Another Lake Michigan Labor Day

September 7, 2016 Troy

A year ago I was visiting a friend in Michigan and decided to venture to a beach along Lake Michigan for the afternoon of Labor Day weekend. Surprisingly a year later I’m back doing the same thing only this time from the Illinois side. We met friends for Labor Day weekend in Chicago to explore some of the city sites.

After taking in a drive-in movie, an American tradition that is unfortunately losing popularity, we arrived back at our hotel early the next morning. We awoke, grabbed some breakfast, and drove downtown somewhat sleep deprived to visit Shedds Aquarium and spend the afternoon on the beach before getting some authentic Chicago style pizza. At least that was the plan in our sleep stupor.

Before leaving the hotel we quick checked ticket information for the aquarium and found a $15 service fee added to each ticket to buy online for that day. Opting the stand in line for tickets we sped off towards downtown Chicago to the lake front and Shedds Aquarium. After some time wrestling with traffic we arrived at Soldier Field to park for the day and hiked the short distance to Shedds.

Arriving at the entrance we saw the line that has formed to gain entrance into this well known destination. Following that line further and further back we realized the hike was not quite over. Amazing how long of a line for entrance into an aquarium. I’ve never witnessed a wait like this for fish before. After almost three hours in line we made it to the ticket counter. While standing in line with the afternoon slipping by we discussed purchasing tickets for the next day as the time left in this day was likely not enough to see everything desired. Asking about this option we were informed they could not sell tickets for the next day but we could purchase them online for the same amount as long as we bought them before tomorrow.

While grabbing a seat and some ice cream we decided to purchase tickets using our phones for the next day and what do you know? There was no $15 service fee. Had we only known that before today all of this waiting in line would have been avoided. Now that the aquarium was out of the plans for this day we opted to walk the Magnificent Mile and see the sights of downtown. From the aquarium we headed towards Navy Pier along the shore of Lake Michigan, turned at the famous Chicago River and headed a few blocks into downtown enjoying the riverfront development which is much improved from just a few years ago.

Once at Michigan Avenue we headed back towards the aquarium passing several street performers before stopping at Millennium Park to see the Bean and listen to some jazz in the amphitheater as there was a jazz festival taking place for the weekend. Every time I’ve looked over a picture of the famous Bean I’ve always thought is was kind of stupid. This polished metal bean sitting near the waterfront of downtown Chicago. I never really understood the interest in it. Seeing it in person I enjoyed watching all of these people excited over the different ways the Bean warps your reflection and the reflection of the city. This made it more interesting and fun to see and now I have a better appreciation for it.

Our day ended with a Chicago style pizza and the last fireworks show from Navy Pier for the summer. A beautiful night for fireworks but yet another late evening returning to the hotel for some much needed rest before waking early again the next day for another attempt and Shedds Aquarium.

Armed with already purchased tickets we entered Shedds the next day without having to wait in line. If you’re ever planning on going and seeing everything in the aquarium, I highly recommend getting tickets online at least a day ahead of time. It could save a lot of time standing around viewing the city skyline. They have one of the best aquatic shows which include beluga whales and Pacific white-sided dolphins that I’ve seen. There was also a stingray petting tank which is seasonal. Overall we spent over 6 hours taking in the exhibits and shows enjoying many different displays.

This day ended with a stop at a nearby beach to take in the waves of Lake Michigan on a beautiful Chicago afternoon. Ohh, and for lunch it was Chicago style hotdogs. How could I forget about that? There is so much more to see but we had a nice time for a Lake Michigan Labor Day! Will there be another one next year?

Adventures, Backpacking, Rocky Moutain National Park, Troy's Blog

Exploring Flattop Mountain

September 3, 2016 Troy 1 Comment

Back in 2009 we visited Rocky Mountain National Park to hike to Flattop Mountain Trail and we did that successfully. Unfortunately that was done after a long day of exploring so there wasn’t much energy to continue further. I’ve wanted to attempt the trail again if the opportunity presented itself. Well, recently we made the opportunity happen and once again found ourselves on the trail. Surprisingly the beginning of the trail looks very different from what it looked like seven years ago as proven in the next two photos.

The top picture was taken in 2009 and the next one taken just a few weeks ago. I can find now similarities to them which made it a little challenging to begin this hike since there wasn’t really recognition of the beginning of the trail causing me to question if we were on the right path or not. Especially since it was still dark when we got to this point. Trusting in the trail signs we pressed onward towards the top.

Our hike on Flattop Mountain began at 4:30am as we passed Bear Lake. The scene is pictured above. In the dark, armed with flashlights, our journey on this mountain trail began to climb towards to top. In a short time we began to see light on the horizon however the trail swallowed by trees continued to be dark requiring artificial light sources to make our way over rocks and tree roots as we went up, up, up, to the sky.

As we continued on this trail we could begin to feel the effects of the ever thinning air making it more difficult to breath and hike at a fast pace. Increasing our breaks while we trekked higher the trees began to decrease in size indicating the approaching tree line where they can no longer grow in the cool mountain air. Daylight finally penetrated this forest trail just as we broke above the trees bringing spectacular views of the mountains surrounding us with Emerald lake in the valley below. Our climb began below this lake and now look how high above it we are. Progress.

Marmots appeared from the rocks in the mountain to greet us as we passed their homes. They made for a more interesting hike once reaching the tundra of the alpine zone on Flattop Mountain. Watching as they climbed in and out of boulders and finally on top of them to grab the warmth of the morning sun before gathering food for the day was extremely entertaining.

They would definitely not be outdone by their smaller tundra mates – the Picas. These smaller alpine mammals would give a sharp squeak but would not always come into view as they moved between the rocks and boulders. If you watched long enough there would be a glimpse of movement and out would come one of these soft Picas running across the surface as they gathered portions of plants to store in their nests giving another squeak as if to say good morning while we passed.

After several hours of hiking and a number of breaks to catch our breath we reached the summit of Flattop Mountain. I always imagine mountains as these immovable pieces of solid stone reaching towards to sky. It surprises me as we walk the top of the mountain that the top is scattered stones and boulders showing they are not as solid as originally perceived. The elements continue to work on these mountains breaking them apart slowly over time. For now it’s a great challenge to climb to the top of these massive rock formations.

In our picture above you see Hallet Peak to the right which is the next mountain over and one we briefly discussed climbing but decided this was enough for today as the real challenge rests in the left of this photo – Longs Peak. A hike for another day. With our goal achieved for today we spent some time exploring and taking in the sights of our amazing surroundings, and watching some of the animals as they went about their business for the day.

After a little rest and energizing food we ventured to the nearby Continental Divide Trail. I’ve read about people hiking this entire trail covering over 3,000 miles from Mexico to Canada and wanted to walk a little of this beautiful trail. There were large cairns marking the trail most likely to show where it is during the spring and fall when snow could cover it making a more challenging hike and increased likelihood of getting lost. Further exploration on the CDT was tempting but it was time to head back down the mountain. With our destination successfully found we began the descent back to Bear Lake.

Adventure, Exploring, Nebraska, Troy's Blog

Scott’s Bluff

August 28, 2016 Troy

Sounds like a high stakes card game doesn’t it. In this case it’s Scotts Bluff National Monument named after Hiram Scott who died here. While driving through the plains and fields of Nebraska for a significant time the landscape begins to become a little monotonous making any change stand out. In the panhandle of Nebraska lies these beautiful white bluffs. Kind of an entrance to the mountainous terrain of the Rocky Mountains.

Our family was on our way to Colorado to explore these mountains and stopped near Scotts Bluff National Monument for the night so decided to learn more about the significance of this national park. It was a beautiful sunny Midwestern late afternoon with temperatures hovering around 90 degrees Fahrenheit and a gentle breeze to keep us cool.

The first stop was in the Visitor’s Center to pay our entrance fee and learn more about the significance of the area. In this place passed several important trails in history including the Oregon Trail, Mormon Trail, California Trail, and a Pony Express route for a short time. While these are all significant pieces in United States history, the Oregon Trail was the portion that intrigued me the most. I don’t know if it’s simply because the first computer game I played was called Oregon Trail on an Apple computer or because of the historical significance of people migrating west on this long and difficult trail.

After this educational stop we progressed to the Summit Road leading to beautiful views on top of the bluffs. Once at the top we took about an hour to hike around the top looking at different views which enhanced all that was recently learned in the Visitor’s Center as well as just enjoying the landscape from this vantage point. As we finished taking in the sights on the bluff we decided a trip to check in at our hotel nearby and refresh after a long day of travel was in order along with dinner before returning to walk along the Oregon Trail as sunset engulfed the horizon.

As the air began to cool and the sun relented it’s midday power we returned to find the park shutting down for the day with only the parking lot left open to explore the Oregon Trail. A very humbling experience to walk along these wagons depicting the horse and ox drawn trains of people and all their belongings attempting to find a better life in the west. Difficult to imagine traveling about 20 miles a day and having to obtain food, water, and shelter each night for the many months it took to reach the western destinations. Certainly an evening such as this was one of the easier days to make this trip but these types of nights only lasted a few months. Not long enough to complete their journey.

What a beautiful way to end another day along our journey west!

Exploring, South Dakota, Troy's Blog

The Infamous Corn Palace.

August 20, 2016 Troy

On a recent road trip in the upper Midwest we had the privilege of staying in Mitchell, South Dakota and of course we had to see this years version of the Corn Palace. The theme was “Rock of Ages” and was almost complete at the time of our visit. On the front of the building there is a picture of a guitarist and Willie Nelson constructed out of pieces of grain. Moving around the building there is a mural of Elvis, a singer, piano, person playing guitar, singers, and dancers to finish off the adjacent wall.

Most of the lighter portions are created using corn cobs along with wheat stems bundled together and sorghum stems bundled together created to give a darker contrast all working together to form these giant pieces of art. This is a very time consuming and laborious process which they undertake every summer creating a new theme covering two sides of the building.

This marks the third time I’ve been to this popular attraction. The last time was about 6 years ago with my first visit occurring a little over 7 years ago on my first trip to South Dakota. One of the surprises for me this summer was the change in domes on top of the building. Previous domes where solid and painted yellow and green that I remember. I like the new ones better.

More modern and interesting allowing light to play off of the metal creating some nice effects. We didn’t see it at night but from pictures I searched the Corn Palace lights up beautifully with the new metal domes. Another nice addition since I last visited was a second floor balcony allowing more light inside due to large windows and the ability to walk outside on a nice day such as the one we visited on.

Adventure, Rocky Moutain National Park, Troy's Blog

Preparing for a Rocky Mountain Hike

August 13, 2016 Troy 1 Comment

Since exploring Rocky Mountain National Park in 2009 I’ve wanted to return as it is such a beautiful place. Our last trip was to hike to Flattop Mountain Trail which is the location on our National Parks Monopoly Board. In 2009 we made it to the sign and returned to the car. I’ve always felt that I would like to hike the trail in its entirety someday.

That someday will happen this summer. Or at least we are going to be back in the park and hopefully the weather cooperates allowing me to hike to the top of Flattop Mountain which is a 10 mile hike round trip. Typically 10 miles isn’t a concern for me but it gets a little more difficult with the incline/decline and altitude in a mountain setting. Flattop peaks at just over 12,000 feet altitude and while this has an impact on me it wasn’t very bad the last time I was at this height.

In addition to Flattop Mountain I’ve added in the challenge of hiking to the top of Long’s Peak which is a 15 mile trip and tops out just over 14,000 feet in altitude. A few years ago I would have never considered doing this as I’m not in physical condition to do so. After reading a few long distance hiker’s blog I began to consider it and figure out what it would take for me to do. The idea of hiking to the top of the tallest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park, which I’ve looked at from an airplane, and see it from the other direction is a challenge I want to take on.

In order to be successful at these hikes I’ve been in training since January to build my legs and also try and increase my lung capacity as much as possible to prepare for the thinner air at higher altitudes. This training has included hiking several miles at a time carrying a 45 pound training pack which is at least double the weight of what my actual backpack will be. Hopefully the actual pack will feel quite a bit lighter so I don’t mind carrying it for a much longer distance. The training pack also put a heavier load on my legs building those muscles a bit more.

Additionally I’ve been working with inline skates and biking with the occasional walking up and down stairs for 45 – 60 minutes with a loaded backpack on. Some days have been more challenging than other to go work out just like it is for anybody. In January I would go out on the trail even at temperatures of –12 degrees F and in the summer heat and humidity when I would return home so full of sweat I looked as though I had jumped into a lake. During these time I just needed to think about climbing mountain trails and my motivation would quickly return and I could walk faster or pedal harder forgetting about the conditions I was training in.

The time has come to see if all of that training will pay off in the form of an easier and successful hike. Certainly some of the mountain trails, especially near the top of Long’s Peak, have been a little intimidating but I’ve seen enough video and photos of the trail and have enough confidence in my abilities that as long as the weather remains favorable I’ll make it to the top. If the weather does not cooperate than the risk does not become worth the reward of summiting Long’s Peak and I will turn around which is why the planned start time is around 2:30am to increase the odds of completing my goals. It’ll be fun either way I’m sure as there is nothing but amazing scenery all around.

Photos, Troy's Blog, wildlife

Great Blue Herons

August 6, 2016 Troy

Ever since taking the photo below of a relatively close up of a Great Blue Heron I’ve wanted to find an opportunity to do so again once I upgraded cameras to the Sony mirrorless NEX-F3.

Unfortunately every time I seemed to be getting close for a nice picture of a heron it would get spooked and fly away all the while squawking at me eliminating any hope of capturing an image. This summer I found a couple of opportunities for photographs. While learning how to become a part of the landscape for hunting purposes, these skills were not adequate for pictures of this somewhat elusive bird. Keep in mind I have limited distance with my zoom lenses as the bigger ones require a fair amount of money which I am unwilling to spend as this is just a hobby. However I found a larger lens for relatively low expense by renting it for a couple of days at a time. The image below was taken with a 150-600mm telephoto lens which brings wildlife considerable closer than my little 210mm zoom lens.

With that in mind, the photograph below was taken using my little 210mm lens. One of the skills I’m working on is hiding amongst my surroundings in order to achieve better results and it seems to be working. Of course finding the right location helps as well. The heron below was taken at a local lake frequented by such birds increasing my chances of getting closer to one. Here it is captured just as it spotted something moving in the water. Moments later it successfully caught something to eat.

On the same lake but another location I caught this one sharing the area with a trumpeter swan and some ducks. I would like to have been closer but I still enjoy being able to photograph a heron before if flies away.

This next group of pictures were taken from a dock where the heron was obviously use to people being around making the potential for pictures easier. The next four photos are a sequence of a heron diving for food. In the photo below it saw something to strike at.

In the next picture the heron is leaping into the water attacking a potential meal where it was almost complete submerged for a time.

Below is of the heron shaking water from its feathers after being soaked by the water. I couldn’t tell if it actually caught what it was after making its efforts worthwhile.

Finally the heron is back standing on the log it began on to begin the search for food all over again.

My last image shows a heron with wings fully expanded as it takes off right in front of me in the evening sun. This particular heron flew away and returned to this same area multiple times over a few hours given the opportunity to practice photographing herons and learning how they act in this situation. I could identify this heron because of the feather or two missing from its left wing. For much of the time I was about 25 feet away from it just to give you an idea how close they have to be for a 210mm zoom lens to fill a frame with a heron. A very enjoyable time at the lake to spite the mosquitoes trying to distract me.

Adventure, State Parks, Troy's Blog

Mystery Cave

July 31, 2016 Troy

A few years ago I searched for caves of Minnesota, after exploring Mammoth Cave in Kentucky, and found Mystery Cave. This is a state park which offers tours through the largest caverns of the cave located in the bluffs of Southeastern Minnesota. We’ve attempted to plan a visit when we first discovered it but plans fell through so we kept it on a list of “someday” things to do. Fortunately this “someday” event actually was achieved this summer. We hosted a French student for a few weeks and thought this would be an enjoyable place to show some of the many faces of Minnesota. He had never been in a cave before and was fascinated with it.

Caves are very fascinating places and this one was no different. As is common, it is cool in Mystery Cave which felt nice on a hot summer afternoon. After descending a couple of flights of stairs we were transported into another world. Here is complete darkness surrounded by layers and layers of stone carved over thousands of years of water carrying away each piece it can grab until it can no longer flow through this area. These natural tunnels continue to transform yet today as water from the surface still drips through these rocks altering their environment.

As this water drips down the stone walls it carries with it minerals from above which separate from the water as it flows down these walls creating these veins throughout the caves giving them an appearance of life. The veins of Mystery Cave give it a beautiful and amazing ambiance adding to the wonder around each new cavern. What will this cave look like in a thousand years from now? What will be the same, if anything? What did the cave look like a thousand years ago?

This is the first cave I’ve toured that I saw an underground lake. While it was smaller than I was prepared for it was incredibly clear and had a very deceptive depth that could only be realized by shining light through the surface and moving it around. Even then the deception required a focused realization and understanding of what you are viewing. We continued through some of the narrow passageways returning to the beginning and climbed out to natural daylight squinting while adjusting to it once again. It was cool enough inside and hot and humid enough outside that everyone’s glasses fogged immediately upon exiting the cave making those with corrective lenses laugh as this usually happens during the winter, not summer.

Adventure, Big Bend National Park, Troy's Blog

The Lost Mind Trail

July 23, 2016 Troy

This is what we would call the trail but the real name is Lost Mine Trail which is in Big Bend National Park. It’s listed distance is 4.70 miles however my hiking app registered 5.30 miles round trip. The difference could be all the little side trails to see different views we ventured on that all added up to the extra half mile.

We drove a short distance to the trailhead and as soon as we emerged from the car we were in awe of the incredible views surrounding us bringing energy and excitement to get on the trail and climb higher to see even more vistas. This was a trail that was most recommended to us and the trailhead views lived up to those recommendations but could the rest of the trail compete with these amazing sights.

Fortunately the trail is well traveled making it easier to follow but it’s littered with rocks to step over so as long as you are capable of walking at an incline for several miles while carefully navigated over and around the rocks. Staying on the trail in this climate is very important in preventing severed erosions during heavy rains which can wash out portions of the trail. These ‘shortcuts’ are tempting but not worth the potential damage for those hiking another day.

As the trail continued higher and higher the views continued to be impressive making for distracted hiking and slowing down the pace to get to the top although a water break from time to time is a good idea allowing you to stop and view your surroundings. In addition to the desert mountain scenery we were confronted with cactus’s beginning to bloom adding to this great trail experience.Yet another distraction pulling attention away from getting to the top of the mountain.

At different points along the way we were joined by other critters, mostly birds, looking as though asking how our hike was going and if we were enjoying the trail. Yes we were having fun for the most part. Unfortunately one of our group had inadequate footwear making the stones on the trail feel as though piercing into their feet with each step. If that’s the worst part than it’s a successful hike.

Arriving at the top the trail levels out providing a sense of relief from continually climbing up, up, up towards the sky. Time to sit and taking in the vast mountainous landscape on this bright, sunny morning and join the others doing the same thing. While taking in the views I got the first opportunity of seeing a road runner closer up just before it decided to jump off the ledge and out of sight forever.

The top of the Lost Mine Trail is actually quite large allowing many people to take in this high point without really creating problems moving back and forth among the boulders. There are many different view points to take in all amazing each to their own making this a nice way to spend an hour and possibly even enjoying a picnic surrounded by rocks and boulders rising from the ground. Watching a sunrise or sunset from this location would be breathtaking I’m sure as long as you’re not alone and with flashlights because the hike to get here or leave here would be in darkness. And ohh yah, there are these little things called mountain lions which tend to be more active during these times.

During most of the time on top of this trail I kept looking at this rock which kind of looks like Homer Simpson and wondered how to climb up to the gap under his chin. I just couldn’t find a good path and without ropes it didn’t seem safe to both get there and climb up the rock. After spending some time exploring the area I decided it wasn’t a safe venture so kind of gave up on the idea. What kind of example would that be for the kids?

By the way, challenge accepted.

For more stories of Big Bend you can read posts on the Rio Grande and Window Trail

Photos, Troy's Blog

Dragonflies

July 17, 2016 Troy

Early this summer, the opportunity to get some close up photographs of dragonflies presented itself and fortunately I had the camera along. This first one was quite a surprise as I was at the edge of a lake photographing the occasional duck but really wanting to take pictures of a pair of beavers that frequented the area. At one point I was casually looking around when I saw a dragonfly just hanging on a tree motionless. Further inspection showed it had just emerged from it water insect body transformed into a flying insect. If you look closely you can kind of make out the shell which it had previously hosted.

Dragonflies are unable to take flight for some time after emerging from the water as they need time for the wings to expand and dry which is why this particular one was still for awhile. If I had noticed it climbing up the tree initially there may have been some interesting pictures of it’s emergence and change of form. Something to look for in the future.

After some time had passed it unfolding the new wings in an effort to continue drying them in preparation for it’s first flight. Thankfully there wasn’t much else happening so I was able to practice my photography with close ups trying different lenses to see what I like best and which angles seem to be more interesting. The sun was illuminating the dragonfly quite brightly so light was not an issue making it a little easier. I’m sure this insect was wondering at which point I was going to cause it harm believing everything I was doing was in preparation of a meal. Must have been a huge relief when I left as there wasn’t anything the dragonfly could do except walk a little on the tree.

A short time later there was another opportunity with a dragonfly clinging to one of the orchids decorating my front door. At first I just admired it waiting for it to take flight on it’s pursuit of dinner. After a few minutes I decided to fetch the camera and once again practice dragonfly photography especially after noticing some of the beautiful colors in the abdomen which are more visible in the large picture at the top. This insect also allowed me several minutes of picture taking and then decided it was time to move on before something undesirable happened. In the upper Midwest it is a very unlikely situation to see a dragonfly enjoying the bloom of a moth orchid (phaleanopsis) which are tropical plants.

National Parks, Troy's Blog

Hot Springs

July 11, 2016 Troy

Hot Springs National Park was a little surprising to me. I know that there are hot springs there and heard a little about bath house row but expected that much of the park consisted of natural areas with hiking trails through it. Usually there are entrances to the park with signs near the boundaries indicating your arrival.

In Hot Springs you drive into town and come upon bath house row which includes the visitor’s center and park sign. As we drove towards this park following our GPS navigation system it announced we had arrived. I looked up and there was bath house row immediately in front of us. Where were the hiking trails? As we continued to explore this National Park we found a scenic drive with overlooks, that we’ve become accustom to, since these bath houses were closed for the day.

During our exploration we discovered a couple of hot springs running out of the ground. It was surprising how hot the water is trickling from these springs as they steam in the cooling evening air. Even though we knew the water was warm we were unprepared for how warm – hot the water is. It averages 143 degrees Fahrenheit which is warmer than I thought it would be. A nice, unexpected treat as we wondered through the National Park on our first evening in the area.

The next morning we returned to bath house row just before they began opening for the day and wandered around looking at all these magnificent buildings built to provide hot, soothing baths before hot baths were commonplace. To be honest, when I first heard of bath house row I imagined more of a brothel type situation but learned that these bath houses where for relaxation and healing which was confirmed by the acknowledgement of the US Park Service maintaining this area. They probably wouldn’t do that if they were in fact brothels. My perception of the bath houses of Hot Springs was changed.

Once these buildings began opening we entered the Fordyce Bath House which is now the park visitor’s center and used to explain how bath houses operated and the services they provided. We began by learning about bath house row and some of the history of the bath houses lined up next to each other. Then we moved on to a changing and waiting area for use of the showers and bathtubs.

While walking around exploring the Fordyce Bath House we were able to see some of the showers and tubs people would pay to use for the hot water flowing from their faucets to soothe their aching muscles and sore joints. These were the first “hot tubs” and provided the basis for using hot water to relax and recover in.

It is interesting to see how many pipes and shut off handles were used in these bath house showers. Probably the basis for today’s more extravagant showers. It’s difficult for me to imagine what baths and showers would have been like without hot water heaters. Not very pleasant I would guess especially in the winter months.

Other people would opt for a steam bath so they would climb into these steam boxes where they would sit and have steam from these hot springs pumped into the boxes helping to heal sore muscles and joints. Any piece of these hot springs were considered beneficial and having healing properties. Today these types of therapy are in most house holds all thanks to water heaters.

Once their time in hot showers, warm baths, or steam chambers was complete they would take time to just sit and relax enjoying their reprieve from aches and pains. There were spaces created for doing just that with comfortable seating, soothing music playing, pool tables, fireplaces, or places in the warming sun to sit. For many people, these life recharging waters would be an all day event. Athletes began to visit these houses to help their recovery speed up because of the healing benefits of Hot Springs.

Gaining Life Experience