Category Archives: Backpacking

Adventures, Backpacking, Grand Teton National Park, National Parks, Troy's Blog

Climbing Grand–Climbing Day

Waking up to the darkness on the mountain, there are other climbers moving around getting ready to hike out of camp. I begin to imagine what this day will be like and all the work put in to get here. All of those early mornings of getting up when I really didn’t want to for a run before heading to work. Running is not my thing but it was the best way I could think of for preparing for the altitude of these mountains. Putting training packs on for Saturday hikes to begin to acclimate our bodies to this extra weight. Exercising to build strength needed for climbing. What seemed like endless stairs with a backpack  that continued to get heavier and heavier as the climb got closer. Accumulating the needed gear over the past 9 months and using it so we would be more use to it in the mountain. This day is why I pushed through all of this preparation and here it is. Would it all be worth it? Was it enough? I couldn’t tell which was more dominate – my excitement to do this or my anxiety over preparedness. It didn’t matter now. The only thing that I needed to focus on was spending this experience with my family and keeping us all safe while trying to enjoy every piece I could. This may be the last opportunity to climb a mountain for me.

The day begins in the dark

The gear for this day was packed, my layers where on, and I was exiting my tent. The only light besides my headlamp were the houses residing over a mile below. Unfortunately it was cloudy so not even the stars where shining. Rain was forecast for later in the day capping how much time we had to climb. I was the first of our group to reach the main tent housing our kitchen here on the mountain. Water was being warmed for my tea and breakfast burritos being steamed for a little energy to tackle the rigorous trail ahead. A few minutes to use the outdoor bathroom and more of our group had arrived ready to go. We all grabbed something to drink, topped off our water bottles, and mentally prepared to achieve our goals for this day. Each of us had different goals and needed to work together to accomplish them. Our time had arrived to hoist the daypacks upon our shoulders and hit the trail. Every step required careful placement being illuminated only by the lights on our head. This first part was what I looked forward to least as it was maneuvering on loose rocks making up a gravel trail. Surprisingly we covered a large amount of ground and were at our first climbing point fairly quickly.

Sunrise from the saddle

We connected our ropes and one by one climbed up this first wall of stone. Once above this spot we noticed something floating through our beams of light. Was that snow? It was at this point I first realized how cold it was and that I was shivering. I really didn’t think much about being cold as I knew we would soon be warming up from the hard work yet to come. With all of our climbers off the ropes we continued on the trail to the saddle between Middle Teton and Grand where another base camp existed along with a ranger tent. Reaching this camp a short time later, we all agreed that the views here were incredible but so was the wind. That would be a little more miserable to deal with all of the time. Our base camp was better protected making the environment more enjoyable we determined. From here we continued on the trail as it continued steeply higher to a series of rock walls to the top. Keeping one foot in front of the other we arrived at larger boulders signaling the base of the peak for Grand.

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This marked the goal of some of our group and they had reached it as daylight continued to illuminate the landscape around us highlighting the path we had taken. After a few minutes of discussion we decided to split into two groups. One would continue the climb while the other made the journey to camp invigorated by reaching their objective on this morning. While I continued on with my cousin, each group kept in touch over radio so they could know how the other group was doing.

For me, the fun part of this adventure was about to begin. The trail steepened and boulder scrambling started putting my physical abilities to the test. Soon the scrambling was complete and it was time to put on the ropes for more serious rock climbing. This seemed like a good time to take off a layer or two as the sun was now shining and the temperatures rising.  I never knew until now how much I enjoy scaling rock walls. Maneuvering from hand hold to foot hold kept a huge smile on my face. Well, until I reached a spot requiring me to climb out, away from the mountain creating the sensation of going to fall off. While it took some time, we made it over this section with a big sigh of relief and continued up. There was no option in our minds of quitting and turning back at this point. Word had reached us that the other group was nearing camp by this time while they had heard we were continuing to climb.

On the climb

Every piece of the climb seemed easier after this as we successfully navigated these vertical rocks continuing to increase our elevation. I finally relaxed a little feeling great and that all of my work preparing was paying off. Breathing was easier than I expected and remembered from my climb on Longs Peak in Colorado. Higher and higher we climbed and I realized as I looked over at Middle Teton, we had reached an altitude above its’ peak. The only peak higher than we were now was Grand.

Word had come over the radio that the other group was now safely back in camp recovering and preparing for the descent the next day. Unfortunately time was not on our side now. It would be unlikely for us to reach the summit this day as we were about 30 minutes from the time we would need to turn around and head back towards camp before storms once again were predicted to engulf the area. Still we continued higher just enjoying the experience and the scenery surrounding us. By this time our other group was beginning to get a little nervous that something happened as they hadn’t heard anything from us for awhile. We were just trying to keep going and not in a great spot for communication to go through surrounded by stone walls.

Reaching a nice plateau, we decided this would be as far as we would go and took some time to sit and reflect on our surroundings and our climb that morning. We radioed back to the other group our location and the return back was about to begin. They sighed with a little relief hearing all was going well and we were ok.

Getting above Middle Teton

Taking some time to get a little to eat, something to drink, and taking a few photos from this place on the mountain, we heading back towards the ledge we had just climbed to get here. What seemed like just a few minutes earlier we climbed up this ledge and now we would begin our descent from here. The trip down always seems to be faster and in a short time we were making our way back over the rocks we climbed and were back at the saddle where we split into two groups.

In just over an hour we would be back in camp, finishing our day of climbing on Grand Teton. While we may not have made it all the way to the top of Grand, I felt fortunate to have this experience and share it with my daughters, cousin and his daughter. Adventures like this have a lasting impact for the rest of our lives and just getting this far is an achievement.

Back at camp a guide asked how our climb was. I responded with it being a great experience with lots of beautiful sights. We may have been the least able climbers on the mountain that day but at least we were on it doing what we could. I was glad to be reunited with our group and begin sharing this experience with each other at camp while grabbing some nourishment and rehydrating, waiting for storms that never formed.

Enjoying the views of the landscape around us

Backpacking, Grand Teton National Park, Troy's Blog

Climbing Grand–Training Day

It was Saturday morning, the day after hiking 7 miles and gaining around 5,000 feet in elevation. The rain and wind had been pounding at our tents for much of the night but now had settled down. This was to be our training day in the mountains with breakfast starting us off at 8am. We were all tired and quite stiff, unsure of how much energy our bodies still had for climbing activities but we were here and wanted to climb Grand. With this motivation we got dressed and collected near the Kitchen – a larger tent with a rounded roof for hot breakfast burritos to start the day. It was cloudy and cool but at least the rain wasn’t falling. For how long we weren’t sure as the forecast called for more storms to develop as the afternoon continued so we needed to take advantage of the dry morning.

Getting our climbing gear fitted and put on

The first step was getting climbing gear fitted and put on which included day packs, helmet, harness, and carabineers to attach ropes to. Everything we would bring with the next day for our main climb. My expectation for this day was to fit our gear and an introduction on how to use it including attaching ropes, terminology, and climbing techniques on rocks or boulders nearby. Once the gear was on and tightened correctly we headed for a few boulders just above us to begin to learn how to use and trust our approach shoes. These were new to all of us so I didn’t realize the bottoms of these shoes have different tread for different climbing uses. Our guide showed us what these different treads were for and then headed for a rock slab to put them to use. None of us were ready to work on this slab as it was still wet from rain the night before. There’s no way we would get up it without slipping and injuring something. After a lot of convincing from our trusted guides, we began to move up and down the slab using techniques and body position to move up and down this slab sticking to it with our rubber bottomed shoes even though it was wet. From here we moved on to a boulder which had a square corner and again used climbing techniques with body position to locate hand and foot holds which at first didn’t appear to be there. Amazing how we learned to move up and down this rock also!

About to attempt our first class 5 climb

Soon we were on a trail to the peaks in the top photo. Arriving at the base, our guides began to pull out ropes and remove a few layers of clothing in preparation for teaching us how to go up the mountain. Taking this lead, we also began to remove a few layers as we would begin working more and getting quite warm. At this time it was a good opportunity to drink some water and eat something. You burn a lot of calories while climbing and require more water to remain hydrated in the dry mountain air. In a few minutes we were all attached to ropes and instructed on the path to take up this steep rock. From a distance these peaks appear to be straight up and down and quite intimidating. Once you begin to study them up close you can often find paths using ledges and crevices and begin to figure out how to move towards the top. Again, trusting our guides, we tried to follow their paths and all worked together to locate places to put our hands and feet that were secure in order to push ourselves up the rock. Even though we were attached by ropes, none of us was interested in seeing how well they were holding us and relied solely on our hand and foot holds. I didn’t really expect to get into this level of training. It almost felt as though we were thrown right into some major mountaineering.

Getting near the top

In what seemed like a very short time we had climbed a significant distance and having fun doing it. I was so concerned the altitude would prevent me from climbing at a reasonable speed and was pleasantly shocked to find it wasn’t much of a factor in my ability to keep a good pace. Keep in mind were were above 11,000 feet. This wouldn’t seem all that difficult except we normally live at 1,000 feet in elevation. For those that haven’t experience higher altitudes before, this is a huge change and really affects getting adequate oxygen into your body. I’ve been told it’s a good comparison for people with asthma because it feels like you’re constantly gasping for air while exerting energy at this elevation. At least until you adjust to it.

Learning to trust the ropes and harnesses

Becoming more comfortable with our gear and climbing abilities, we moved up the rock reaching higher ledges with more spectacular views. As I was really starting to have a lot of fun I reached up for the next ledge to climb, bringing myself on top of it only to realize this was the summit. There was no where else to climb up. We sat on top enjoying the view of the mountains and valleys around us while other members of our group worked their way up. At first I couldn’t believe we did it and now I was amazed at how quickly we seemed to make it to the summit. Unfortunately it meant we were also done with this part of the training. I wanted to do more! As the rest of our group made it to the top, we began to make preparations for the descent.

Getting re-hooked back up to the mountain on different ropes, we were instructed that this was the part designed to learn how to trust our equipment. The guide told us to move towards the ledge and lean over putting all of our weight on the harness and ropes. For those of you who haven’t tried this, looking over a ledge that is essentially straight up and down for hundreds of feet below with nothing but sharp boulders to land on, putting all of your trust into a single rope is not easy. Eventually, while hanging out over this ledge, we managed to put our full weight on this single rope and began to repel down the mountain we had just climbed up.  Getting more comfortable repelling, it became fun to move down the rock quickly using less effort and soon we were back on the lowest ledge needing to hike to the next area on which to descend. In a short time we were back hiking towards camp reflecting on this mountaineering we had learned and achieved. What a fantastic experience which was now over all to quickly! It was time to rest up and re-energize for our main goal of climbing on Grand Teton the next day.

Successfully made it to the top of this one

Backpacking, Grand Teton National Park, Troy's Blog

Climbing Grand– The Hike Up

After several years of planning, our most challenging adventure yet had arrived – climbing Grand Teton. I shared this adventure with my two daughters along with a cousin and his daughter. We were all very nervous about whether or not we were physically able to do this but also excited for a chance to climb this challenging mountain. While it may not be as tall as many in Colorado, it’s every bit as demanding. If not more so. My biggest concern was the altitude and what effects it would have on everyone including myself. The last time I climbed a mountain (Longs Peak) I found I would begin to black out if I moved too fast at the higher elevations and I knew this time I would need to keep a good pace in order to be successful. My training had been more intense for this adventure so hopefully that would make a difference in my abilities at the top of the mountain.

On the Trail

We began our journey to our camping location about 8am uncertain about what was ahead of us besides 7 miles of up hill climbs in order to reach our camping destination. Leaving from the Lupine Meadows trailhead, the ground was flat but soon turned up. The first mile went by quickly and seemed rather tolerable. The second mile was more of the same keeping our pace at a nice clip towards our destination. Between here and mile three there was a surprise. A black bear was gorging on berries near the trail. It really didn’t appear to have much interest in us other than wanting us to continue moving on so it could eat in peace. We cautiously continued up the hill after watching this bear for a short time without incident. Several other hikers ahead and behind us did the same. The bear became a topic of conversation for a brief moment at camp with other climbers as it seemed to stay there for some time.

A bear near the trail feeding heavily

Over the next couple of miles we began to hike above the tree line where the terrain became more rocky but the incline was still manageable allowing us to continue moving higher. As the halfway point came and went, altitude began to show its impact as our breathing became more labored and our legs became more fatigued. The scenery was a great distraction of these discomforts with beautiful mountain vistas surrounding us and water running downhill from the melting glaciers above filling the air with calming sounds. Middle Teton could be seen above us now but no sign of our destination near Grand Teton. After a short break we began to climb large boulders which I enjoyed more than the typical trail. These didn’t last long and soon we had reached Lupine Meadows which was incredibly beautiful Mountain scene with flowers, waterfalls, and Grand Teton in the background.

The trail begins to get more rocky as we hike higher up

Pulling off the trail and finding a boulder to sit on, we took a break to eat and re-fill water containers from the mountain stream after filtering it first. I could have stayed here for hours just enjoying the sights and sounds but time was going by quickly and clouds were beginning to build. Storms appeared to be on there way and staying dry was preferred for the last portion of our trail. Repacking our food into our backpacks, we once again grabbed trekking poles and continued putting one foot in front of the other. Only a few miles left to go. Unknown to us at this moment but our trail was about to get quite a bit more difficult as the hills steepened. Our incline became more difficult, the altitude was having a more intense effect on our breathing, and the clouds continued to get darker motivating us to keep hiking up this hill towards camp. Our legs were really wearing out now feeling as though the could just collapse. We had to stop to catch our breath and regain some balance often going up these last few miles but tried to keep moving as much as possible. Finally another mile had passed with only one more to go. Could we make it the rest of the way up this steep hill?

Scenery continues to get more spectacular as the hike progresses

I began to accept that we were going to get wet as thunder could be heard behind us. While this provided some motivation, was it enough to keep our weary bodies moving? Still climbing one step at a time, we continued on our journey wondering if this will ever come to an end. Continuing to slowly move higher, it felt like a snail would move faster up these switchbacks. Each breath became precious trying push energy into our legs which now seemed to have the consistency of Jello. I noticed a few drops starting to fall and tried to climb faster on a seemingly endless trail. When if felt as though our trail would not end it leveled out. Finally some mercy for our legs! A short hike later and we had reached our destination of Corbet High Camp. Thankfully the tents were already set up so all we had to do was race inside with our packs to stay mostly dry. The last hiker entered their tent and zipped it shut before the storms, which had chased us up the mountain, let loose.

The mountain had been kind to us allowing us to reach shelter just in time. We collapsed onto the sleeping mats allowing our aching legs to begin their recovery while bright flashes penetrated the tent walls followed by the loud, humbling cracks of thunder and intense rain smashing all around us outside. Filled with relief for getting here we began to feel the satisfaction of accomplishment for pushing so hard on this difficult trail. But what have we gotten ourselves into?

The most challenging part of the hike is at the end

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Training for the Mountain

In just a few short weeks I’ll be in Grand Teton National Park with my family preparing to climb Grand Teton. To prepare we’ve been doing a number of things such as strength training, cardio, and hiking. Recently we were up on the North Shore of Minnesota and stopped at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park to do some hiking. To help in our preparation we carry backpacks weighted down so our bodies can adjust to the additional weight before going on our 7 mile journey up a mountain where we’ll camp for 3 nights. Another piece to these training hikes it the opportunity to test different gear and food. Most of the equipment is stuff we’ve used before but a few items, such as our approach shoes, are new for this adventure. It’s these times we can really put them to the test and see how they perform. Food presents some different challenges when up in the mountains. It just tastes different at higher elevations and we need to make sure we really like what we’re eating. Otherwise it gets considerably more difficult to eat anything when you don’t really feel hungry and are not motivated by what tastes good.

On top of Corundum Point

During my last time camping in Split Rock, I explored some trails with my wife and found Corundum Point out over the bay from where I was on Lake Superior. At that point I knew some day I wanted to hike on top of the massive rocky point. You can view a of the photo from a distance by clicking on this link: Corundum Point. This seemed like a good opportunity to both get in some hiking and explore this granite cliff.

We arrived at the trailhead parking lot mid afternoon on a partly cloudy, cool late spring day on the North Shore. Climbing out of the car we began to prepare for the hike. Changing shoes, getting our backpacks ready to go, and using the bathrooms. As soon as we were ready it began to rain. We knew this was a possibility and made sure our rain gear was also with us. Showers were popping up but stayed pretty spotty so we decided to get back in the car and wait it out. Ten minutes later we were on the trail for a short 3 mile hike enjoying the northwoods views, sounds, and smells while remaining close to the shores of Lake Superior.

Coral Root orchid in bloom

During our trip the terrain was varied going up and down while staying pretty flat at other times. It’s used heavily enough that it’s fairly easy to follow but still requires navigation around rocks, tree roots, and uneven ground. At one point the rain began to lightly fall again so I brought out an umbrella. Had it been a heavier rain we could have used the rain coats and pants currently tucked inside each pack.

Before I knew it we were at Corundum point beginning the ascent to the top for a grand view of this large lake. Once on top we took some time to relax and enjoy our surroundings while grabbing a snack. Doing a little exploring on this interesting rock formation, a Peregrine Falcon made its presence known letting us know it knew we were there. I enjoyed watching as it flew back and forth over Lake Superior eventually settling back into the top of a tree. Soon it was time to throw the packs back on and return to the car.

View from Corundum Point

Shortly after hitting the trail back, I spotted an orchid just beginning to bloom. It was a large clustered Coral Root orchid beautifully starting to display its small flowers. I had hoped to spot a native orchid during our hike but expected to see Ladyslippers as they tend to be a lot easier to see and should be in bloom. The hike was already enjoyable but adding a hardy orchid makes it even more fun.

At one point on the trail there are steps assisting people to climb from the shoreline up the steep granite cliff, which seem to continue on forever. You get near the top and these steps take a turn continuing up through the trees which are effective at hiding the top. It’s probably good that the top is so well hidden otherwise it could be a challenge to keep motivated to climb them. Soon we were back at the trailhead and our time here was quickly disappearing. While I wasn’t ready to leave, I had a great afternoon with my daughters and a few memories to take with.

The stairs of health and fitness climbing up from the lake to the nearby ridge

Backpacking, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

Isle Royale–The Last Day

After getting settled into our shelter from the mornings hike from Island Mine, the first thing to do was head for the bathrooms with running water and wash up a little. The clean, cool water felt great! Returning to the shelter it was then time to grab something to eat while enjoying the beautiful, quiet camp. With some rest I wanted to wander around Windigo a little and take photos of the trail, flowers, and wildlife while reflecting on our time since last in Windigo 5 days ago. Something was different this time. On the last adventure to Isle Royale in 2012, I couldn’t wait for the boat to pick us up and return to civilization. This time I was dreading the return to the ferry. Why was this time so different? What changed?

Pink Ladyslippers

The sun began to drift lower in the sky bringing a warmer light to the trail. A perfect time to spend with the camera now capturing this beautiful place. Finding all of the orchids we passed at the beginning of this journey so I could photograph them was my goal. I just couldn’t stop taking pictures of the trail and the plants along side it. Every corner provided a different, but beautiful scene. With the day moving closer to the end, it was time to head back to camp and cook one of our last meals before light disappeared. Once this was complete, more time enjoying the view and reflecting on this amazing experience was in order. Eventually the stars began to shine, although many were covered with clouds. I decided to take this last opportunity to do a little night photography. Unfortunately the moon was full with its brightness drowning out many of the twinkling lights in the sky. I snapped some photos trying different shots. After an hour or so of this it was back to the shelter and off to bed.

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I could see some light entering the sky and decided to get up and watch this last sunrise on Isle Royale. There were some beautiful colors in the sky which I wanted to capture with the camera. Leaving the shelter I noticed a runny nose. Just a quick couple of pictures and I would take care of that. That’s when a drop hit the ground which I noticed was red. Dang it! I returned to the shelter for toilet paper to stop my bloody nose and then continued towards the shoreline with the camera. As soon as I turned it on the battery died. Another trip into the shelter to grab a new battery and then back to the camera again. By this time the colors of the morning rising sun had faded. Missed them! Frustrated with the mornings events so far I heard splashing. A moose had come to say good morning which was soon chased away by two more entering the water. This sight never grew tiresome.

Hiking trail

The morning grew older. Camp was all packed up for the last time as departure came closer and closer. I was struggling to force myself to leave. There was such a strong connection to this place now. It felt like the island accepted us as part if its inhabitants, revealing so much of its wilderness many others are not able to see as they keep to their boats or step foot here for only a couple of hours. Even so I kept through the motions of waiting for our ferry and eventually climbing on board. The Voyageur II departed the dock bringing a sadness to me. It kind of felt as though I was being taken against my wishes to the mainland. It’s very difficult to describe. I didn’t want to leave and at the same time I really didn’t want to stay. There’s so much more yet to experience in this place. Was this feeling because I will never be back even though my intentions are to return? I continue to miss Isle Royale and its been over a year since that trip. The solitude. The plant life. The wildlife. The rocks this place is built on. The history of mining and fishing. One piece I don’t miss is the mosquitoes. That constant buzz is still in my ears on a quiet evening.

I’m grateful for the opportunity to experience this place and to have done so with my daughter and cousin. Hopefully some day again I will step foot in this incredible wilderness.

Leaving the island

Backpacking, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

Isle Royale–The Last Hike

In 2019 I spent six days on Isle Royale National Park with my youngest daughter and one of my cousins hiking the Feldtmann Loop. We had spent the night in Island Mine campground enjoying the only official campground completely in the woods in this National Park. All of the others are near water. Fortunately mosquitoes weren’t as fierce as we originally feared they would be making for a more enjoyable night by our campfire. As daylight crept into the tent and began to light up the forest we began to move around preparing for our final day on the trails. There was excitement about getting to Windigo where there is running water and also hesitation to begin this hike knowing our adventure was nearing a close. All of our gear was now packed up. The last thing we needed to do was cover ourselves in bug spray hoping to reduce the amount of blood stolen from us during the next seven miles to complete our journey.

Packing up camp and getting ready to hike

Doused in repellent, we hoisted our packs, grabbed the trekking poles and began our walk. Today’s path begins by a steep decline immediately followed by a steep incline to reach the next trail intersection leading to Windigo. Beginning the day with this type of terrain is a little difficult and demoralizing as you break out in a sweat right away with tiring legs quickly. As soon as we got to the intersection we dropped the packs and grabbed a snack along with water to recoup for a few minutes. This gave me time to set up the camera for trail pics to mark the beginning of our day surrounded by the beautiful forest. Regaining our legs and energy it was back on the trail knowing that it’s mostly downhill from here. Fortunately this is a relatively high point on Isle Royale.

Hitting the trail

We were moving at a fairly good clip by now after almost 30 miles of backpacking. Our bodies were adjusting to carrying all this weight allowing us to move faster and for longer stretches without a break. There were times we hiked at over 5 miles per hour which was a very good pace for us on this journey. And that was near the end of the hike. Not while we were fresh starting out. I enjoy hiking but not as much as exploring the areas we hike to. That’s the part I like most about backpacking – relaxing and wandering around in an area taking my time to notice the pieces that make up that place. Unique insects, wildlife, plants, and rocks. It seems most hikers are always in a hurry to get on the trail with the goal of putting in as much mileage as they can each day. I do like seeing the places I go through but I miss so many of the details while on the trail. The hike from Island Mine to Windigo seemed too quiet with very little wildlife moving about.

On the trail

As we got closer to the end of the trail we encountered a group of hikers heading in the opposite direction. They said we were about a mile away as far as they could figure which was a great sound to our ears – almost there. Just another 20 minutes or so. Soon after they passed I looked at my phone, which was recording the hike, and saw we had closer to 2 miles left if my mileage was accurate. I didn’t really mind that they were off. I kind of knew we likely had more trail left than they indicated based on how long we’d been hiking. My expectation was to hike at 1.5 – 2.0 miles per hour (mph) including breaks which would take us 3 – 4 hours. In what seemed like no time at all we reached another trail intersection marking near the end of our journey. From here, we had hiked the trail on our last journey to Isle Royale National Park so it all should seem somewhat familiar. I was surprised to see we were moving at a pace of 2.6 mph with a top speed of over 5 mph which was close to the end of our hike. We arrived at the Washington Creek campground and immediately headed for the shelter we stayed at the last time we were here in 2012. Fortunately it was open and we quickly set up camp for the last time. Just then a loud splashing was coming from the water right in front of us. A moose had come to welcome us to Windigo (top photo)!

At the shelter in Windigo

Backpacking, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

Isle Royale–Headed to Island Mine

Last summer my daughter Kris, cousin Chad, and I went to Isle Royale on a backpacking adventure. I’ve written posts on the first part of that trip from Windigo to Feldtmann Lake and onto Siskiwit Bay previously. This is a continuation of our experience on the island.

After a full day of resting and enjoying the area around Siskiwit Bay it was once again time to pull on our packs and head out. The destination was Island Mine Campground which was only 4 1/2 miles away but we decided to get an early start to the day. Mosquitoes could be bad there and if that’s the case we wanted enough time to continue hiking on towards Windigo. Camping in a mosquito infested area is not that fun as the safest place is inside a tent after killing whatever insect followed inside. Spending an afternoon swatting these pests was not our idea of fun so we wanted to give ourselves the opportunity to keep going in daylight if necessary. If we hiked at our average pace we should be there in 3 hours, 4 if we really take our time. That would still give us enough time to continue the 6 1/2 miles to Windigo and arrive before dark.

A fresh wolf print in the sand

The first two miles of the hike are along the shore of Siskiwit Bay. Half of those two miles are along the beach. While navigating the beach and trying to stay dry from waves washing up on shore, we came across fresh wolf prints in the sand. This must have been the wolf cry we heard the night before. These were recent because we had walked this same beach the day before and there were no wolf tracks in the sand at that time. By this time we had seen everything but a wolf itself. There was a kill and scat on the way to Siskiwit Bay, a howl in the night, and now the tracks. Seeing an actual wolf would have been amazing but to see all of these signs and hear one was more than I expected so I was quite satisfied just to know they were near.

On the trail towards Island Mine Campground

Making our way around the bay, we came to a place with a sharp left turn. This will be the last view of Lake Superior for the next day as our next campsite will be in the middle of the Island. The trail slowly begins to ascend as we moved inland and the mosquitoes seem all to happy to welcome us back to the woods. Dowsing ourselves in bug spray, these irritating pests added motivation to keep moving with their constant hum as they searched for any little spot without repellant on it to steal blood. After seeing so many moose near the previous camp sites, we were always on the lookout for one that may pose danger on the trail. This can be a challenge because you also have to keep your eyes on the trail lest a rock or root jump up from the ground and trip you. Falling on the trail with all of that extra weight on your back is a good way to get the air knocked out of you or twist your ankle. Not something we wanted to experience during this adventure.

An old mine shaft or storage area

It seemed like a very short time, but we had hiked for a couple of hours when we came upon the abandoned mine this area is labeled after. Large piles of tailings highlight the entrance with few plants covering them even after a century of closing. Walking over these first piles you begin to see equipment left here from a long time ago. In one are there was something built that could have been a mine shaft or storage facility which you can see in the photo above. Many of the pieces have been weathered over the years bringing a further authenticity to this historic site. We spent nearly an hour exploring this old operation imagining how things were done from the placement of the equipment, tailings, and excavation locations. It was fun to be able to take our time looking over this site and imagine the people and how they worked here, even for a short time wondering if this would have been something I would have enjoyed doing back in the day.

Some old equipment abandoned at Island Mine

With a little under a mile to go, we got back on the trail heading towards the campsite a little under a mile away. The remaining hike continued through a mature forest of maples, firs, and aspen up and down hills. What a sight this area must be in the fall as the trees explode in reds, oranges, and yellows preparing for winter. Eventually we came to a creek crossing with a steep hill to climb. The hill would be a bit of a challenge anyway but with all of our extra weight it was even more daunting.  With the aid of small trees to help with the climb we made it to the top and saw the sign laying out the campsites. We’re already here we thought? And at the same time had a sigh of relief to be able to pull the packs off and set up camp. We were the only ones at this campsite, for now. Before getting too much pulled out of our packs we took a little time to feel out the bug situation. How bad were the mosquitoes? Do we continue on to Windigo or are they tolerable enough that we can stay as planned?

Settling in at camp

There really weren’t many mosquitoes in this location and water was available a short distance away so we decided to spend the night in the only campsite on Isle Royale that isn’t near water. And one of the few that allow fires. The tent was excavated from a backpack and quickly set up with sleeping bags and pillows and most of our gear stored for the night. We gathered wood to start a fire and began cooking our main meal of the day. While hiking the meals consist of trail bars, trail mix, and whatever else is in a bag for snacking but when in camp we cook something more substantial to aid in recovering from a strenuous journey on the trail. While eating, the quietness of the woods begins to settle in and you realize you’re alone as no other hikers had come through while we’ve been in camp. We could yell at the top of our lungs and no one would be able to hear us. It was possible the closest people to us were more than 4 miles away. Both comforting and disturbing! Thoughts quickly shifted to our time together in this beautiful place as we have just one more hike to bring this incredible adventure to an end.

Enjoying a rare fire on Isle Royale

Previous posts of this trip:

A Return to Isle Royale

Independence Day on Isle Royale

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay

Isle Royale–From Feldtmann Lake to Siskiwit Bay part II

Isle Royale–Enjoying a Day at Siskiwit Bay

Isle Royale – A Moose Close Up and Personal

Adventures, Backpacking, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

A Trip to Rainbow Cove

As our first day on Isle Royale was coming to a close we decided to take others advice and head to Rainbow Cove on the eastern edge of the island to watch the setting sun to the west out over Lake Superior. After hiking 9 miles with heavy packs on our backs, hiking nearly another mile might seem a little too ambitious. Surprisingly, after a little time sitting at camp, the soreness in my legs and back disappeared although the energy level was still low after a long day getting to the island and getting to Feldtmann Lake were we were camping for the night. This was probably the only chance to catch a sunset here so if we didn’t go we would miss the opportunity even though we were actually staying in this area for two nights. The next night clouds were expected to cover the sky with possible rain showers or even a thunderstorm so off to Rainbow Cove we went. Without all that weight resting on our shoulders it actually was a nice hike over beautiful terrain.

Something just doesn't seem quite right

Along the way we enjoyed all of the blooming flowers, smell, and scenery of the north country trapped in Lake Superior. At one point during a conversation I turned to look back at my cousin who was walking behind me and out of the corner of my eye, I noticed something didn’t seem quite right. Quickly looking back I realized we were being watched by a moose. I kept walking until there was a larger tree between me and this moose which was just standing there watching as we passed by. Now having a little protection, the question was to keep going as we were really too close to this animal or stop and watch and possibly capture a photo or two. Well, given the pictures above and below you can guess what we did. Fortunately this particular moose didn’t seem real interested in defending her area and just continued to watch us while we watched her back and snapped a few photos. While taking in this lucky encounter, another hiker came behind us. He stopped abruptly once he looked up and saw we were stopped, looking at something in the woods. I could tell when he realized what we were looking at by the surprised look on his face from being so close to this large animal. Moose have been know to be quiet aggressive and with their size can cause substantial harm so we didn’t stay too long. Besides, the sun would be nearing the horizon soon. Back to the trail.

A moose on the side of the trail

Eventually we made our way to Rainbow Cove and collapsed on the beach. What a great spot to just sit and relax, listening to the gentle waves wash up against the pebble filled shoreline as the sun continued it’s trek toward the horizon. After some time had passed and other hikers began to join us on the beach I decided I should try and capture a few photos since I did drag the camera and tripod all the way here. Wanting to just continue sitting and enjoy the surroundings, I knew I would regret it if I didn’t come back with some pictures to remind me of the experience. Picking up the camera I began to try a few different compositions but my energy wasn’t truly up to the task. There are a few shots that show just how beautiful this area is even still. The setting sun was blocked by several clouds so the colors I had hoped to see, and photograph, didn’t materialize like I’d hoped. It was a worthwhile adventure regardless.

Sunset at Rainbow Cove

As we were just about ready to work our way back, something appeared to be heading our way along the shoreline. As it approached we could tell it was another moose stopping to munch on some leaves while working its way up the beach. Now what do we do? The best thing to do when a moose is near is find a tree to stand next to and keep still. Here we are exposed on the beach. A moose is a much better swimmer than we are and would be able to out run us into the trees a short distance behind. With nowhere to really go we watched as the moose continued closer and closer. It seemed as though the moose didn’t really care about the National Park Service’s rules about how far to stay away from these animals as this one was clearly in violation of it. Finally, as it got uncomfortably close it heading back into the island. Unfortunately it happened to be close to the trail we needed to take back to our campsite. Waiting for about 10 minutes or so we figured it should be safe to head back as this moose should have moved far enough away from the trail. We were in luck!

Getting back on the trail there was no sight or sound of this large creature. Finding our pace towards camp, I walked past a large group of shrubs and immediately saw the moose again. It was facing away from us while continuing to eat until it saw me at the same time. In a moment it was turned towards me and charging. I quickly moved back behind the shrubs I’d passed and the moose stopped. Waiting another 5 minutes, my cousin decided to see if the moose had safely moved on. He slowly moved to the clearing away from these shrubs looking for the moose. It was still there facing the opposite direction eating. Again it turned quickly and charged a second time. Immediately he retreated behind the shrubs once again and the moose stopped just like before. Now I was getting concerned as it was getting dark and our flashlights were back at camp. We intended to be back before dark overtook Isle Royale. Who expected to be trapped by a moose this long? Another 10 minutes passed and we tried again. This time the moose was gone thankfully. I enjoy seeing these moose but not when one is being aggressive as night is approaching. With just a hint of light still in the air we made our way back to camp for the night and crawled into the tent. What an amazing first day on Isle Royale!

What do we do now?

Adventures, Backpacking, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

Hiking to Feldtman Lake

And we’re off! The Feldtman Lake Trail is listed at just under 9 miles from Windigo and we have no real good idea how our group will perform. How many stops will we need? What pace can we maintain? Our goal is to get our camp set up before dark reaches the island. It was almost noon when we started and sunset was about 10pm on the island so ten hours to make it there. On our last Isle Royale adventure in 2012, we averaged 1.5 miles per hour. That was seven years ago though. If we can maintain that average we should be able to complete nine miles in six hours which would get us to the campground about 6pm. Plenty of time to get set up and cook food before the sun falls below Lake Superior.

The start of Feldtman Lake Trail

The first two miles of this adventure were familiar because on the first day of our last Isle Royale trip we explored the area to an overlook on this exact trail. I knew there was a fairly steep climb leading to the overlook for our first nice challenge. The overlook would be a good spot to rest with the packs off for a short time and let us know where we are for speed. Fortunately our energy was high and the trail was beautiful with plants at peak flower causing me to forget about the weight on my back from time to time. There were even a few different types of orchids in bloom which was really exciting to see. After the first mile we began to head up in elevation causing us to really become warm after shivering on the boat ride to the island. Now I get to see if all of my preparations to be physically ready paid off. There was a bit of a strain on my legs in this section of the trail and my breathing became quite labored just before reaching the summit but all in all I felt pretty good. Like I could make this hike reasonably well.

Spring flowers in full bloom along the trail

Reaching the overlook, I checked the time and saw our pace was at my expectations. And the nice part was the rest of the trail is downhill. Finding a spot to set our backpacks down, we grabbed a drink of water and admired the view (photo at the top of the post). After a few minutes of scanning the island from this high point we sat for a few minutes and found some food to keep our energy levels up for the remaining seven miles. Feeling good and a little anxious to see what lies ahead, we hefted our heavy packs back on top of our shoulders and continued on. There were a few ripe wild strawberries in the are so I  harvested a couple for a nice little fresh fruit on the trail. Quite tasty although barely the size of a pea. It would take a lot of these for a nice meal. Up on the ridge the temperature was estimated to be in the upper 70’s Fahrenheit so it was warm and we were now hiking in the sunlight.

One of the many obstacles on this trail

Thankfully the shade of trees arrived a short distance later helping to keep us cool. Although they also became obstacles from time to time which we happily overcame. A downed tree was a great place to lean against and take much of the backpack weight off of our shoulders from time to time revitalizing our legs and backs before continuing on. Over the course of the afternoon we would stop every couple of miles to remove the heavy weight being carried on our backs, grab something to eat quickly, and sip some water making sure to ration so there was enough until we could refill. About halfway to Feldtman Lake, the thimbleberry bushes began their attack. These are fairly tall bushes with stiff branches and large leaves which continually ate at our legs leaving behind some nice gouges for us to remember them by. As we continue to move we only encountered one other hiker headed towards Windigo and two hikers on their way to Feldtman Lake. They passed us during one of our breaks to regain the lead. We caught up to them again right at Feldtman Lake.

Our campsite at Feldtman Lake

I had decided it was time for another break and sat down briefly to find a little relief from my backpack as the weight was really causing soreness in my shoulders and lower back. Also I wanted our group to be rejoined to make sure everything was going ok. A few minutes passed and looking at a clock and miles already hiked told me there should only be a small portion left ahead. That was all the motivation I needed to put the pack back on knowing it should only be for another 20 minutes at the most. As it turned out, I turned a corner and saw the metal sign showing the location of all of the campsites. We had made it! Moving towards the campground, there was an open site but wasn’t right on the lake so we kept looking. There were a few others open but this first one we spotted seemed like the best remaining place to pitch our tent so we walked in the cleared area and set our backpacks down for the last time on this day. What an amazing feeling! It was like I was walking on air or had springs in my shoes without that thing attached weighing me down. And it was just after 6pm so there was plenty of time to enjoy camp yet.

The first moose sighting

A few minutes after setting down the packs and pulling out the tent, a moose was spotted not far away in Feldtman Lake. We headed to a nice viewing spot to take in some wildlife viewing and relax for a moment. I had hoped we would see a moose or two on this adventure and here one was to welcome us to our first camping spot. After a few minutes, the moose headed back into the woods so we returned to our evening chores of getting the tent set up with sleeping pads and sleeping bags. Once complete we began preparing our one hot meal of the day talking about that days adventures and what we wanted to do with the few remaining sunlit hours. A trip to Rainbow Cove was recommended by multiple people so that seemed like a good way to end our first day on Isle Royale.

Map of the days hike

Backpacking, Lake Superior, National Parks, Troy's Blog

Preparing for Isle Royale

In my previous post on ‘Planning for 2017’ I wrote briefly on going back to Isle Royale. I find this desire to backpack here very humorous because the last time I did this with the rest of my family I was adamant that backpacking was not for me and I would never do it again. I was glad to have experienced it once but that was enough. And now I can’t wait to return and hike further and for more days. What happened?

One of the shores of Isle Royal

Either I’ve gone crazy or have gained more knowledge on backpacking. First lets figure out why there was no desire to backpack again. Most of this came from hiking with a lot of extra weight on my back causing pain in my shoulders and back every time my pack was hoisted back onto my shoulders. The second reason is that sleeping was cold and uncomfortable leaving me tired much of the time longing for a good nights sleep. Other than that, I enjoyed the time on the island.

Getting up close to a moose can be very exciting if done safely for the animal and the viewer.

So what’s different now? A number of things have changed my opinion of backpacking bringing on an excitement to do it again. First is all of the information and experience I’ve gained since then increasing the confidence to be able to hike with extra weight and actually enjoy it. I now have a good idea of what is involved in preparing for an extended hike which includes hiking locally with a heavy backpack for a couple of miles each time along with biking a couple of days a week for several miles putting me in better shape. Also I have a nicer camera that I really enjoy using and Isle Royale is a great place for beautiful photographs adding to my excitement to be there.

A portion of the beautiful trails on Isle Royale

If I do this right the training backpack will be heavier than my actual pack making it seem like no big deal to carry all day long. Add to this increased muscle strength to be able to carry the weight while working around rocks and tree roots, using trekking poles to keep better balance and weight distribution, and bringing fewer items reducing my overall back pack weight should combine to make a fun hiking experience.

Sleeping in the solitude of Isle Royale can be difficult to get use to.

A few weeks after returning from Isle Royale the last time I began to go through our supplies and determined how I would pack differently another time to reduce the weight I was carrying. It was amazing how much different things felt for each pound we removed either in food or water weight making the pack lighter. We definitely brought too much food last time and heavy food at that. That is an easy place to reduce weight by several pounds. Also, sleeping gear last time was heavy lugging small air mattresses, cotton sheets, and blankets. This time a sleeping bag, light sleeping pad, and maybe a small pillow which should eliminate more weight. My only concern is increased weight in camera equipment so I will have to watch that part. As far as sleeping goes, I know there won’t be great sleep so I’m prepared for that so it should be less of a concern.

One of the Entrance Stations of Isle Royale

Training for hiking in the Rocky Mountains in 2016 and how successful it was and I was at completing a couple of 10 mile + hikes at higher elevations has proven to me that I can adequately train for this trip and go the distance with my backpack. In fact, at times I would even forget I was carrying my backpack loaded with clothing, food, and water all as a result of training before hand. The pack will be heavier this time as it will include more food, a tent, sleeping gear, and probably more clothing so I understand what I need to do to prepare. I’m so looking forward to this but there is much to do before then.