the right side at the edge of a boulder. The girls are looking in its direction. We enjoyed just observing this rabbit as it searched for food near the trail. Eventually we decided to press on as it was getting later in the day and we wanted to be back at the car before dark fell over the mountains. We continued to make our way up this relatively easy trail, following signs for Flattop Mountain. Altitude was certainly being felt but wasn’t seeming to be a major issue. A short time later we arrived at the beginning of Flattop Mountain Trail as announced by a sign at the side of this trail.

Made it to the Flattop sign

At this point we took a short break to enjoy accomplishing our goal of stepping on Flattop Mountain Trail. It was never our intention to hike this whole trail as we were pretty worn out from exploring this large, mountainous wilderness. I walked up the trail a little ways being accompanied by my daughters before turning around and retreating back to the sign just to say I hiked on this trail pictured in our Monopoly board. From here headed back to the car and returned to our hotel after eating dinner for some much needed rest. We had successfully achieved what we had set out to do but I couldn’t help but ponder if this really counted as exploring the trail that brought us out to these Rocky Mountains.

Our second attempt seven years later

Even though we managed to get to the trail we set out to find, A small part of me felt as though we kind of cheated and didn’t really experience the reason this trail was put on our Monopoly Board. Even so, there was really no intention of returning and hiking to the top of Flattop Mountain. As the years went by and we continued on family adventures, we came upon a summer with no park to explore. This feeling of not really hiking the Flattop Mountain Trail had grown more and more. This was also helped by our experience backpacking on Isle Royale for a few days. I grew in my confidence to be able to hike longer distances. And now wanting a summer trip to spend with the family decided to take on the challenge of getting to the top of this mountain and fulfilling this piece of the game. While planning this trip I also began to study maps, distances, and what we would need to do for this hike.

I began to train for the 10 mile hike round trip up into the mountains. Being unsure of how the altitude would affect me, I focused more on building my lung capacity than my leg muscles as I was pretty comfortable with the physical shape I was in. Eventually the time of our trip arrived. It was early August and we drove to Estes Park. This was the first time we returned to one of the National Parks we had already visited. Along the way we made stops at Pipestone National Monument and Scot’s Bluff National Monument so there were new places to see. Making it to Rocky Mountain National Park, I couldn’t stop thinking about whether or not I could really do this. Was I physically fit enough? How would the altitude impact me? The day before the planned hike my oldest daughter announced she was going to join me. She couldn’t let me do it alone. Who would be able to come back and tell mom if I got injured after all? I was thrilled to have company on this hike. Doing it alone just isn’t as enjoyable for me. I love sharing adventures with people.

At the top!

We woke up about 3am to get dressed and head to the trailhead. We wanted to get an early start so we could make it to the top and begin our descent before storms began to build. And storms had been active and were forecast to remain active in this area. We each grabbed a hiking pole, turned on our flashlights, and began the 5 mile journey up the mountain. Everything looked so different that it was seven years ago. Of course it was also dark out and the may have played a part. One foot in front of the other we climbed higher and higher. By sunrise we had put a couple of miles behind us and were about to go above the tree line. We would stop for breaks every now and then but for the most part this hike was going well. Getting above the trees we began to be greeted by marmots venturing out of their nighttime hiding places for the morning. As we continued on we noticed some hikers behind us. We were the first ones on the trail on this day but now others were coming into sight. And they seemed to be catching up to us. A little more motivated we continued moving up the mountain side getting closer and closer to the top.

Finally our destination came into view. We were going to make it. The altitude had become a bit more of an impact now but we were still able to go. And with the hikers gaining behind us, we kept pushing. They were not going to beat us to the top! Step after step we finally reached the summit of Flattop Mountain. A few minutes later the next pair of hikers arrived. We all found a few boulders to sit on and grab a bite to eat enjoying the view around us. Chatting a little we found out that these other two were Marines and came out hiking frequently. No wonder they were able to catch up so quickly. After a little rest we continued to explore the top of the mountain and came upon the Continental Divide Trail. I decided to follow it for a little ways before returning to the summit of Flattop. We have finally completed this property on our Monopoly Board.

But now something else was stirring in my mind. The next adventure was behind me in the photo below. Off in the distance, over my should, there it stands – Longs Peak! The highest point in Rocky Mountain National Park.

The next challenge is behind me

Climbing Grand–Climbing Day

Waking up to the darkness on the mountain, there are other climbers moving around getting ready to hike out of camp. I begin to imagine what this day will be like and all the work put in to get here. All of those early mornings of getting up when I really didn’t want to for a run before heading to work. Running is not my thing but it was the best way I could think of for preparing for the altitude of these mountains. Putting training packs on for Saturday hikes to begin to acclimate our bodies to this extra weight. Exercising to build strength needed for climbing. What seemed like endless stairs with a backpack  that continued to get heavier and heavier as the climb got closer. Accumulating the needed gear over the past 9 months and using it so we would be more use to it in the mountain. This day is why I pushed through all of this preparation and here it is. Would it all be worth it? Was it enough? I couldn’t tell which was more dominate – my excitement to do this or my anxiety over preparedness. It didn’t matter now. The only thing that I needed to focus on was spending this experience with my family and keeping us all safe while trying to enjoy every piece I could. This may be the last opportunity to climb a mountain for me.

The day begins in the dark

The gear for this day was packed, my layers where on, and I was exiting my tent. The only light besides my headlamp were the houses residing over a mile below. Unfortunately it was cloudy so not even the stars where shining. Rain was forecast for later in the day capping how much time we had to climb. I was the first of our group to reach the main tent housing our kitchen here on the mountain. Water was being warmed for my tea and breakfast burritos being steamed for a little energy to tackle the rigorous trail ahead. A few minutes to use the outdoor bathroom and more of our group had arrived ready to go. We all grabbed something to drink, topped off our water bottles, and mentally prepared to achieve our goals for this day. Each of us had different goals and needed to work together to accomplish them. Our time had arrived to hoist the daypacks upon our shoulders and hit the trail. Every step required careful placement being illuminated only by the lights on our head. This first part was what I looked forward to least as it was maneuvering on loose rocks making up a gravel trail. Surprisingly we covered a large amount of ground and were at our first climbing point fairly quickly.

Sunrise from the saddle

We connected our ropes and one by one climbed up this first wall of stone. Once above this spot we noticed something floating through our beams of light. Was that snow? It was at this point I first realized how cold it was and that I was shivering. I really didn’t think much about being cold as I knew we would soon be warming up from the hard work yet to come. With all of our climbers off the ropes we continued on the trail to the saddle between Middle Teton and Grand where another base camp existed along with a ranger tent. Reaching this camp a short time later, we all agreed that the views here were incredible but so was the wind. That would be a little more miserable to deal with all of the time. Our base camp was better protected making the environment more enjoyable we determined. From here we continued on the trail as it continued steeply higher to a series of rock walls to the top. Keeping one foot in front of the other we arrived at larger boulders signaling the base of the peak for Grand.

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This marked the goal of some of our group and they had reached it as daylight continued to illuminate the landscape around us highlighting the path we had taken. After a few minutes of discussion we decided to split into two groups. One would continue the climb while the other made the journey to camp invigorated by reaching their objective on this morning. While I continued on with my cousin, each group kept in touch over radio so they could know how the other group was doing.

For me, the fun part of this adventure was about to begin. The trail steepened and boulder scrambling started putting my physical abilities to the test. Soon the scrambling was complete and it was time to put on the ropes for more serious rock climbing. This seemed like a good time to take off a layer or two as the sun was now shining and the temperatures rising.  I never knew until now how much I enjoy scaling rock walls. Maneuvering from hand hold to foot hold kept a huge smile on my face. Well, until I reached a spot requiring me to climb out, away from the mountain creating the sensation of going to fall off. While it took some time, we made it over this section with a big sigh of relief and continued up. There was no option in our minds of quitting and turning back at this point. Word had reached us that the other group was nearing camp by this time while they had heard we were continuing to climb.

On the climb

Every piece of the climb seemed easier after this as we successfully navigated these vertical rocks continuing to increase our elevation. I finally relaxed a little feeling great and that all of my work preparing was paying off. Breathing was easier than I expected and remembered from my climb on Longs Peak in Colorado. Higher and higher we climbed and I realized as I looked over at Middle Teton, we had reached an altitude above its’ peak. The only peak higher than we were now was Grand.

Word had come over the radio that the other group was now safely back in camp recovering and preparing for the descent the next day. Unfortunately time was not on our side now. It would be unlikely for us to reach the summit this day as we were about 30 minutes from the time we would need to turn around and head back towards camp before storms once again were predicted to engulf the area. Still we continued higher just enjoying the experience and the scenery surrounding us. By this time our other group was beginning to get a little nervous that something happened as they hadn’t heard anything from us for awhile. We were just trying to keep going and not in a great spot for communication to go through surrounded by stone walls.

Reaching a nice plateau, we decided this would be as far as we would go and took some time to sit and reflect on our surroundings and our climb that morning. We radioed back to the other group our location and the return back was about to begin. They sighed with a little relief hearing all was going well and we were ok.

Getting above Middle Teton

Taking some time to get a little to eat, something to drink, and taking a few photos from this place on the mountain, we heading back towards the ledge we had just climbed to get here. What seemed like just a few minutes earlier we climbed up this ledge and now we would begin our descent from here. The trip down always seems to be faster and in a short time we were making our way back over the rocks we climbed and were back at the saddle where we split into two groups.

In just over an hour we would be back in camp, finishing our day of climbing on Grand Teton. While we may not have made it all the way to the top of Grand, I felt fortunate to have this experience and share it with my daughters, cousin and his daughter. Adventures like this have a lasting impact for the rest of our lives and just getting this far is an achievement.

Back at camp a guide asked how our climb was. I responded with it being a great experience with lots of beautiful sights. We may have been the least able climbers on the mountain that day but at least we were on it doing what we could. I was glad to be reunited with our group and begin sharing this experience with each other at camp while grabbing some nourishment and rehydrating, waiting for storms that never formed.

Enjoying the views of the landscape around us

Monopoly Traveler Reflections–Our First Encounter With a Bull Elk

It was the fourth National Park in our first week of our Monopoly Traveler Adventures. We had just entered Rocky Mountain National Park and had been there less then an hour before coming upon a huge traffic jam. What was this we wondered? Not having experienced one of these before we had no idea what to expect. Everyone was getting out of their cars after attempting to park them on the side of the road and walking towards a spot in the forest. Eventually we saw what had caused this sudden parking lot, it was a pair of Bull Elk laying down not far from the road. We decided to join in with the rest of the crowd, grabbing a spot recently vacated on the side of the road and walk to see these magnificent creatures.

Bull Elk wanting to be left alone

We couldn’t fully believe what we were seeing. Right next to the road with all of these people around are a pair of elks just resting as if all of this commotion was of no concern. This was the first time any of us had ever seen an elk and spent some time gazing as they would turn their heads swinging their huge, velvety anthers showing us just how large they were. What an introduction to this beautiful park! As if the mountainous landscape wasn’t enough of a reason to be here, now we had some great wildlife to add to the experience. Like many of those around us, I was snapping away with the camera unsure if we would have another opportunity to view another elk in this vast space.

The kids in the Rocky Mountains with a Bull Elk resting in the background

After photographing and watching these wild animals for awhile, I decided to have my two daughters stand with these elk in the background to highlight how close they actually were. Trying to stay the recommended distance away and making sure there was an easy escape should one of these elk stand up and threaten anyone, I continued taking pictures. Unfortunately others decided to approach the wildlife to see how close they could get and take a picture causing this pair of bulls to stand up and meander on through the forest.  This seemed so disrespectful and disappointing because now other visitors didn’t have the chance to see these wild animals. We returned to our vehicle to continue our journey exploring this amazing and beautiful park. By the end of our time in Rocky Mountain National Park, spotting elk would become a little more mundane and almost expected as we would continue to see these large deer in several areas along our adventure here.

The elk was disturbed enough it finally got up to move

Climbing Grand–Training Day

It was Saturday morning, the day after hiking 7 miles and gaining around 5,000 feet in elevation. The rain and wind had been pounding at our tents for much of the night but now had settled down. This was to be our training day in the mountains with breakfast starting us off at 8am. We were all tired and quite stiff, unsure of how much energy our bodies still had for climbing activities but we were here and wanted to climb Grand. With this motivation we got dressed and collected near the Kitchen – a larger tent with a rounded roof for hot breakfast burritos to start the day. It was cloudy and cool but at least the rain wasn’t falling. For how long we weren’t sure as the forecast called for more storms to develop as the afternoon continued so we needed to take advantage of the dry morning.

Getting our climbing gear fitted and put on

The first step was getting climbing gear fitted and put on which included day packs, helmet, harness, and carabineers to attach ropes to. Everything we would bring with the next day for our main climb. My expectation for this day was to fit our gear and an introduction on how to use it including attaching ropes, terminology, and climbing techniques on rocks or boulders nearby. Once the gear was on and tightened correctly we headed for a few boulders just above us to begin to learn how to use and trust our approach shoes. These were new to all of us so I didn’t realize the bottoms of these shoes have different tread for different climbing uses. Our guide showed us what these different treads were for and then headed for a rock slab to put them to use. None of us were ready to work on this slab as it was still wet from rain the night before. There’s no way we would get up it without slipping and injuring something. After a lot of convincing from our trusted guides, we began to move up and down the slab using techniques and body position to move up and down this slab sticking to it with our rubber bottomed shoes even though it was wet. From here we moved on to a boulder which had a square corner and again used climbing techniques with body position to locate hand and foot holds which at first didn’t appear to be there. Amazing how we learned to move up and down this rock also!

About to attempt our first class 5 climb

Soon we were on a trail to the peaks in the top photo. Arriving at the base, our guides began to pull out ropes and remove a few layers of clothing in preparation for teaching us how to go up the mountain. Taking this lead, we also began to remove a few layers as we would begin working more and getting quite warm. At this time it was a good opportunity to drink some water and eat something. You burn a lot of calories while climbing and require more water to remain hydrated in the dry mountain air. In a few minutes we were all attached to ropes and instructed on the path to take up this steep rock. From a distance these peaks appear to be straight up and down and quite intimidating. Once you begin to study them up close you can often find paths using ledges and crevices and begin to figure out how to move towards the top. Again, trusting our guides, we tried to follow their paths and all worked together to locate places to put our hands and feet that were secure in order to push ourselves up the rock. Even though we were attached by ropes, none of us was interested in seeing how well they were holding us and relied solely on our hand and foot holds. I didn’t really expect to get into this level of training. It almost felt as though we were thrown right into some major mountaineering.

Getting near the top

In what seemed like a very short time we had climbed a significant distance and having fun doing it. I was so concerned the altitude would prevent me from climbing at a reasonable speed and was pleasantly shocked to find it wasn’t much of a factor in my ability to keep a good pace. Keep in mind were were above 11,000 feet. This wouldn’t seem all that difficult except we normally live at 1,000 feet in elevation. For those that haven’t experience higher altitudes before, this is a huge change and really affects getting adequate oxygen into your body. I’ve been told it’s a good comparison for people with asthma because it feels like you’re constantly gasping for air while exerting energy at this elevation. At least until you adjust to it.

Learning to trust the ropes and harnesses

Becoming more comfortable with our gear and climbing abilities, we moved up the rock reaching higher ledges with more spectacular views. As I was really starting to have a lot of fun I reached up for the next ledge to climb, bringing myself on top of it only to realize this was the summit. There was no where else to climb up. We sat on top enjoying the view of the mountains and valleys around us while other members of our group worked their way up. At first I couldn’t believe we did it and now I was amazed at how quickly we seemed to make it to the summit. Unfortunately it meant we were also done with this part of the training. I wanted to do more! As the rest of our group made it to the top, we began to make preparations for the descent.

Getting re-hooked back up to the mountain on different ropes, we were instructed that this was the part designed to learn how to trust our equipment. The guide told us to move towards the ledge and lean over putting all of our weight on the harness and ropes. For those of you who haven’t tried this, looking over a ledge that is essentially straight up and down for hundreds of feet below with nothing but sharp boulders to land on, putting all of your trust into a single rope is not easy. Eventually, while hanging out over this ledge, we managed to put our full weight on this single rope and began to repel down the mountain we had just climbed up.  Getting more comfortable repelling, it became fun to move down the rock quickly using less effort and soon we were back on the lowest ledge needing to hike to the next area on which to descend. In a short time we were back hiking towards camp reflecting on this mountaineering we had learned and achieved. What a fantastic experience which was now over all to quickly! It was time to rest up and re-energize for our main goal of climbing on Grand Teton the next day.

Successfully made it to the top of this one

Climbing Grand– The Hike Up

After several years of planning, our most challenging adventure yet had arrived – climbing Grand Teton. I shared this adventure with my two daughters along with a cousin and his daughter. We were all very nervous about whether or not we were physically able to do this but also excited for a chance to climb this challenging mountain. While it may not be as tall as many in Colorado, it’s every bit as demanding. If not more so. My biggest concern was the altitude and what effects it would have on everyone including myself. The last time I climbed a mountain (Longs Peak) I found I would begin to black out if I moved too fast at the higher elevations and I knew this time I would need to keep a good pace in order to be successful. My training had been more intense for this adventure so hopefully that would make a difference in my abilities at the top of the mountain.

On the Trail

We began our journey to our camping location about 8am uncertain about what was ahead of us besides 7 miles of up hill climbs in order to reach our camping destination. Leaving from the Lupine Meadows trailhead, the ground was flat but soon turned up. The first mile went by quickly and seemed rather tolerable. The second mile was more of the same keeping our pace at a nice clip towards our destination. Between here and mile three there was a surprise. A black bear was gorging on berries near the trail. It really didn’t appear to have much interest in us other than wanting us to continue moving on so it could eat in peace. We cautiously continued up the hill after watching this bear for a short time without incident. Several other hikers ahead and behind us did the same. The bear became a topic of conversation for a brief moment at camp with other climbers as it seemed to stay there for some time.

A bear near the trail feeding heavily

Over the next couple of miles we began to hike above the tree line where the terrain became more rocky but the incline was still manageable allowing us to continue moving higher. As the halfway point came and went, altitude began to show its impact as our breathing became more labored and our legs became more fatigued. The scenery was a great distraction of these discomforts with beautiful mountain vistas surrounding us and water running downhill from the melting glaciers above filling the air with calming sounds. Middle Teton could be seen above us now but no sign of our destination near Grand Teton. After a short break we began to climb large boulders which I enjoyed more than the typical trail. These didn’t last long and soon we had reached Lupine Meadows which was incredibly beautiful Mountain scene with flowers, waterfalls, and Grand Teton in the background.

The trail begins to get more rocky as we hike higher up

Pulling off the trail and finding a boulder to sit on, we took a break to eat and re-fill water containers from the mountain stream after filtering it first. I could have stayed here for hours just enjoying the sights and sounds but time was going by quickly and clouds were beginning to build. Storms appeared to be on there way and staying dry was preferred for the last portion of our trail. Repacking our food into our backpacks, we once again grabbed trekking poles and continued putting one foot in front of the other. Only a few miles left to go. Unknown to us at this moment but our trail was about to get quite a bit more difficult as the hills steepened. Our incline became more difficult, the altitude was having a more intense effect on our breathing, and the clouds continued to get darker motivating us to keep hiking up this hill towards camp. Our legs were really wearing out now feeling as though the could just collapse. We had to stop to catch our breath and regain some balance often going up these last few miles but tried to keep moving as much as possible. Finally another mile had passed with only one more to go. Could we make it the rest of the way up this steep hill?

Scenery continues to get more spectacular as the hike progresses

I began to accept that we were going to get wet as thunder could be heard behind us. While this provided some motivation, was it enough to keep our weary bodies moving? Still climbing one step at a time, we continued on our journey wondering if this will ever come to an end. Continuing to slowly move higher, it felt like a snail would move faster up these switchbacks. Each breath became precious trying push energy into our legs which now seemed to have the consistency of Jello. I noticed a few drops starting to fall and tried to climb faster on a seemingly endless trail. When if felt as though our trail would not end it leveled out. Finally some mercy for our legs! A short hike later and we had reached our destination of Corbet High Camp. Thankfully the tents were already set up so all we had to do was race inside with our packs to stay mostly dry. The last hiker entered their tent and zipped it shut before the storms, which had chased us up the mountain, let loose.

The mountain had been kind to us allowing us to reach shelter just in time. We collapsed onto the sleeping mats allowing our aching legs to begin their recovery while bright flashes penetrated the tent walls followed by the loud, humbling cracks of thunder and intense rain smashing all around us outside. Filled with relief for getting here we began to feel the satisfaction of accomplishment for pushing so hard on this difficult trail. But what have we gotten ourselves into?

The most challenging part of the hike is at the end

Monopoly Traveler Reflections–Grandpa Was Told to Keep His Leg Elevated

Just before our first Monopoly adventure, my father had surgery on his knee. A few weeks had passed but he was still healing and wanted to come along with my wife and two daughters to explore some of the American West. His doctor told him he needed to keep his knee elevated at times to help in the healing. What better way to keep it elevated than to explore the Rocky Mountains? Our journey had taken us through the Badlands of South Dakota on to Mt. Rushmore before ascending into Estes, Colorado which resides at over 7,500 feet in elevation. At times we went to heights of over 12,000 feet elevation. We kept wondering if that was enough elevation for his knee. I’m not sure the doctor would see the humor in such an adventure.

Hiking to Flattop

During our time of elevating my dad’s knee we hiked a number of trails to see mountains, wildlife, flowers in bloom, and waterfalls. He continued on with us much more than I ever expected, walking through the pain as though it wasn’t really there. Knowing who he is I’m confident there were some challenging moments, which he never let on to the rest of us for fear of holding us back. At the time he likely would have preferred a little less exploring to rest his knee but is happy he pushed through his soreness for all of the great experiences we shared during a 10 day road trip. I’m grateful to have had this time to share with him out exploring such an amazing landscape which we continue to talk about to this day, even though it happened over a decade ago. When the time comes for me to have work done on my knees I know exactly how I want to keep it elevated as it heals!

Taking in a Waterfall

Picture Rocks

Earlier this spring my family took a road trip to the Central Michigan over Spring Break. On our way back home we wanted to do a little exploring in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Rising at about the same time as the sun, we left the Traverse City area and headed north. Several hours later we once again reached the Mackinaw Bridge driving over it for a second time in only a few days looking out at Lake Michigan on one side and Lake Huron on the other. Continuing north in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan we arrived at Pictured Rocks and now had to figure out what we wanted to see there. Unfortunately the visitors centers were closed so all that were available were the maps they had put on display outside their visitors center and those on our phones. Our first hike was to see the Munising Falls near the visitor center which is a pretty little waterfall only a short hike from the nearby parking lot. The sun had broken out making it comfortable with only a sweatshirt on this early April morning. It was a nice hike as plants were beginning to come back to life after many months of rest during the winter surrounding the water flowing over these sandstone rocks.

Munising Falls

Unfortunately the only camera I had now was the one on my phone since my other camera had died earlier in the trip, which you can read about in the previous article. Phone cameras do a nice job but they have limitations compared to better cameras with interchangeable lenses. Still I accepted this challenge to take interesting pictures with the camera available recording our time in this beautiful National Park. Leaving the waterfall we headed to nearby Sand Point Beach were we gazed over our third Great Lake of the day – Lake Superior. I didn’t realize there were sand beaches around Lake Superior. I thought they were all rock beaches. The sand was beautiful and held all of these dead trees which had been weathered for years creating beautiful sculptures. In the photo below I liked how the log laying on the sand directs you to the multiple stumps surrounded by the tan sand and getting taller as you look towards Lake Superior. The last stump touching the soft, white cloud dotting the blue sky. We enjoyed some time climbing around some of these decaying trees and walking along the shore of this cold, large lake. In places the sand had a pink hue to it and the only thing that made sense was a nearby park building had red shingles which released sand particles during strong winds ending on the beach. As I looked into this a little more it would seem there’s a different reason for these spots of reddish pink sands. Apparently little garnets are washed up here from nearby sandstone cliffs creating this coloration on the beach.

A weathered tree on Sand Point Beach

Ready to explore some of the cliffs, we packed back in the car and headed to another area of the park. It was now lunchtime so we made a detour to head into Munising for a little nourishment. Once our hunger was satisfied, it was time to see some of these pictured rocks the park is named after. With only a short time before needing to continue our journey home, we decided on seeing the most popular of these cliffs – Miner’s Castle. There’s a nice overlook here with trails winding through the woods allowing people to see the Miner’s Castle up close. Reaching the first viewing area overlooking Lake Superior and the coastline you could see beautiful turquoise water that should only be in the Caribbean. The view is enhanced by the reddish sandstone rising out of the water and then topped by beige stone above, which can be seen in the top photograph. From here we wandered along the shore to another viewing area allowing people to see the castle close up and study the beige/white coloration along with the interesting formations creating this sculpture. During our time at Miners Castle, we interrupted a wedding party taking pictures. They were very nice and understanding allowing us to step to the platform for a better view of these rocks.

Close up of Miners Castle

Needing to continue on our journey home, we left the castle viewing spot heading back to the car. Along the way we crossed the North Country National Scenic Trail. What a beautiful location to hike! This is a trail I’ve researched some and thought how fun it would be to backpack on. At least portions of it.

While walking back to the parking lot, fog was blowing over the trees above creating an interesting, if not eerie, landscape.  Loaded back into our car I entered directions back home in the GPS, both a little sad our time here was over and looking forward to getting home. But first, Miner’s Beach is on the way and we may be able to see more of this fog drifting into the trees. How about a quick stop here to see a bit more of the landscape and walk on a sandy beach one last time for Spring Break? Entering the beach we could see the fog forming on Lake Superior with the wind blowing into the shoreline. Satisfied with the views from this final beach, we hit the road going west towards the horizon.

Fog beginning to roll inland from the cold waters of Lake Superior on Miner's Beach