Tag Archives: Isle Royale National Park

Adventures, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

A Return to Isle Royale

It’s been too long since the last time backpacking on Isle Royale. A trip was planned a couple of years ago that had to be canceled but finally, this summer we were able to return. It’s a little weird writing that since the last time, in August 2012, I was very certain I never wanted to return and do another backpacking trip. Funny how things change. This time I was so excited to see the island again. To be immersed in it’s wilderness and to hike the route I originally wanted to hike the last time – The Feldtmann Loop. Thankfully we didn’t hike this route last time as it requires some dedication and is more physically challenging. I wouldn’t have enjoyed it. Carrying a very heavy pack and never having backpacked before would have made it an awful experience I think. Hopefully I’m better prepared with a little more knowledge and can enjoy such a physical adventure.

Just about to board the Seahunter III

Waking up early after a late night of traveling to Grand Portage, if there was any sleep this past night, the nerves began to set in. Because there’s a time change just to the east of Grand Portage, our phones were reading a different time than the hotel clocks. Which one was right? We have to complete our packing and get to the ferry docks to begin a day of hiking. The trip takes about two hours which gets us to the island mid-morning. Will we be able to make camp at Feldtmann Lake before dark? How will we do hiking 9 miles with backpacks much heavier than I wanted. Mine was over 40 pounds and I was hoping to have it at 30 pounds or less. I remember being miserable with such a heavy pack the last time with a sore back in multiple places, sore feet, and legs and that was only 5 miles. We made it to the docks with plenty of time and even stopped for breakfast to eat on the way. Our packs were finally fully packed and loaded into the boats storage area and it was time to just enjoy this moment. I couldn’t tell if I was more excited or nervous. My youngest daughter was with me and she was somewhat hesitant to come on this trip to begin with. Would she enjoy it with the more extensive hikes and more weight? She was afraid to be the weak link in our hiking group and feared holding us back. I just wanted to have this time with her and for her to have a great and memorable experience. Sharing this time with her was something I had been really looking forward to so now it was time to just take in the moment and be thankful for this tremendous opportunity.
The ancient and sacred Little Spirit Tree

Just before boarding the crew informed us that the water temperature was in the low 40’s Fahrenheit and it would be a cold trip so bring some additional layers to keep warm if we had them. I grabbed my fleece coat for additional warmth but anything else would require unpacking so I decided to endure the couple of hours of gliding through the cold waters. Shortly after departing the docks the ferry tends to stop for a short view of the Witch Tree, also known as the Little Spirit Cedar Tree. It is a gnarled old tree estimated to be over 400 years old growing out of the rocks on the shoreline of Lake Superior near Grand Portage, Minnesota. This is a sacred tree to the local Ojibwa. I’m always amazed to think something can grow, essentially in rocks, and endure the extreme winter weather for such a long period of time. And now it was time to turn and continue our journey towards Isle Royale.

Isle Royale is visible on the horizon

Off on the horizon you can begin to make out the tree line of this National Park. It’s hard to believe it takes so much time to travel this distance but that’s because it’s surprising how far away it really is. The trip covers 22 miles of Lake Superior. It was difficult to remain calm and try to enjoy our journey but I was nervous about the days hike and just wanted to begin. About halfway the cold waters began to make there way through our jackets as we began to shiver. The crew was absolutely correct about the journey being cold. Not that I thought they were wrong to begin with. I wrapped my arms around Kristen hoping to bring some warmth to her. I didn’t want her expending additional energy just trying to stay warm. She would need it later. In a few hours, I knew we would all be hot once again and just kept telling myself that the cold air was only temporary and to continue to enjoy the sights and our time on the boat as much as possible. About half way the Rock of Ages lighthouse became visible and a marker telling us how close to the island we were.

Entering Washington Harbor

Soon the lighthouse moved from east of the boat to west as we passed into the National Park. The details of trees and stone creating this incredible landscape became closer signaling our arrival back to this beautiful wilderness. The nerves were beginning to give way to excitement and the cold was being chased away by thoughts of wildlife and wildflowers. Would there be wild orchids in bloom on our paths? Would we see another moose this time? How about a fox or even a newly placed wolf? Engines started winding down as we entered Washington Harbor. The shoreline began to have a familiar look. The trees still had their bright, spring green appearance as though the snow only left a few weeks ago. More and more I was certain it was a perfect time to live on Isle Royale for a week. Soon we slowed down to gaze through the clear waters of Lake Superior at the USS American. One of many shipwrecks around this large island. After a few minutes of observing this underwater treasure, we were once again headed for the docks to disembark for our journey. In a short time had our backpacks again and needed to check in with the ranger station informing them of our hiking plans before beginning. Filling our water bottles, lathering on the sunscreen, and taking advantage of flushing toilets seemed like a good idea before donning our packs and leaving this relatively modern spot for the wilderness over the next week. A few quick photos to mark the beginning of our journey and it was finally time to grab the hiking poles. Are we ready?

Arriving at Windigo ready to begin another adventure

Backpacking, Lake Superior, National Parks, Troy's Blog

Preparing for Isle Royale

In my previous post on ‘Planning for 2017’ I wrote briefly on going back to Isle Royale. I find this desire to backpack here very humorous because the last time I did this with the rest of my family I was adamant that backpacking was not for me and I would never do it again. I was glad to have experienced it once but that was enough. And now I can’t wait to return and hike further and for more days. What happened?

One of the shores of Isle Royal

Either I’ve gone crazy or have gained more knowledge on backpacking. First lets figure out why there was no desire to backpack again. Most of this came from hiking with a lot of extra weight on my back causing pain in my shoulders and back every time my pack was hoisted back onto my shoulders. The second reason is that sleeping was cold and uncomfortable leaving me tired much of the time longing for a good nights sleep. Other than that, I enjoyed the time on the island.

Getting up close to a moose can be very exciting if done safely for the animal and the viewer.

So what’s different now? A number of things have changed my opinion of backpacking bringing on an excitement to do it again. First is all of the information and experience I’ve gained since then increasing the confidence to be able to hike with extra weight and actually enjoy it. I now have a good idea of what is involved in preparing for an extended hike which includes hiking locally with a heavy backpack for a couple of miles each time along with biking a couple of days a week for several miles putting me in better shape. Also I have a nicer camera that I really enjoy using and Isle Royale is a great place for beautiful photographs adding to my excitement to be there.

A portion of the beautiful trails on Isle Royale

If I do this right the training backpack will be heavier than my actual pack making it seem like no big deal to carry all day long. Add to this increased muscle strength to be able to carry the weight while working around rocks and tree roots, using trekking poles to keep better balance and weight distribution, and bringing fewer items reducing my overall back pack weight should combine to make a fun hiking experience.

Sleeping in the solitude of Isle Royale can be difficult to get use to.

A few weeks after returning from Isle Royale the last time I began to go through our supplies and determined how I would pack differently another time to reduce the weight I was carrying. It was amazing how much different things felt for each pound we removed either in food or water weight making the pack lighter. We definitely brought too much food last time and heavy food at that. That is an easy place to reduce weight by several pounds. Also, sleeping gear last time was heavy lugging small air mattresses, cotton sheets, and blankets. This time a sleeping bag, light sleeping pad, and maybe a small pillow which should eliminate more weight. My only concern is increased weight in camera equipment so I will have to watch that part. As far as sleeping goes, I know there won’t be great sleep so I’m prepared for that so it should be less of a concern.

One of the Entrance Stations of Isle Royale

Training for hiking in the Rocky Mountains in 2016 and how successful it was and I was at completing a couple of 10 mile + hikes at higher elevations has proven to me that I can adequately train for this trip and go the distance with my backpack. In fact, at times I would even forget I was carrying my backpack loaded with clothing, food, and water all as a result of training before hand. The pack will be heavier this time as it will include more food, a tent, sleeping gear, and probably more clothing so I understand what I need to do to prepare. I’m so looking forward to this but there is much to do before then.

Photos, Troy's Blog

Some of the Wildlife on Isle Royale

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Canadian Geese

Canadian Geese should be expected this close to Canada so not a big surprise.

Caterpillar of a Luna Moth

This is a caterpillar of a Luna Moth. I’ve only seen one other caterpillar like this and still haven’t seen the moth itself.

Painted Lady Butterfly

I believe this is the Painted Lady Butterfly. Fairly common in this part of the country.

A Squirrel Eating

Somehow squirrels made it to the island. They were always eager to help with meals. Unfortunately for this one we didn’t leave anything behind as feeding the animals in a national park is not allowed.

A Proud Seagull

Seagulls are fairly common. I just liked how this one was posing appearing very proud.

A Duck Swimming

There are a multitude of ducks around Isle Royale. I believe this is a Mallard enjoying the morning sun.

A Rabbit Grazing

Another animal that I can’t quite grasp how they got to the island. They must have stowed away on a boat at one time.

A Mother Duck and Her Babies

We enjoyed watching this group of ducks. When we first saw them we could only see the mother swimming. After watching for a few minutes one of the babies popped up from under the surface of the water, then another, and then the other 3 or 4. It was entertaining to watch as they would swim on the surface for a minute or two and then dive into the water staying under until the surface was calm and there was no sign they were there. All of a sudden they would begin reappearing in the blink of an eye.

A Moose and Her Two Calves

Of course one of the more popular animals on Isle Royale are moose. We were fortunate to see this mother with her two calves stroll right in front of our campsite. There was another moose with her calf that met us on one of the trails causing a slight delay because those who know understand that the moose owns the area they are walking on. It is not considered a good idea to confront a moose, especially one with a calf. Some of the other wildlife on this island include foxes and wolves. We did not get to see either one. It is my understanding that the foxes are sneaking creatures finding creative ways to steal campers stuff so it may not be a bad thing that we did not see any.

Exploring, Troy's Blog

Thunder Bay From the Island

Thunderbay Cananda at Night

The typical first reaction to this photograph is “What a beautiful sunset or sunrise!” People are never fully sure which one it is. Once it is explained to them that this was taken at night, they are often shocked. This photograph was taken at the same time of night as the one below showing all of the stars and the Milky way. Isn’t it amazing just how much light a city the size of Thunder Bay in Ontario Canada can give off? This photo is taken from one of our campsites on Isle Royale.

One of my expectations when traveling to Isle Royale National Park was that the nights would be extremely dark especially when there is no moonlight. I was very surprised to find this much light in what was suppose to be such an excluded location. The photo below shows how clear the stars can be when looking straight up into the wondrous night sky. There are so many people that never get the opportunity to see all of the stars and everything that is going on above us. It was incredible to see just how many satellites there are orbiting the Earth. As a bonus we were privileged to see some of the Perseid Meteor Shower while gazing into the twinkling lights above.

A Gorgeous Night Sky

Backpacking, New Experiences, Troy's Blog

Backpacking Tips Continued….

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-Take a moment to realize how little you actually need to live while you’re hiking and surviving on only the things you can carry on your back. There are so many distractions in life that we begin to believe are necessary filling houses with so much stuff to occupy our time. It’s nice to live in a simple manner if only for a few days. These few days of simple living can also serve as reminder to appreciate the comforts of home.

-One aspect of taking a backpacking trip that no one mentioned to me ahead of time was training for it. Adding a 40 pound backpack to your weight instantly puts a lot of stress on your body especially while walking up and down hills, over rocks and trees, and any other obstacles on the trail. Some methods of training include putting on the pack and running, using a Stairmaster while wearing the pack, or just go hiking on local trails with your pack on. You make think this is not necessary or be a little concerned about what people are thinking as they see you training with a backpack but it will make a huge difference on how much you enjoy your backpacking experience. After completing the first hiking trip I entered a conversation with more experience backpackers on what they do to get ready for the physical endurance required. Two of these included ex Marines that agreed backpacking is tougher than the training in the military regarding carry packs. In the military training may include running with a 40 pound pack for 10 miles but these miles are on flat, smooth surfaces. The trail is very rarely flat and smooth!

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-Take a few moments and just be. What does this mean? Sit or stand still and close your eyes to listen to all the activity that is going on around you. The breeze moving leaves, critters rustling around, birds fluttering, a deer off in the distance. After a few minutes open your eyes to the amazing vista you came to visit. Just listen and feel yourself breathing: your heart pumping, lungs inhaling and exhaling the fresh air, your muscles aching reminding you of the feats your accomplishing. Realize how few people actually get to experience this solitude of the wilderness. People call these the simple pleasures in life. I believe these are reminders of the great and necessary things in life.

I hope these tips help you understand what is involved in a backpacking trip so that you are better prepared and most of all enjoy your first experience.

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To read more about my first experience check out these articles:

An Easy National Parks Trip?

Isle Royale Preparations Update

A Night on Isle Royale…or Three

Backpacking, New Experiences, Troy's Blog

Some Tips for First Time Backpackers into the Wilderness

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Hitting the Trail for the First Time

If you’ve never been on an overnight backpacking trip before but have the urge to see what it’s all about like I did, here’s some tips from my first experience.

-Every backpacker is looking for 3 things from their gear:

1. Quality to last

2. Lightweight for easier carrying

3. Inexpensive

Pick 2 out of 3 because getting all 3 is very unlikely

What?! I Have to Fit All of This Into My Backpack?

-Realize that for your first time out your are going to be carrying a lot of weight for a couple of reasons. First, you will most likely over pack for your trip simply because you have never done this before and are unsure of exactly what you will need and what you can live without. Being caught in a rainstorm without rain gear or running out of food during a hike are not going to make your trip fun. Second, acquiring lightweight gear is something that takes a number of trips to accomplish due to the expense of it so for the first time you will likely have equipment that is reduced cost but heavier to carry. Some options for finding good lightweight gear include borrowing it from someone you know that has it or renting gear from an outfitter.

Duct Tape Fix

-bring a partial roll of duct tape. This stuff comes in a variety of colors and patterns now instead of just the good old grey to make it a little more fun to use. Ultimately you want this as it can be a versatile fix it tool. If something breaks or rips on your tent, clothing, or hiking boots duct tape can get you through your trip. In a pinch you could make a rope out of it by twisting long pieces of tape together or use it as a medical bandage.

Duct-tape-dressing-for-tropical-sores

-when planning your meals, try to plan a couple of meals that don’t require cooking each day especially if that day requires a lot of hiking. This accomplishes a couple of things. First, you save on fuel. Second, and probably more importantly you save water and time. Cooking a meal requires water to cook with and clean with. Cleaning is the more water and time intensive task. Once everyone is finished eating a warm meal the dishes need to be washed with the wash and rinse water needing to be strained away from water or trails in an effort to leave no trace for wildlife and other hikers to find. This requires filtering more water to clean with. All in all cooking a meal requires time and energy that can be spent on the trail. I took the time to cook breakfast, lunch, and dinner for my first backpacking trip. Next time I will plan on more breakfast bars and snacks with a warm meal only once a day for some of those days. In addition, food to be cooked generally adds more weight to your pack.

How Does This Stove Work?

-Plan a practice backpacking trip a few weeks before the real thing. Go to a nice campground that’s not to far from a store or restaurant in case you forgot to pack something preferably with a river or lake so you can test out your water purification methods. Your back yard doesn’t count because it is to easy to go in the house to get stuff. This accomplishes a number of things. It forces you to have all of your equipment you think you’ll need with enough time to make adjustments before going somewhere with nothing available except what your carrying. This gives you practice in real conditions with your equipment to make sure it all works the way you want it to and figure out how to best use it. Also, this is on opportunity to figure out how to pack your backpack and how much it’s going to weigh. The most important thing this does is give you confidence in your ability to successfully prepare for a backpacking trip in the solitude of the wilderness.

National Parks, Troy's Blog

Isle Royale part III

Taking the Trail by Huginnin Cove

The first portion of this trail follows the shoreline of Lake Superior giving amazing vistas demanding a moment of your time to take in all the sight has to offer. There are many places along this trail begging you to stop and see what nature has created. Unfortunately this also means more time with a full backpack strapped to you each time you give in to natures majesty. Each ache and pain in your body asks that you keep moving so that this heavy load can be taken off. Each person has to decide which portion of this battle will win. I gave in to the natural creations knowing that the pain will go away but the memories will be there for a long time. I would have regretted not taking in this part of the island. As the trail turned inward to cross the island we began to ascend up a long hill being greeted with a light rain shower. This was no real surprise as we could see the clouds off in the distance while walking along the shore. Wendigo Mine

Near the top of this hill the rain subsided but the mosquitoes began targeting us for lunch. These mosquitoes where persistent for much of the trail encouraging a faster pace. Our group split into two during this trail: a faster group and a little more relaxed pace keeping in contact with the use of two-way radios. Each group continued on the trail going up and over rocks, around water, and on to our final destination taking a moment to explore an old copper mine along the way. The first group reached Washington Creek and secured the same shelter we used earlier. Our second group had a little more interesting trek. After stopping to explore the Wendigo Mine, they came upon a moose blocking the trail. Slowly backing away as anyone who has encountered a moose knows that they own whatever territory there on. After backing away it was decided to remove the packs as who knows how long the moose would be here and it would be easier to blend in to the trees without the additional weight if that need should arise. After about 15 minutes the moose moved on along with her calf allowing this group to continue towards and eventually reaching Washington Creek.

Tracks Left Behind From the Mine

Everyone was glad to be back at this first campsite quickly removing the packs and resting a few minutes before setting up camp for the last night. The night was cool and again treated us to a sky filled with stars. Our next morning consisted of eating and packing up getting ready to board the Sea Hunter III for a return trip to the mainland. Once again the morning was beautiful and sun drenched giving us one last day with amazing weather. Our younger participants became Junior Rangers once again and where ready to shove off after four days of extreme camping. If you can believe it, this was done with children from 7 to 12 years of age who all carried at least some items as far as they could. A learning experience for all. Just imagine how little we can actually live on and how little we need to survive compared to everything we desire in everyday life. Even living on this little, there were and are people who live on less!

The Sea Hunter III

New Experiences, Troy's Blog

Isle Royale part II

Hitting the Trail

We were off to the next destination which was just over four miles away while carrying 40 pounds or more of camping equipment and food. While researching backpacking it was recommended to carry a maximum of 20% of your body weight in your pack. Ours seemed slightly higher than that which appeared to be more common amongst the other hikers on the island. 20% would certainly have been more comfortable and easier on our bodies. The scenery was quite nice and changed along the way however after a couple of miles of walking up and down hills with all this weight the scenery became less important. Finally after five hours of hiking we arrived at our destination and where able to take the packs off for an extended period of time. This did include stopping for lunch and a couple of other snack breaks so it was not constant walking. After some recuperation it was time to set up camp for the night and enjoy our surroundings.

Huginnin Cove

Huginnin Cove was without a question worth the hike. We had Lake Superior on two different sides of us with trees and rock formations everywhere else along with plenty of peace and solitude. The landscape was spectacular even when you’re exhausted from getting there. Listening to the waves of the lake crash against the rocks surrounding the shoreline while taking in the surroundings was an amazing experience. Off in the distance we could see the shores of Canada and at times see the city of Thunder Bay. At this camping area there was no pre-built shelter, running water, or flush toilets so it was more extreme camping. Our evening meal was prepared while watching the sunset across the water. As we finished cleaning up for the evening the stars light up the sky with no moon to interfere. This happened to occur at the same time as the Perseid Meteor Shower was winding down so not only did we get to star gaze but we were treated to shooting stars and numerous satellites crossing the sky. This was the experience I was hoping for!

The Milkyway and a Satellite

Our next morning was beautiful and sunny giving some incentive to get up and enjoy the day. We were much slower in emerging from the tent even with this nice sunny day as there were many sore muscles and joints along with the knowledge that it was another day of hiking with all this extra stuff strapped to our backs. Eventually we made breakfast and cleaned the dishes and packed everything away into our packs in an effort to head back to Washington Creek. There are two ways to get from Hugginnin Cove to Washington Creek. We explored one of those the previous day so decided it was time to take the second trail today. A very good decision as the scenery was much better and the trail slightly easier.

A Beautiful Morning on Lake Superior

For the conclusion of this post click to continue…

National Parks, Troy's Blog

A Night on Isle Royale…or Three

Gorgeous Isle Royale

A trip to Isle Royale National Park is different than many other parks. It is one of the least visited parks for good reason… getting there is a little more difficult because you can’t drive there. This national park is on an island located in Lake Superior and is at least 15 miles from shore. There are only two ways onto this park: boat or airplane. We chose to take a 1.5 hour boat ride from Grand Portage, MN on the Sea Hunter III to the Windigo side of the island. Now once you get to the Island what are you going to do? There is the short day trip that many people utilize and spend about 4 hours exploring Isle Royale before returning to the mainland. If you decide to stay longer you will need to spend the night. Be prepared as there is only one small resort area which is likely booked and requires getting on the right boat to get there as it is on the opposite side of the island from Windigo. The last option is camping. We chose to camp for three nights allowing us the opportunity to explore the island a little further.

The View Outside of Our Campsite at Washington Creek

Our first night we decided to make it relatively easy and stay at the nearest camp area known as Washington Creek. This location is easy as there where shelters available which are enclosed on three sides and screened on the forth side allowing for air movement while keeping out bugs and other curious critters. Also, water suitable for drinking is nearby and a short distance away there are bathrooms with running water. Our shelter was right on the banks of Washington Creek giving us a relaxing view when waking up. One of the only downfalls of this camping area is the noise coming from boats, airplanes, and a higher population of people than most other areas. Well, a lot of noise compared to the solitude experienced elsewhere but substantially less than even a small town.

Some of the Noise Near Washington Creek

The next morning involved grabbing some oatmeal for breakfast then cleaning up and packing it all away in preparation for our hike to Huginnin Cove to spend the next night. Did I mention that you need to bring in all of your supplies and bring them all back out with you again as this area is designated as ‘Leave No Trace’? That means backpacking all of your necessary items if you do not have a boat of your own docked somewhere around the island. We could have spent three nights in Washington Creek and just did day hikes without all of our gear but our purpose in traveling to all these different parks is to experience new and different areas so we decided to try our hand at real backpacking. Thankfully we did a trial run a few weeks earlier allowing us to be more prepared for multiple nights living out of backpacks.

The Trail

For more go on to part II…