While off road driving in Canyonlands National Park the views were often spectacular. Frequently these sights became distracting while driving requiring a stop to get out of the Jeep and photograph the landscape. This spot on the trial shows the sandy 4 x 4 trail at the bottom of Elephant Canyon meandering through trees and rocks leading into the natural Needle rock sculptures this part of the National Park is known for.
Category Archives: Troy’s Blog
Canoeing in the BWCA
In order to camp in the Boundary Waters of Minnesota, a permit is needed and these can be challenging to get as they’re often reserved well in advance for the popular summer months. One alternative is to camp or stay in a lodge just outside of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area or BWCA. This was my choice for visiting this vast wilderness in the middle of June. While on a Northern Minnesota adventure with a friend from college, we spent a couple of days in one of the US Fish and Wildlife cabins in a Superior National Forest campground near one of the many entry points of the BWCA. There initially were no plans to rent a canoe and spend a day paddling in the Boundary Waters, but there really were no plans other than to relax in this beautiful place.
Early one morning I got up to watch the sunrise, hoping to see a moose in the water under the brightening sky. There were no moose but it was still an amazing sunrise in this beautiful wilderness. An occasional call from a distant loon interrupted the near silence on this peaceful and calm morning. As the sun climbed higher in the skies I realized it would be such a mistake to come all the way to the edge of the Boundary Waters and not spend some time exploring this pristine place. I’ve thought about an adventure in this area several times but have never actually pursued one. What is it like canoeing among these clear lakes and camping under the bright stars of this north country? Returning to the cabin I suggested we rent a canoe from a nearby outfitter and answer these questions. After making breakfast we packed up some supplies along with our fishing gear and headed out to Clearwater Lake for the day. After filling out the necessary permit and renting a canoe, we were off towards the solitude of the BWCA.
From the outfitter, you have to paddle about a quarter of the lake before entering the designated wilderness which really didn’t take long. The day before we had explored this area a little by vehicle and found a boat landing just outside of the BWCA. After passing that landing on this morning we knew it was a short distance to the protected area and we were now inside this often heard about place. A short time later we encounter the first campsite. It struck me by surprise there was a campsite that close to the edge of the Boundary Waters. This one was occupied so I would have to wait for another campsite to check out what they are like. Continuing on down Clearwater Lake, I spotted an area on the opposite side of the lake that appeared to be another camping area. Some of these are well hidden but once you have an idea of what you’re looking for you can start to spot some of the signs such as a worn area where others have taken their canoes out of the water. We pulled up to this place and confirmed it was a campsite. Getting out of the canoe and pulling it ashore, it was time to see a Boundary Waters Canoe Area campsite. From stories I had heard they generally have a clearing for the tent, a metal fire ring, and a pit toilet. The spot for tents and fire ring were obvious. Others had placed logs for a place to sit but where was the toilet? Searching some worn foot paths I soon found it. Just a toilet sitting on top of a dug out pit with no shelter or privacy other than trees and shrubs around it. Grabbing a snack and exploring for a few minutes and it was time to return to the water.
Eventually we made our way to the other end of the lake, fishing along the way, where another campsite existed just before needing to portage to another nearby lake. We spent some time at this campsite in order to eat and do a little fishing from shore. I did manage to catch one but it released itself from my hook and rolled all the way back into the water before I could catch it. While enjoying this spot I heard what sounded like thunder. Quickly making my way back to the canoe I could see storm clouds blowing in from behind us. I guess we’ll be waiting that out here before paddling back up the lake to the outfitter. Fortunately it wasn’t a strong storm and moved quickly overhead with a few flashes of lightning. Once we were sure it was safe to enter the water we began paddling back to end our time in this beautiful wilderness. There was one issue though. The storm had brought high winds which stayed once the weather had passed. Now we had to fight these in order to get back. It took most of our strength with no chance to rest to fight these winds for nearly the entire length of Clearwater Lake. We would pull into a tree near shore once in awhile to rest our arms for a few minutes but then it was back at it paddling at full strength. Before nightfall arrived we managed to get back to the outfitter, tired but satisfied with our Boundary Waters adventure. I hope to return someday and spend a little more time on these waters. Maybe even do a portage once to complete the experience.
Poison Spider
Our third trail was one we were initially very nervous about and hesitant to even attempt due to the difficulties and challenges presented from steep rock ledges and longer climbs on slick rock. After successfully navigating Elephant Hill and Top of the World with fewer difficulties than expected we decided to take a run at Poison Spider. A powerful, yet intimidating name for a trail. What would we encounter with a name like that? Making it to the trailhead and trail prep area brought us along the Colorado River running through a beautiful canyon causing us to slow down to admire the surroundings to enjoy the amazing sights created from thousands of years of geology and carving forming this masterpiece now before us. The trailhead almost came up too fast as the canyon continues on for miles and miles, but we were here for a purpose. And that purpose was an off-road challenge.
While getting the tires ready for another off road adventure we wondered around, striking up conversations with some of the other enthusiast also getting their vehicles ready for a Utah adventure sharing a camaraderie common among four wheeling. Everything now ready it was time to go. The trail begins with a difficult climb right off the bat on a narrow trail looking into this canyon we just drove through. Too close to the edge and it’s straight down to the valley floor. Not something we wanted to experience! Within minutes of starting we found ourselves in trouble. We’ve managed to do what we’ve been trying to avoid this whole time. Becoming centered on rocks keeping both front and back tires from getting enough traction to pull the vehicle over these rocks. Trying to move back and fourth only dug holes in the loose sand causing the problem to get worse. And to make it even more stressful, here come other off roaders behind us. Fortunately they were extremely helpful and immediately began working to get us free by digging out around the tires and placing rocks for them to hopefully grab onto and raise the vehicle up and over the ones hanging us up. After quite a bit of work and trying to get out of our predicament, we realized why we had gotten stuck in the first place – we were not in 4 wheel drive! Enacting this important feature and shifting the Jeep into first gear, it crawled right out as if to emphasize our mistake and add this stupidity to its tally of blunders we’ve made.
After being stuck at the beginning of Poison Spider we really questioned the intelligence of continuing on the most difficult trail we had planned to drive this week. With no place to really turn around and several other people behind us we forged on. Soon the trail began to have a familiar comfort of others around Moab with some unique challenges. Around some corners, steep rock ledges would appear requiring a closer examination of the trail before driving the vehicle over to avoid more problems for the Jeep to put on its list. Many were less complicated than originally thought as this four wheel, off road truck relatively easily climbed up and over each one giving more confidence in our adventure. And then we rounded a corner with a broken down machine to one side. After assisting them to get them back to the trailhead we were back at it, although a bit more cautious so as to not break something on our truck.
Eventually we arrived at the point I was most concerned about, a long climb up narrow slick rock with each tire hanging on rock edges by mere inches. Watching videos of this trail I saw other Jeeps tip over on this part of the trail. What would we do if our Jeep tipped? Fortunately there was little to be concerned about if you approach this smartly and take your time climbing up this V shaped hill. At a couple of points we thought the bead broke on a tire which would require a change once on more level ground but all tires were in tact and holding air bringing a sigh of relief. There were several other steep climbs which became a bit more concerning as rain showers moved into the area. Thankfully they only produced a few drops which quickly dried up so we could continue on this enjoyable trail. As mid day approached we wanted to find a nice spot to stop and grab a bite to eat. Fortunately Little Arch was nearby which is a fun rock feature found on Poison Spider. A perfect spot to get out of the Jeep and take in a few sights while getting some nourishment. Once lunch was complete we spent a little time taking some pictures of the arch and continued on our way back down towards the trailhead completing this fun off road trail. A really enjoyable trail which provided beautiful scenery, challenging off road climbs, and some new experiences to add to our Moab adventure. At this point in the trip the realization that we were near the end of this adventure began to set in. Fortunately there still was one more day to try another trail before leaving this big playground.
A Return to Isle Royale
It’s been too long since the last time backpacking on Isle Royale. A trip was planned a couple of years ago that had to be canceled but finally, this summer we were able to return. It’s a little weird writing that since the last time, in August 2012, I was very certain I never wanted to return and do another backpacking trip. Funny how things change. This time I was so excited to see the island again. To be immersed in it’s wilderness and to hike the route I originally wanted to hike the last time – The Feldtmann Loop. Thankfully we didn’t hike this route last time as it requires some dedication and is more physically challenging. I wouldn’t have enjoyed it. Carrying a very heavy pack and never having backpacked before would have made it an awful experience I think. Hopefully I’m better prepared with a little more knowledge and can enjoy such a physical adventure.
Waking up early after a late night of traveling to Grand Portage, if there was any sleep this past night, the nerves began to set in. Because there’s a time change just to the east of Grand Portage, our phones were reading a different time than the hotel clocks. Which one was right? We have to complete our packing and get to the ferry docks to begin a day of hiking. The trip takes about two hours which gets us to the island mid-morning. Will we be able to make camp at Feldtmann Lake before dark? How will we do hiking 9 miles with backpacks much heavier than I wanted. Mine was over 40 pounds and I was hoping to have it at 30 pounds or less. I remember being miserable with such a heavy pack the last time with a sore back in multiple places, sore feet, and legs and that was only 5 miles. We made it to the docks with plenty of time and even stopped for breakfast to eat on the way. Our packs were finally fully packed and loaded into the boats storage area and it was time to just enjoy this moment. I couldn’t tell if I was more excited or nervous. My youngest daughter was with me and she was somewhat hesitant to come on this trip to begin with. Would she enjoy it with the more extensive hikes and more weight? She was afraid to be the weak link in our hiking group and feared holding us back. I just wanted to have this time with her and for her to have a great and memorable experience. Sharing this time with her was something I had been really looking forward to so now it was time to just take in the moment and be thankful for this tremendous opportunity.
Just before boarding the crew informed us that the water temperature was in the low 40’s Fahrenheit and it would be a cold trip so bring some additional layers to keep warm if we had them. I grabbed my fleece coat for additional warmth but anything else would require unpacking so I decided to endure the couple of hours of gliding through the cold waters. Shortly after departing the docks the ferry tends to stop for a short view of the Witch Tree, also known as the Little Spirit Cedar Tree. It is a gnarled old tree estimated to be over 400 years old growing out of the rocks on the shoreline of Lake Superior near Grand Portage, Minnesota. This is a sacred tree to the local Ojibwa. I’m always amazed to think something can grow, essentially in rocks, and endure the extreme winter weather for such a long period of time. And now it was time to turn and continue our journey towards Isle Royale.
Off on the horizon you can begin to make out the tree line of this National Park. It’s hard to believe it takes so much time to travel this distance but that’s because it’s surprising how far away it really is. The trip covers 22 miles of Lake Superior. It was difficult to remain calm and try to enjoy our journey but I was nervous about the days hike and just wanted to begin. About halfway the cold waters began to make there way through our jackets as we began to shiver. The crew was absolutely correct about the journey being cold. Not that I thought they were wrong to begin with. I wrapped my arms around Kristen hoping to bring some warmth to her. I didn’t want her expending additional energy just trying to stay warm. She would need it later. In a few hours, I knew we would all be hot once again and just kept telling myself that the cold air was only temporary and to continue to enjoy the sights and our time on the boat as much as possible. About half way the Rock of Ages lighthouse became visible and a marker telling us how close to the island we were.
Soon the lighthouse moved from east of the boat to west as we passed into the National Park. The details of trees and stone creating this incredible landscape became closer signaling our arrival back to this beautiful wilderness. The nerves were beginning to give way to excitement and the cold was being chased away by thoughts of wildlife and wildflowers. Would there be wild orchids in bloom on our paths? Would we see another moose this time? How about a fox or even a newly placed wolf? Engines started winding down as we entered Washington Harbor. The shoreline began to have a familiar look. The trees still had their bright, spring green appearance as though the snow only left a few weeks ago. More and more I was certain it was a perfect time to live on Isle Royale for a week. Soon we slowed down to gaze through the clear waters of Lake Superior at the USS American. One of many shipwrecks around this large island. After a few minutes of observing this underwater treasure, we were once again headed for the docks to disembark for our journey. In a short time had our backpacks again and needed to check in with the ranger station informing them of our hiking plans before beginning. Filling our water bottles, lathering on the sunscreen, and taking advantage of flushing toilets seemed like a good idea before donning our packs and leaving this relatively modern spot for the wilderness over the next week. A few quick photos to mark the beginning of our journey and it was finally time to grab the hiking poles. Are we ready?
Finding Spring Again
About a month ago I had the opportunity to head into Northern Minnesota for some camping and exploring with a friend of mine from college. Just getting there was a lot of fun as the further north we drove from the Twin Cities, the more like spring it felt. There are so many things I enjoy as spring begins to transform the winter wonderland into a landscape so full of life. One of those is the scent of crabapples in full bloom. They’re beautiful to look at but so captivating to smell. Unfortunately their blooming season seems so short so to be able to enjoy this sweet fragrance once again at the Leif Erikson Gardens in Duluth was such a great unexpected treat. Winter held on a little longer this spring delaying these spring flowers a little which worked out extremely well for this trip. In addition to the crabapples, tulips were showing off their vibrant colors while being complimented with the large Lake Superior as a backdrop. I could have spent more time here just enjoying an absolutely gorgeous spring day but there still was a significant distance to go before getting to the days destination in Northern Minnesota.
As the vehicle continued towards the Canadian border along Lake Superior, spring seemed to rewind as the leaves on trees were smaller, earlier flowers were blooming once again, and the air grew cooler. By the time we reached our destination just outside of the Boundary Waters we were greeted with early blooming wildflowers such as Trillium – my favorite spring wildflower I think. It may be a toss up between Trillium and Lady Slipper Orchids. Since I didn’t come across any hardy orchids in bloom in the area I just enjoyed the pure white flowers reaching out above the interesting leaves of these intriguing Trillium grandiflorum. There were also nodding Trilliums in bloom along with a number of other wildflowers. What a great way to start out a weeks trip camping in the North Woods!
Happy Independence Day!
Wishing Americans a Happy Independence Day!
I’m currently on a hike on Isle Royale celebrating the freedom we enjoy to be able to explore such beautiful places. It’s been an incredible experience and I look forward to sharing some of the highlights with you soon.
Getting the Shot–Double Arch
One of my goals while in Moab, Utah enjoying the off road trails and incredible scenery was to photograph the numerous stars visible in the area. And what better way to do that than to include Double Arch in Arches National Park? Actually, after getting this shot I think it was more like photographing Double Arch at night with stars in the background. That was more of my intent was to get a beautiful picture of Double Arch. I’ve been fascinated with this humongous rock formation ever since I came across a picture of it. It takes just the right natural forces to create an arch but imagine what it takes to create a double arch? I know there’s even a triple arch but I haven’t seen that yet so my fascination will have to remain with this natural wonder at this time.
When I first spotted Double Arch it was from Turret Arch a little ways away. I was amazed at how large it actually was in person and how interesting the formations and colors are. Just look at how the wholes dwarf all of the people exploring it down below. Definitely a great subject to photograph.
In order to set up this shot I first began to imagine the shot and research it weeks before ever traveling to Moab. Once there I took some time to scout it during the daylight. It’s so much easier to figure out the composition when you can see where you’re going and can easily see the subject as well. If you look on the lower right side of the photo above you can see me crouched down looking towards the arches. I was told it appeared as though I was trying to sneak up on the arches. I can see that. What I’m actually doing was looking at different compositions. In the picture below you can see what it looked like from that spot.
I continued to move around taking pictures until I found what I thought would be a great place to set up once the sun went down. Eventually I settled on this location you see below. Now all that was left was to come back after dark and set up the camera with the correct settings. Once nightfall arrived a few days later, it was back to Arches for some nighttime photography. There were a few people here and there but almost everyone had left for the day leaving this beautiful rock structure all to ourselves. With the help of a friend to shine the flashlight around I setup the camera on a tripod with a remote shutter and began taking shots fine tuning my focus and composition. Once these were where I wanted them I extended the length of my shutter to take longer exposure pictures to capture as much of the night landscape as possible which led to the picture at the top. Many pictures that provide some great interest take time to put together.
Photos From the Trail – The Flintstones House
While traveling off road in the back country of Utah, we came around a corner on the trail and there below was Fred and Wilma’s house. We had found the town of Bedrock where the Flintstones must have lived. The first thing that stands out is what appears to be an entrance with a stone placed on top for the roof. And behind that are several windows through the stone allowing light to enter other areas of the house. I wanted to stop and go explore this great find but there really was nowhere to pull off of the trail safely to do that. Plus we had just begun the Poison Spider trail and didn’t want to find ourselves with a problem later on and be losing daylight if that happened.
The Trillium Are In Bloom
I love spring! There’s so much life filling the landscape. One of my favorite wildflowers though are Trillium. Driving by a hillside before the leaves have fully covered the trees and seeing a hillside full of white blooms is a very calming sight. Those large, white flowers sitting a top of three leaves are often Trillium grandiflorum in the upper Midwest. The most common of the Trilliums in this area. Unfortunately that spring display doesn’t last very long so the timing has to be just right. But if you come across an area filled with Trillium at just the right time, you’ll know what I’m saying. A beautiful display worth taking some time to enjoy.
At the end of May I joined another photographer to see what was in bloom at the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden in Minneapolis. Having been there a few times before I knew they had Trillium and I was hoping I wasn’t too late to see their beautiful flowers. First walking in I saw a couple of these plants displaying flowers that had already turned mostly brown and was a little disappointed fearing I was already too late. Fortunately as we walked further into the gardens there were others in peak bloom allowing me to get a few nice photographs to begin the summer. Exploring further revealed other types of Trillium also in bloom such as the red flowered Trillium in the photo above.
A few other kinds of these beautiful flowered plants were also in bloom. The nodding Trillium seen above has the flowers bent towards the ground instead of displayed above its leaves and there’s a yellow blooming type also in flower. These yellow and red flowered Trillium have smaller blooms than the white ones but also have unique, mottled leaves for added interest. Often when first showing people Trillium plants they first step back. They think of the rule of three leaved plants – leaves of three, leave it be. That’s because Poison Ivy has three leaves and they don’t want to get near it for fear of an allergic reaction. When I explain the difference between Poison Ivy and Trillium (and if I’m lucky I can show the difference), they relax and begin to enjoy these beautiful mid-spring flowers. Maybe this would be a good plant to add into my own landscape at home?
A Spring Camping Preview
With Memorial Day weekend quickly approaching, the camping itch began to get worse. In addition I had some new camping gear I wanted to try as there was a string of camping trips coming soon. I thought it would be a good idea to try this gear and make sure it was going to work as I wanted it to before these trips just in case there were some adjustments to make. Also, I was looking into deep space photography and wanted to give it a try. Try and find a campground on Memorial Day weekend just a few days beforehand. And find one with dark enough skies to photograph the night sky. All of the State Parks close to me were of course booked up but fortunately Minnesota’s State Forests are first come, first serve. I located Birch Lake State Forest. Far enough away from the Twin Cities to be dark enough but close enough to drive to for one night of camping.
Arriving late afternoon I strolled through the camp ground hoping for at least one spot to set my tent on and as luck had it, there was one. And only one! I got the last open campsite for the night. What luck! The excitement and anticipation of beginning the camping season set in. I quickly filled out the required permit, paid my fees, and set up my tent and sleeping gear. There was several hours before nightfall so what else to do? I had heard of a retention pond about 20 minutes away housing several different types of birds on their migration north. So off I went to see if I could find this pond. Fortunately it was relatively easy to locate and get to. Finding a spot along the dirt road next to this pond I pulled over and got out my camera equipment as there was movement on the water in different areas. One of the species that I’ve never seen before were these Phalaropes. They had some interesting colors and patterns along with an entertaining method for finding food. They swim in small circles while plucking food coming to the surface inside of this circle. A lot of fun to watch multiple birds doing this all at the same time. Another bird I’ve not photographed before was the Black Tern in the top picture.
As the sun set, I packed up and headed back towards camp to prepare for some nighttime photography and see if it is indeed possible to actually photograph a nebula or galaxy without a telescope. Taking some time to eat while the sky continued to grow darker I was beginning to feel the effects of the day and becoming comfortable in my chair with a small fire going. Eventually shaking that off it was time to grab the camera and head to nice clearing to check out the night sky. As my eyes continued to adjust to the dark sky above, I set the camera on a tripod with my long lens usually reserved for close ups of wildlife. Will this work? I zoomed in on a star and adjusted the focus and camera settings to begin testing deep space photography. No matter what I tried I could not get a sharp image of the stars. There was always movement which is likely from the rotation of the Earth. I didn’t have a skytracker which was a debate before heading north. That will have to be an addition to my equipment if I want to continue trying to capture deep space objects like the Orion Nebula.
Since the deep space thing was a bust, I focused more on spring flowers, plants, and migratory birds. I decided to call it a night, albeit a little disappointed about the deep space attempt and lack of success, as the sun would be rising in a little over 3 hours. Waking up with light already beginning to illuminate the sky, it was time to get up if I wanted to capture the sunrise coming up over Birch Lake. It almost appeared cloudy at first but as I studied the sky a bit more I could see that it was clear. There was no sunlight on the trees above so I figured there was a few minutes more as I was moving a bit slow on this morning after a cold night of trying to get some sleep. I just never warmed up allowing me to drift off into a deep sleep making me quite a bit less energetic this morning. Finally beginning to move towards the lake, it was obvious I was too late as the sun was already above the horizon. It would have been a great sunrise to capture too as there was some nice fog covering the horizon.
Well now I’m really irritated and about to call this first camping trip of the summer a failure as I failed at deep space photography and now missing the sunrise. At least there are some spring blooms and plenty of birds to add to my collection of photos. Before leaving the lake, a beautiful Baltimore Oriole flew into a nearby tree and began singing for me which helped to lighten my mood. Also a Loon swam close by and began calling out across the lake while a white Pelican was spotted swimming off in the distance. Those were enjoyable sights to watch and sounds to hear welcoming the suns warmth to begin a new day.
Walking along one of the trails, the bright and colorful seeds hanging from a nearby tree caught my attention and could make for a beautiful photograph. I spent a few minutes trying to capture this subject before moving on. You can see one of those shots above with the red, young seeds dangling from a branch. With the sun continuing to move higher in the sky, I returned to the retention pond from the evening before to see if I could capture a few more types of birds. While watching for a little while a Yellow Headed Blackbird came walking up along the shoreline. They are supposedly plentiful but I had never seen one before so this was a nice treat. Photographing as it moved in and out of rocks near the water searching for food was quite enjoyable. Occasionally seeing it reach down to grab something and moving on.
Eventually another bird I definitely have not photographed before came walking up on the shoreline also. This was a Sandpiper and was equally as interesting to watch as it searched to shoreline, stopping occasionally to pluck a morsel out of the water to eat, and then continuing on along the water. It continued to move closer towards me allowing me to watch it through my lens and see its every move. I enjoyed this opportunity to learn more about this shore bird. The Phalaropes were still in the area along with some Red Headed ducks and what I believe were Ruddy ducks but they were all pretty far away to get any decent shots of them. Along one of the trails in the area, several spring wildflowers where in bloom including the beautiful Bellwort in the photo above. This all made for a nice mid spring day before needed to get back to the campsite and pack up to go home. I look forward to my upcoming trips in the great outdoors of Northern Minnesota even more now.
