In order to camp in the Boundary Waters of Minnesota, a permit is needed and these can be challenging to get as they’re often reserved well in advance for the popular summer months. One alternative is to camp or stay in a lodge just outside of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area or BWCA. This was my choice for visiting this vast wilderness in the middle of June. While on a Northern Minnesota adventure with a friend from college, we spent a couple of days in one of the US Fish and Wildlife cabins in a Superior National Forest campground near one of the many entry points of the BWCA. There initially were no plans to rent a canoe and spend a day paddling in the Boundary Waters, but there really were no plans other than to relax in this beautiful place.
Early one morning I got up to watch the sunrise, hoping to see a moose in the water under the brightening sky. There were no moose but it was still an amazing sunrise in this beautiful wilderness. An occasional call from a distant loon interrupted the near silence on this peaceful and calm morning. As the sun climbed higher in the skies I realized it would be such a mistake to come all the way to the edge of the Boundary Waters and not spend some time exploring this pristine place. I’ve thought about an adventure in this area several times but have never actually pursued one. What is it like canoeing among these clear lakes and camping under the bright stars of this north country? Returning to the cabin I suggested we rent a canoe from a nearby outfitter and answer these questions. After making breakfast we packed up some supplies along with our fishing gear and headed out to Clearwater Lake for the day. After filling out the necessary permit and renting a canoe, we were off towards the solitude of the BWCA.
From the outfitter, you have to paddle about a quarter of the lake before entering the designated wilderness which really didn’t take long. The day before we had explored this area a little by vehicle and found a boat landing just outside of the BWCA. After passing that landing on this morning we knew it was a short distance to the protected area and we were now inside this often heard about place. A short time later we encounter the first campsite. It struck me by surprise there was a campsite that close to the edge of the Boundary Waters. This one was occupied so I would have to wait for another campsite to check out what they are like. Continuing on down Clearwater Lake, I spotted an area on the opposite side of the lake that appeared to be another camping area. Some of these are well hidden but once you have an idea of what you’re looking for you can start to spot some of the signs such as a worn area where others have taken their canoes out of the water. We pulled up to this place and confirmed it was a campsite. Getting out of the canoe and pulling it ashore, it was time to see a Boundary Waters Canoe Area campsite. From stories I had heard they generally have a clearing for the tent, a metal fire ring, and a pit toilet. The spot for tents and fire ring were obvious. Others had placed logs for a place to sit but where was the toilet? Searching some worn foot paths I soon found it. Just a toilet sitting on top of a dug out pit with no shelter or privacy other than trees and shrubs around it. Grabbing a snack and exploring for a few minutes and it was time to return to the water.
Eventually we made our way to the other end of the lake, fishing along the way, where another campsite existed just before needing to portage to another nearby lake. We spent some time at this campsite in order to eat and do a little fishing from shore. I did manage to catch one but it released itself from my hook and rolled all the way back into the water before I could catch it. While enjoying this spot I heard what sounded like thunder. Quickly making my way back to the canoe I could see storm clouds blowing in from behind us. I guess we’ll be waiting that out here before paddling back up the lake to the outfitter. Fortunately it wasn’t a strong storm and moved quickly overhead with a few flashes of lightning. Once we were sure it was safe to enter the water we began paddling back to end our time in this beautiful wilderness. There was one issue though. The storm had brought high winds which stayed once the weather had passed. Now we had to fight these in order to get back. It took most of our strength with no chance to rest to fight these winds for nearly the entire length of Clearwater Lake. We would pull into a tree near shore once in awhile to rest our arms for a few minutes but then it was back at it paddling at full strength. Before nightfall arrived we managed to get back to the outfitter, tired but satisfied with our Boundary Waters adventure. I hope to return someday and spend a little more time on these waters. Maybe even do a portage once to complete the experience.
