All posts by Troy

Adventures, Backpacking, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

Hiking to Feldtman Lake

August 17, 2019 Troy

And we’re off! The Feldtman Lake Trail is listed at just under 9 miles from Windigo and we have no real good idea how our group will perform. How many stops will we need? What pace can we maintain? Our goal is to get our camp set up before dark reaches the island. It was almost noon when we started and sunset was about 10pm on the island so ten hours to make it there. On our last Isle Royale adventure in 2012, we averaged 1.5 miles per hour. That was seven years ago though. If we can maintain that average we should be able to complete nine miles in six hours which would get us to the campground about 6pm. Plenty of time to get set up and cook food before the sun falls below Lake Superior.

The first two miles of this adventure were familiar because on the first day of our last Isle Royale trip we explored the area to an overlook on this exact trail. I knew there was a fairly steep climb leading to the overlook for our first nice challenge. The overlook would be a good spot to rest with the packs off for a short time and let us know where we are for speed. Fortunately our energy was high and the trail was beautiful with plants at peak flower causing me to forget about the weight on my back from time to time. There were even a few different types of orchids in bloom which was really exciting to see. After the first mile we began to head up in elevation causing us to really become warm after shivering on the boat ride to the island. Now I get to see if all of my preparations to be physically ready paid off. There was a bit of a strain on my legs in this section of the trail and my breathing became quite labored just before reaching the summit but all in all I felt pretty good. Like I could make this hike reasonably well.

Reaching the overlook, I checked the time and saw our pace was at my expectations. And the nice part was the rest of the trail is downhill. Finding a spot to set our backpacks down, we grabbed a drink of water and admired the view (photo at the top of the post). After a few minutes of scanning the island from this high point we sat for a few minutes and found some food to keep our energy levels up for the remaining seven miles. Feeling good and a little anxious to see what lies ahead, we hefted our heavy packs back on top of our shoulders and continued on. There were a few ripe wild strawberries in the are so I harvested a couple for a nice little fresh fruit on the trail. Quite tasty although barely the size of a pea. It would take a lot of these for a nice meal. Up on the ridge the temperature was estimated to be in the upper 70’s Fahrenheit so it was warm and we were now hiking in the sunlight.

Thankfully the shade of trees arrived a short distance later helping to keep us cool. Although they also became obstacles from time to time which we happily overcame. A downed tree was a great place to lean against and take much of the backpack weight off of our shoulders from time to time revitalizing our legs and backs before continuing on. Over the course of the afternoon we would stop every couple of miles to remove the heavy weight being carried on our backs, grab something to eat quickly, and sip some water making sure to ration so there was enough until we could refill. About halfway to Feldtman Lake, the thimbleberry bushes began their attack. These are fairly tall bushes with stiff branches and large leaves which continually ate at our legs leaving behind some nice gouges for us to remember them by. As we continue to move we only encountered one other hiker headed towards Windigo and two hikers on their way to Feldtman Lake. They passed us during one of our breaks to regain the lead. We caught up to them again right at Feldtman Lake.

I had decided it was time for another break and sat down briefly to find a little relief from my backpack as the weight was really causing soreness in my shoulders and lower back. Also I wanted our group to be rejoined to make sure everything was going ok. A few minutes passed and looking at a clock and miles already hiked told me there should only be a small portion left ahead. That was all the motivation I needed to put the pack back on knowing it should only be for another 20 minutes at the most. As it turned out, I turned a corner and saw the metal sign showing the location of all of the campsites. We had made it! Moving towards the campground, there was an open site but wasn’t right on the lake so we kept looking. There were a few others open but this first one we spotted seemed like the best remaining place to pitch our tent so we walked in the cleared area and set our backpacks down for the last time on this day. What an amazing feeling! It was like I was walking on air or had springs in my shoes without that thing attached weighing me down. And it was just after 6pm so there was plenty of time to enjoy camp yet.

A few minutes after setting down the packs and pulling out the tent, a moose was spotted not far away in Feldtman Lake. We headed to a nice viewing spot to take in some wildlife viewing and relax for a moment. I had hoped we would see a moose or two on this adventure and here one was to welcome us to our first camping spot. After a few minutes, the moose headed back into the woods so we returned to our evening chores of getting the tent set up with sleeping pads and sleeping bags. Once complete we began preparing our one hot meal of the day talking about that days adventures and what we wanted to do with the few remaining sunlit hours. A trip to Rainbow Cove was recommended by multiple people so that seemed like a good way to end our first day on Isle Royale.

Exploring, Jeep Badge of Honor, National Parks, Troy's Blog

Photos From the Trail–The Needles in Canyonlands National Park

August 11, 2019 Troy

While off road driving in Canyonlands National Park the views were often spectacular. Frequently these sights became distracting while driving requiring a stop to get out of the Jeep and photograph the landscape. This spot on the trial shows the sandy 4 x 4 trail at the bottom of Elephant Canyon meandering through trees and rocks leading into the natural Needle rock sculptures this part of the National Park is known for.

Adventures, Troy's Blog

Canoeing in the BWCA

August 3, 2019 Troy

In order to camp in the Boundary Waters of Minnesota, a permit is needed and these can be challenging to get as they’re often reserved well in advance for the popular summer months. One alternative is to camp or stay in a lodge just outside of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area or BWCA. This was my choice for visiting this vast wilderness in the middle of June. While on a Northern Minnesota adventure with a friend from college, we spent a couple of days in one of the US Fish and Wildlife cabins in a Superior National Forest campground near one of the many entry points of the BWCA. There initially were no plans to rent a canoe and spend a day paddling in the Boundary Waters, but there really were no plans other than to relax in this beautiful place.

Early one morning I got up to watch the sunrise, hoping to see a moose in the water under the brightening sky. There were no moose but it was still an amazing sunrise in this beautiful wilderness. An occasional call from a distant loon interrupted the near silence on this peaceful and calm morning. As the sun climbed higher in the skies I realized it would be such a mistake to come all the way to the edge of the Boundary Waters and not spend some time exploring this pristine place. I’ve thought about an adventure in this area several times but have never actually pursued one. What is it like canoeing among these clear lakes and camping under the bright stars of this north country? Returning to the cabin I suggested we rent a canoe from a nearby outfitter and answer these questions. After making breakfast we packed up some supplies along with our fishing gear and headed out to Clearwater Lake for the day. After filling out the necessary permit and renting a canoe, we were off towards the solitude of the BWCA.

From the outfitter, you have to paddle about a quarter of the lake before entering the designated wilderness which really didn’t take long. The day before we had explored this area a little by vehicle and found a boat landing just outside of the BWCA. After passing that landing on this morning we knew it was a short distance to the protected area and we were now inside this often heard about place. A short time later we encounter the first campsite. It struck me by surprise there was a campsite that close to the edge of the Boundary Waters. This one was occupied so I would have to wait for another campsite to check out what they are like. Continuing on down Clearwater Lake, I spotted an area on the opposite side of the lake that appeared to be another camping area. Some of these are well hidden but once you have an idea of what you’re looking for you can start to spot some of the signs such as a worn area where others have taken their canoes out of the water. We pulled up to this place and confirmed it was a campsite. Getting out of the canoe and pulling it ashore, it was time to see a Boundary Waters Canoe Area campsite. From stories I had heard they generally have a clearing for the tent, a metal fire ring, and a pit toilet. The spot for tents and fire ring were obvious. Others had placed logs for a place to sit but where was the toilet? Searching some worn foot paths I soon found it. Just a toilet sitting on top of a dug out pit with no shelter or privacy other than trees and shrubs around it. Grabbing a snack and exploring for a few minutes and it was time to return to the water.

Eventually we made our way to the other end of the lake, fishing along the way, where another campsite existed just before needing to portage to another nearby lake. We spent some time at this campsite in order to eat and do a little fishing from shore. I did manage to catch one but it released itself from my hook and rolled all the way back into the water before I could catch it. While enjoying this spot I heard what sounded like thunder. Quickly making my way back to the canoe I could see storm clouds blowing in from behind us. I guess we’ll be waiting that out here before paddling back up the lake to the outfitter. Fortunately it wasn’t a strong storm and moved quickly overhead with a few flashes of lightning. Once we were sure it was safe to enter the water we began paddling back to end our time in this beautiful wilderness. There was one issue though. The storm had brought high winds which stayed once the weather had passed. Now we had to fight these in order to get back. It took most of our strength with no chance to rest to fight these winds for nearly the entire length of Clearwater Lake. We would pull into a tree near shore once in awhile to rest our arms for a few minutes but then it was back at it paddling at full strength. Before nightfall arrived we managed to get back to the outfitter, tired but satisfied with our Boundary Waters adventure. I hope to return someday and spend a little more time on these waters. Maybe even do a portage once to complete the experience.

Adventures, Jeep Badge of Honor, Troy's Blog

Poison Spider

July 28, 2019 Troy

Our third trail was one we were initially very nervous about and hesitant to even attempt due to the difficulties and challenges presented from steep rock ledges and longer climbs on slick rock. After successfully navigating Elephant Hill and Top of the World with fewer difficulties than expected we decided to take a run at Poison Spider. A powerful, yet intimidating name for a trail. What would we encounter with a name like that? Making it to the trailhead and trail prep area brought us along the Colorado River running through a beautiful canyon causing us to slow down to admire the surroundings to enjoy the amazing sights created from thousands of years of geology and carving forming this masterpiece now before us. The trailhead almost came up too fast as the canyon continues on for miles and miles, but we were here for a purpose. And that purpose was an off-road challenge.

While getting the tires ready for another off road adventure we wondered around, striking up conversations with some of the other enthusiast also getting their vehicles ready for a Utah adventure sharing a camaraderie common among four wheeling. Everything now ready it was time to go. The trail begins with a difficult climb right off the bat on a narrow trail looking into this canyon we just drove through. Too close to the edge and it’s straight down to the valley floor. Not something we wanted to experience! Within minutes of starting we found ourselves in trouble. We’ve managed to do what we’ve been trying to avoid this whole time. Becoming centered on rocks keeping both front and back tires from getting enough traction to pull the vehicle over these rocks. Trying to move back and fourth only dug holes in the loose sand causing the problem to get worse. And to make it even more stressful, here come other off roaders behind us. Fortunately they were extremely helpful and immediately began working to get us free by digging out around the tires and placing rocks for them to hopefully grab onto and raise the vehicle up and over the ones hanging us up. After quite a bit of work and trying to get out of our predicament, we realized why we had gotten stuck in the first place – we were not in 4 wheel drive! Enacting this important feature and shifting the Jeep into first gear, it crawled right out as if to emphasize our mistake and add this stupidity to its tally of blunders we’ve made.

After being stuck at the beginning of Poison Spider we really questioned the intelligence of continuing on the most difficult trail we had planned to drive this week. With no place to really turn around and several other people behind us we forged on. Soon the trail began to have a familiar comfort of others around Moab with some unique challenges. Around some corners, steep rock ledges would appear requiring a closer examination of the trail before driving the vehicle over to avoid more problems for the Jeep to put on its list. Many were less complicated than originally thought as this four wheel, off road truck relatively easily climbed up and over each one giving more confidence in our adventure. And then we rounded a corner with a broken down machine to one side. After assisting them to get them back to the trailhead we were back at it, although a bit more cautious so as to not break something on our truck.

Eventually we arrived at the point I was most concerned about, a long climb up narrow slick rock with each tire hanging on rock edges by mere inches. Watching videos of this trail I saw other Jeeps tip over on this part of the trail. What would we do if our Jeep tipped? Fortunately there was little to be concerned about if you approach this smartly and take your time climbing up this V shaped hill. At a couple of points we thought the bead broke on a tire which would require a change once on more level ground but all tires were in tact and holding air bringing a sigh of relief. There were several other steep climbs which became a bit more concerning as rain showers moved into the area. Thankfully they only produced a few drops which quickly dried up so we could continue on this enjoyable trail. As mid day approached we wanted to find a nice spot to stop and grab a bite to eat. Fortunately Little Arch was nearby which is a fun rock feature found on Poison Spider. A perfect spot to get out of the Jeep and take in a few sights while getting some nourishment. Once lunch was complete we spent a little time taking some pictures of the arch and continued on our way back down towards the trailhead completing this fun off road trail. A really enjoyable trail which provided beautiful scenery, challenging off road climbs, and some new experiences to add to our Moab adventure. At this point in the trip the realization that we were near the end of this adventure began to set in. Fortunately there still was one more day to try another trail before leaving this big playground.

Adventures, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

A Return to Isle Royale

July 20, 2019 Troy

It’s been too long since the last time backpacking on Isle Royale. A trip was planned a couple of years ago that had to be canceled but finally, this summer we were able to return. It’s a little weird writing that since the last time, in August 2012, I was very certain I never wanted to return and do another backpacking trip. Funny how things change. This time I was so excited to see the island again. To be immersed in it’s wilderness and to hike the route I originally wanted to hike the last time – The Feldtmann Loop. Thankfully we didn’t hike this route last time as it requires some dedication and is more physically challenging. I wouldn’t have enjoyed it. Carrying a very heavy pack and never having backpacked before would have made it an awful experience I think. Hopefully I’m better prepared with a little more knowledge and can enjoy such a physical adventure.

Waking up early after a late night of traveling to Grand Portage, if there was any sleep this past night, the nerves began to set in. Because there’s a time change just to the east of Grand Portage, our phones were reading a different time than the hotel clocks. Which one was right? We have to complete our packing and get to the ferry docks to begin a day of hiking. The trip takes about two hours which gets us to the island mid-morning. Will we be able to make camp at Feldtmann Lake before dark? How will we do hiking 9 miles with backpacks much heavier than I wanted. Mine was over 40 pounds and I was hoping to have it at 30 pounds or less. I remember being miserable with such a heavy pack the last time with a sore back in multiple places, sore feet, and legs and that was only 5 miles. We made it to the docks with plenty of time and even stopped for breakfast to eat on the way. Our packs were finally fully packed and loaded into the boats storage area and it was time to just enjoy this moment. I couldn’t tell if I was more excited or nervous. My youngest daughter was with me and she was somewhat hesitant to come on this trip to begin with. Would she enjoy it with the more extensive hikes and more weight? She was afraid to be the weak link in our hiking group and feared holding us back. I just wanted to have this time with her and for her to have a great and memorable experience. Sharing this time with her was something I had been really looking forward to so now it was time to just take in the moment and be thankful for this tremendous opportunity.

Just before boarding the crew informed us that the water temperature was in the low 40’s Fahrenheit and it would be a cold trip so bring some additional layers to keep warm if we had them. I grabbed my fleece coat for additional warmth but anything else would require unpacking so I decided to endure the couple of hours of gliding through the cold waters. Shortly after departing the docks the ferry tends to stop for a short view of the Witch Tree, also known as the Little Spirit Cedar Tree. It is a gnarled old tree estimated to be over 400 years old growing out of the rocks on the shoreline of Lake Superior near Grand Portage, Minnesota. This is a sacred tree to the local Ojibwa. I’m always amazed to think something can grow, essentially in rocks, and endure the extreme winter weather for such a long period of time. And now it was time to turn and continue our journey towards Isle Royale.

Off on the horizon you can begin to make out the tree line of this National Park. It’s hard to believe it takes so much time to travel this distance but that’s because it’s surprising how far away it really is. The trip covers 22 miles of Lake Superior. It was difficult to remain calm and try to enjoy our journey but I was nervous about the days hike and just wanted to begin. About halfway the cold waters began to make there way through our jackets as we began to shiver. The crew was absolutely correct about the journey being cold. Not that I thought they were wrong to begin with. I wrapped my arms around Kristen hoping to bring some warmth to her. I didn’t want her expending additional energy just trying to stay warm. She would need it later. In a few hours, I knew we would all be hot once again and just kept telling myself that the cold air was only temporary and to continue to enjoy the sights and our time on the boat as much as possible. About half way the Rock of Ages lighthouse became visible and a marker telling us how close to the island we were.

Soon the lighthouse moved from east of the boat to west as we passed into the National Park. The details of trees and stone creating this incredible landscape became closer signaling our arrival back to this beautiful wilderness. The nerves were beginning to give way to excitement and the cold was being chased away by thoughts of wildlife and wildflowers. Would there be wild orchids in bloom on our paths? Would we see another moose this time? How about a fox or even a newly placed wolf? Engines started winding down as we entered Washington Harbor. The shoreline began to have a familiar look. The trees still had their bright, spring green appearance as though the snow only left a few weeks ago. More and more I was certain it was a perfect time to live on Isle Royale for a week. Soon we slowed down to gaze through the clear waters of Lake Superior at the USS American. One of many shipwrecks around this large island. After a few minutes of observing this underwater treasure, we were once again headed for the docks to disembark for our journey. In a short time had our backpacks again and needed to check in with the ranger station informing them of our hiking plans before beginning. Filling our water bottles, lathering on the sunscreen, and taking advantage of flushing toilets seemed like a good idea before donning our packs and leaving this relatively modern spot for the wilderness over the next week. A few quick photos to mark the beginning of our journey and it was finally time to grab the hiking poles. Are we ready?

Adventure, Photos, Troy's Blog

Finding Spring Again

July 14, 2019 Troy

About a month ago I had the opportunity to head into Northern Minnesota for some camping and exploring with a friend of mine from college. Just getting there was a lot of fun as the further north we drove from the Twin Cities, the more like spring it felt. There are so many things I enjoy as spring begins to transform the winter wonderland into a landscape so full of life. One of those is the scent of crabapples in full bloom. They’re beautiful to look at but so captivating to smell. Unfortunately their blooming season seems so short so to be able to enjoy this sweet fragrance once again at the Leif Erikson Gardens in Duluth was such a great unexpected treat. Winter held on a little longer this spring delaying these spring flowers a little which worked out extremely well for this trip. In addition to the crabapples, tulips were showing off their vibrant colors while being complimented with the large Lake Superior as a backdrop. I could have spent more time here just enjoying an absolutely gorgeous spring day but there still was a significant distance to go before getting to the days destination in Northern Minnesota.

As the vehicle continued towards the Canadian border along Lake Superior, spring seemed to rewind as the leaves on trees were smaller, earlier flowers were blooming once again, and the air grew cooler. By the time we reached our destination just outside of the Boundary Waters we were greeted with early blooming wildflowers such as Trillium – my favorite spring wildflower I think. It may be a toss up between Trillium and Lady Slipper Orchids. Since I didn’t come across any hardy orchids in bloom in the area I just enjoyed the pure white flowers reaching out above the interesting leaves of these intriguing Trillium grandiflorum. There were also nodding Trilliums in bloom along with a number of other wildflowers. What a great way to start out a weeks trip camping in the North Woods!

Adventure, National Parks, Photos, Troy's Blog

Happy Independence Day!

July 4, 2019 Troy

Wishing Americans a Happy Independence Day!

I’m currently on a hike on Isle Royale celebrating the freedom we enjoy to be able to explore such beautiful places. It’s been an incredible experience and I look forward to sharing some of the highlights with you soon.

National Parks, Photos, Troy's Blog

Getting the Shot–Double Arch

June 29, 2019 Troy

One of my goals while in Moab, Utah enjoying the off road trails and incredible scenery was to photograph the numerous stars visible in the area. And what better way to do that than to include Double Arch in Arches National Park? Actually, after getting this shot I think it was more like photographing Double Arch at night with stars in the background. That was more of my intent was to get a beautiful picture of Double Arch. I’ve been fascinated with this humongous rock formation ever since I came across a picture of it. It takes just the right natural forces to create an arch but imagine what it takes to create a double arch? I know there’s even a triple arch but I haven’t seen that yet so my fascination will have to remain with this natural wonder at this time.

When I first spotted Double Arch it was from Turret Arch a little ways away. I was amazed at how large it actually was in person and how interesting the formations and colors are. Just look at how the wholes dwarf all of the people exploring it down below. Definitely a great subject to photograph.

In order to set up this shot I first began to imagine the shot and research it weeks before ever traveling to Moab. Once there I took some time to scout it during the daylight. It’s so much easier to figure out the composition when you can see where you’re going and can easily see the subject as well. If you look on the lower right side of the photo above you can see me crouched down looking towards the arches. I was told it appeared as though I was trying to sneak up on the arches. I can see that. What I’m actually doing was looking at different compositions. In the picture below you can see what it looked like from that spot.

I continued to move around taking pictures until I found what I thought would be a great place to set up once the sun went down. Eventually I settled on this location you see below. Now all that was left was to come back after dark and set up the camera with the correct settings. Once nightfall arrived a few days later, it was back to Arches for some nighttime photography. There were a few people here and there but almost everyone had left for the day leaving this beautiful rock structure all to ourselves. With the help of a friend to shine the flashlight around I setup the camera on a tripod with a remote shutter and began taking shots fine tuning my focus and composition. Once these were where I wanted them I extended the length of my shutter to take longer exposure pictures to capture as much of the night landscape as possible which led to the picture at the top. Many pictures that provide some great interest take time to put together.

Exploring, Jeep Badge of Honor, Troy's Blog

Photos From the Trail – The Flintstones House

June 23, 2019 Troy

While traveling off road in the back country of Utah, we came around a corner on the trail and there below was Fred and Wilma’s house. We had found the town of Bedrock where the Flintstones must have lived. The first thing that stands out is what appears to be an entrance with a stone placed on top for the roof. And behind that are several windows through the stone allowing light to enter other areas of the house. I wanted to stop and go explore this great find but there really was nowhere to pull off of the trail safely to do that. Plus we had just begun the Poison Spider trail and didn’t want to find ourselves with a problem later on and be losing daylight if that happened.

Photos, Troy's Blog, Wildflowers

The Trillium Are In Bloom

June 15, 2019 Troy

I love spring! There’s so much life filling the landscape. One of my favorite wildflowers though are Trillium. Driving by a hillside before the leaves have fully covered the trees and seeing a hillside full of white blooms is a very calming sight. Those large, white flowers sitting a top of three leaves are often Trillium grandiflorum in the upper Midwest. The most common of the Trilliums in this area. Unfortunately that spring display doesn’t last very long so the timing has to be just right. But if you come across an area filled with Trillium at just the right time, you’ll know what I’m saying. A beautiful display worth taking some time to enjoy.

At the end of May I joined another photographer to see what was in bloom at the Eloise Butler Wildflower Garden in Minneapolis. Having been there a few times before I knew they had Trillium and I was hoping I wasn’t too late to see their beautiful flowers. First walking in I saw a couple of these plants displaying flowers that had already turned mostly brown and was a little disappointed fearing I was already too late. Fortunately as we walked further into the gardens there were others in peak bloom allowing me to get a few nice photographs to begin the summer. Exploring further revealed other types of Trillium also in bloom such as the red flowered Trillium in the photo above.

A few other kinds of these beautiful flowered plants were also in bloom. The nodding Trillium seen above has the flowers bent towards the ground instead of displayed above its leaves and there’s a yellow blooming type also in flower. These yellow and red flowered Trillium have smaller blooms than the white ones but also have unique, mottled leaves for added interest. Often when first showing people Trillium plants they first step back. They think of the rule of three leaved plants – leaves of three, leave it be. That’s because Poison Ivy has three leaves and they don’t want to get near it for fear of an allergic reaction. When I explain the difference between Poison Ivy and Trillium (and if I’m lucky I can show the difference), they relax and begin to enjoy these beautiful mid-spring flowers. Maybe this would be a good plant to add into my own landscape at home?

Gaining Life Experience