Tag Archives: Northern Minnesota

Searching For Fall Colors

With a few days off at the end of September, it was time to head to Northern Minnesota in search of fall colors. Getting on the road for our three hour road trip, my wife and I got going before sunrise to drop our dog off for the day with a family member allowing us to spend most of the day on the North Shore. While driving, the clouds above us sent out a flash of lighting with thunder quickly rumbling. We both looked around for the storm as there weren’t a lot of clouds above when rain began to land on our windshield. It must just be a small could burst that produced a crack of thunder also just above us. As daylight began to reach across the horizon, we could see areas of spotty showers interspersed with clear skies on this early fall morning. It was a fairly warm morning with sunny skies in the forecast for most of the day making for some bonus shorts weather. Soon the sky began to light up with amazing pinks, reds, and purples making it more difficult to concentrate on driving without staring off into the colorful rising sun.

Morning Rainbow whilel driving north

Eventually the sun breached the horizon sending its warm rays across the sky. As I looked in the opposite direction, I noticed a bright rainbow arching across the sky from the small rain showers. What more could we ask for to start this beautiful fall day? A non-threatening thunderstorm followed by amazing sunrise colors only to be capped off by a gorgeous rainbow.  The rain continued to move east and sun moved higher in the sky making way for a nice day to do a little hiking in hopes of finding some beautiful fall colors which are often making their way by now in the northern part of the state.

Reaching Duluth, there was the grandest of the Great Lakes – Lake Superior reaching out across the landscape. A quick stop to use the bathroom and look out at the scenery in front of us and we were back in the car continuing north. Gooseberry Falls State Park was coming up and we decided to make a brief visit since it had been awhile from our last time here. There was definitely less water crashing over the cliffs as dry weather from the summer kept the river lower than usual, but it was still a beautiful park on the shores of Lake Superior.

Gooseberry Falls

Now satisfied with seeing some North Shore waterfalls, we climbed back into the car and made a short drive to Split Rock State Park. We had been anticipating colorful foliage to start appearing for much of our travels north and really didn’t find much. The landscape appeared to be pretty green and vibrant as if it was in the middle of summer. A small shrub or tree here and there produced something other than the deep green leaves but that was it. We looked along the shores of this Great Lake hiking several miles and saw very little as far as colorful trees were concerned. Fortunately it was still a beautiful day with great scenery along our way.

A very green North Shore

With really no colors along the shore, we hiked up on top of some cliffs to see if there were any changing leaves further inland. Sometimes the large lake tends to moderate temperatures keeping these leaves green longer while the inland trees experience different conditions and change a bit earlier. With clear views for miles and miles inland, green prevailed everywhere we looked. A little defeated in our goal of finding some colorful scenery indicating that fall is making its way, we enjoyed our time together and the opportunity to do some hiking on quieter trails. The morning was nearing the end indicating it may be time to start making lunch plans. We had a few miles to hike to our car which would take a little time and then some additional time to drive to a place to grab some delicious food.

Green leaves as far as we could see

On our way back to the car we talked about the disappointing fall colors from this year and some of the spectacular views from the past two years around this same time. Who would have guessed the colorful portion of our journey was right away at sunrise? Still a great day to enjoy with my wife. Here’s a photo from a year ago in the same area.

Fall Colors from 2021

Late Summer Mushrooms

As late August arrived, we planned a family camping weekend. It was a cloudy and wet weekend at times making it more challenging to get out and photograph nature. While hanging around the campsite preparing breakfast, I started wondering around and came across these small mushrooms popping out of a mossed covered log laying across the forest floor. Looking through the camera lens, the lighting was very nice creating a soft image perfect for these delicate little fungi.

The next weekend brought a trip to the North Shore to help my daughter move in to her new place for the winter as school gets back underway. While in the area, I got up to watch the sunrise which ended up being a bit dismal. After the light began to spread across the landscape I headed for a nearby trail to explore the north woods. Walking all alone into these beautiful trees, I came across a large rotting stump. Examining closer I could see coral mushrooms. And then red capped mushrooms. Continuing to walk around I found brown mushrooms. So much to capture all in one piece of wood.

Little red capped mushroom

This little red capped fungi stood out against the more natural tones of the forest floor bringing fantastic color on such a small scale. It was such a picture perfect mushroom to enjoy. Walking to the other side of this stump, coral mushrooms were coming out of the ground. These are definitely one the most unique mushrooms I’ve seen. I remember reading about them in one of my magazines but had never seen one to know a mushroom like this existed. A few years later I finally saw one and now I find them from time to time enjoying it each time with their interesting branching structure. I had a saltwater tank with coral in it and these always bring back positive memories of that aquarium.

Coral Mushroom surrounded by fallen birch logs

The first coral mushroom I saw was fairly large but in a difficult spot to get a nice photo of it. Searching the area I saw this one surrounded by birch branches bringing a little more interesting background to the photo. When I look over this picture, I always think it should have water droplets hanging off of it to soften up the image and make it more inviting. There was no rain that morning so it wasn’t an option. Moving on to one more of the fungus growing out of this decomposing tree stump, I wanted to show a different moss surrounding these mushrooms. These were fun to capture because there are several stages of opening present from the rounded to top to becoming flattened to having a cup forming in the top of the most open stem. This brown was a nice contrast to the brilliant green moss growing around them completing the earthy tones often associated with a forest in late summer.

Growing among the mosses

It was getting to be time to rejoin my family for breakfast and one more day of exploring together before needing to return home. My little adventure had been a successful one with some great mushrooms along a beautiful north woods trail near Lake Superior and I was ready to get back to my car. Almost…. While walking back towards my car I kept stopping just to take in these surroundings and the plants making up the woods. At one point I bent over to examine some plant leaves and berries growing from them when I looked closer towards the ground and noticed a bright yellow mushroom. I had seen one of these earlier but it was not in great shape. A little too old to capture. As I continue to get closer to this one, there was a snail climbing around it. Watching it for awhile, I moved around with the camera to get an interesting picture as it worked its way over the top of this next meal. That was really fun to witness and a great send off from the trail as I returned to my vehicle to meet my family.

A snail grabbing a mushroom breakfast

Ice Breaking Up on the Big Lake

A warm late winter afternoon on Minnesota’s North Shore highlighted what time of year it was. Spring would soon be here bringing warmer days. Ice along the shoreline of Lake Superior was beginning to break apart as evidenced by little islands made entirely of ice floating out to sea. Plates of ice littered the shoreline from previous days when it broke apart. Probably from a windy day creating waves on the big lake. These plates were stacked up in all different directions as the waves washed them up on top of each other. Overnight a light snow fell covering much of the rock and ice making up the shore line just north of Duluth. It’s really a beautiful winter scene!

Vertical plates of ice

The sun was high overhead on this bright afternoon showcasing each shard of ice. Each step must be carefully placed lest you break through this often fragile puzzle or slip and find yourself face to face with an unforgiving piece of granite coated in frozen water. Worse yet, you could land in this very cold body of water. It was a warm winter afternoon but that only means the temperature was just above freezing and a dip in the water could bring on hyperthermia. This is a good opportunity to use ice cleats to help secure each step allowing the user to spend more time enjoying each barge of ice as it floats by, slowly disintegrating.

Ice floating away

Focusing more on the shoreline brings a myriad of shapes and sizes of ice plates thrown on top of one another. How did they get like this? Many of the boulders and beach were covered in ice. That is easier for me to figure out as the spray from each wave crashing into the shoreline ends in an eruption of water coating these rocks in water which quickly freezes.

The suns strength was not enough on this day to break through most of that ice protected by a thin layer of snow. Strolling along the shore brought a relaxing beautiful late winter view. But for only a short time as there was still the long drive back to the big city before heading to work the next day. A visit to the shores of Lake Superior is always a great way to spend a day no matter what season it is.

Shoreline covered in ice

Ice, Snow, and Frost at Gooseberry

Winter continues to have a tight grip in Northern Minnesota. I love exploring the North Shore of Lake Superior in the winter even if it means trudging through deep snow to hike anywhere. The landscape seems so peaceful resting from a summer of growing. As I take in each detail of the rocky, icy rivers and waterfalls, little ice sculptures begin to appear. They’re so unique and beautiful! It’s calming to watch water rushing underneath these while trying to imagine how they’ve formed over the past couple of months.

Frost covered ice formations

To see the caverns tucked under the deep snow warns of possible danger should someone decide to venture over this ice cold water. Yet a peak at the snow above and ice below connected by each pillar of ice begs for a closer view. Deciding to walk out on top of this rushing water, following trails of others, I kneel down next to a rare open spot on the river to see frost clinging to these icicles. It’s mesmerized me causing me to forget it’s a cold, cloudy winter day next to the big lake. Reaching for the camera and focusing on the ice formations allows me to see even more of the detail coming together capturing them to admire over and over again. If only I had a macro lens with me and could get even closer to these, I would be lost here for hours.

Viewing these ice sculptures from further away

At first sight, the rushing water grabs your attention. But after watching for awhile you begin to see details surround this small, open portion of Gooseberry River carrying it’s ice cold payload to Lake Superior a short distance away. The ice formations floating above the moving water connected to the snow above with small pillars of ice hiding the numerous caves just behind. Soon these will all be gone with spring quickly approaching. In the next couple of weeks, these ice sheets will begin to melt carrying these sculptures down the river. For today there is plenty of snow taking over the landscape creating a beautiful winter wonderland.

One last picture of frost covered icicles floating above the river

Moving up and down the waterfalls, there are many areas I would like to explore but the afternoon is moving quickly and daylight will run out. Time for a little hike along the river banks enjoying the views. I had hoped to get out and see the lake shore at least for a few minutes but no such opportunity today. There was still the long drive home to come. I could see Lake Superior through the canyon carved by this river from a distance. Ice covered near the shore with that familiar open blue water as you looked out over the lake. That would be as close to it as I would get for this trip.

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Walking along the river, I was amazed at how much ice and snow was on top of the water. You could only tell by small areas of open water rushing downstream. The snow had to be four or five feet above these open areas. I couldn’t recall a time when I’ve seen the snow that deep. Once this all begins to melt I’m sure these waterfalls will be furious with all the water running over top. I’ll have to return in early spring to see it first hand.

A lot of snow covering Gooseberry River

The Vibrant Colors of Fall

Earlier this fall I went in search of beautiful fall landscapes with my family. I’m addicted ever since my camping trip to the North Shore last fall and the colors put on a spectacular show. This year is a different year, as they all are, and the colors were more challenging to find but they were there, just had to be found. There were pockets here and there as some trees had changed and quickly lost those leaves while others  remained green. It may not have been as grand s sight as a year ago, but it was still enjoyable to explore the North Shore of Minnesota as it’s a beautiful area nearly all of the time.

The variations of fall colors

Finding areas more protected from the wind allowing the trees to keep their vibrant leaves yielded those beautiful sights I was searching for. It was an amazing fall day with temperatures reaching the lower 70’s Fahrenheit under mostly sunny skies. Being able to see some incredible fall leaves only added to a relaxing day in the North woods. Much of the day was spent driving around gravel roads taking in the views, stopping on occasion to admire the show being put on by trees here and there.

Birch surrounded by spruce and fall colors

My photos tended to be more concentrated on these pockets of vibrant colors and the changing leaves themselves as a result of what was available. Still a beautiful sight as even these pockets were uncertain after a very dry summer. It was expected that the trees may just drop their leaves once cooler nights approached with shorter days. Fortunately there were some timely rains to provide enough moisture for these leaves to change and stay on the trees for many to see.

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We came across an area which I thought was available only to people participating in activities there but turned out to be open to visitors. This area had some amazing autumn displays, some of the best we came across on this afternoon. And there weren’t a lot of people using the trails and overlooks available to explore making it even more peaceful and enjoyable.

Amazing fall colors along the road

While on one of these trails, a grouse came on to the trail as if to lead us on a fall color tour for awhile. Eventually it decided to abandon the tour and continue on its way. A nice addition to this already beautiful afternoon!

Grouse leading on the trail

Catching a Beautiful Summer Sunrise

There are days when photographing the beautiful landscape around you comes at a cost. Often that cost is sleep. On this particular morning I wanted to capture the sunrise over Hayes Lake. A manmade lake surrounded by forest created from a small river flowing in that has been damned off. The challenge with being awake for the sunrise was that I had spent much of the night photographing the Milkyway rising from the horizon over this calm lake. And before that, the day included searching for Minnesota’s native orchids of which several were found, but that meant little rest during the day (and night). The conditions just presented the opportunity I was looking for for each of these possible photographs.

Native orchid blooming in Northern Minnesota

During the day, several orchids were in bloom and there was no rain expected (although passing showers popped up) making it a good opportunity to search for them. Along with spending hours in search of as many orchids as I could find, there were other native plants in bloom along with areas to explore all day long. Food? Not sure how important that really is. A few bites of something should be enough and on to the next area needing to be seen. After a day of adventure it was time to return to the campsite for a brief meal. Once this was complete, the sky continued to clear so out to do a little scouting for nighttime photos. An advantage of giving myself time was being able to enjoy the beautiful sunset. With just a few clouds floating across the sky, the colors provided a great end to the day.

Capturing the sunset the night before

With a little time before it would be dark enough to capture the night sky and a few potential places to set up the camera, I returned to the campsite and enjoyed an evening fire. As I started to relax I began to question if I really wanted to go back with the camera. My pillow was started to really call after a day of exploring and the time nearing midnight. As darkness engulfed the landscape, the stars shown brightly with not a cloud to hide them. A great situation to photograph the night sky with very little light pollution. One of the darkest skies I’ve had the chance to spend the night under. How could I possibly pass up this situation? Dragging myself into the car I returned to the lake where I was earlier and set up the camera. As those first pictures lit up on the screen I was re-energized and kept shooting away trying different things and different compositions. As the night wore on, fog began to develop across the lake making it more challenging to capture sharp pictures.

It was now after 3am and the sun would begin filling the horizon in just a few hours and this fog could make for some great sunrise photos. Do I just stay awake and enjoy the quiet morning hours? I decided to go back to the vehicle, turn on the heat to at least warm my hands and feet which were now pretty cold and see if I could get in a brief nap. Sleep could come back at the campsite once the sun made it’s way higher in the sky. At least that’s what I convinced myself of.  I woke to a small amount of light entering the area and a few minutes later was back out at the lake setting up for the imminent sunrise. Just as I had hoped, the fog continued to float across the glass like surface I had left a short time before. Continuing to shoot away, I was enjoying the world waking up around me welcoming a new summer day and eventually capturing the image at the top. Returning to get some sleep? A new day had arrived and there was more exploring to do. Maybe an early night to catch up…..

Milkyway over Hayes Lake

Training for the Mountain

In just a few short weeks I’ll be in Grand Teton National Park with my family preparing to climb Grand Teton. To prepare we’ve been doing a number of things such as strength training, cardio, and hiking. Recently we were up on the North Shore of Minnesota and stopped at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park to do some hiking. To help in our preparation we carry backpacks weighted down so our bodies can adjust to the additional weight before going on our 7 mile journey up a mountain where we’ll camp for 3 nights. Another piece to these training hikes it the opportunity to test different gear and food. Most of the equipment is stuff we’ve used before but a few items, such as our approach shoes, are new for this adventure. It’s these times we can really put them to the test and see how they perform. Food presents some different challenges when up in the mountains. It just tastes different at higher elevations and we need to make sure we really like what we’re eating. Otherwise it gets considerably more difficult to eat anything when you don’t really feel hungry and are not motivated by what tastes good.

On top of Corundum Point

During my last time camping in Split Rock, I explored some trails with my wife and found Corundum Point out over the bay from where I was on Lake Superior. At that point I knew some day I wanted to hike on top of the massive rocky point. You can view a of the photo from a distance by clicking on this link: Corundum Point. This seemed like a good opportunity to both get in some hiking and explore this granite cliff.

We arrived at the trailhead parking lot mid afternoon on a partly cloudy, cool late spring day on the North Shore. Climbing out of the car we began to prepare for the hike. Changing shoes, getting our backpacks ready to go, and using the bathrooms. As soon as we were ready it began to rain. We knew this was a possibility and made sure our rain gear was also with us. Showers were popping up but stayed pretty spotty so we decided to get back in the car and wait it out. Ten minutes later we were on the trail for a short 3 mile hike enjoying the northwoods views, sounds, and smells while remaining close to the shores of Lake Superior.

Coral Root orchid in bloom

During our trip the terrain was varied going up and down while staying pretty flat at other times. It’s used heavily enough that it’s fairly easy to follow but still requires navigation around rocks, tree roots, and uneven ground. At one point the rain began to lightly fall again so I brought out an umbrella. Had it been a heavier rain we could have used the rain coats and pants currently tucked inside each pack.

Before I knew it we were at Corundum point beginning the ascent to the top for a grand view of this large lake. Once on top we took some time to relax and enjoy our surroundings while grabbing a snack. Doing a little exploring on this interesting rock formation, a Peregrine Falcon made its presence known letting us know it knew we were there. I enjoyed watching as it flew back and forth over Lake Superior eventually settling back into the top of a tree. Soon it was time to throw the packs back on and return to the car.

View from Corundum Point

Shortly after hitting the trail back, I spotted an orchid just beginning to bloom. It was a large clustered Coral Root orchid beautifully starting to display its small flowers. I had hoped to spot a native orchid during our hike but expected to see Ladyslippers as they tend to be a lot easier to see and should be in bloom. The hike was already enjoyable but adding a hardy orchid makes it even more fun.

At one point on the trail there are steps assisting people to climb from the shoreline up the steep granite cliff, which seem to continue on forever. You get near the top and these steps take a turn continuing up through the trees which are effective at hiding the top. It’s probably good that the top is so well hidden otherwise it could be a challenge to keep motivated to climb them. Soon we were back at the trailhead and our time here was quickly disappearing. While I wasn’t ready to leave, I had a great afternoon with my daughters and a few memories to take with.

The stairs of health and fitness climbing up from the lake to the nearby ridge

A Moody Lake Superior

On the last night camping at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park this fall, a storm moved through the area signaling an end to our glorious warm fall days. During the night rain fell over the tent eventually fading to silence. As the morning light neared, wind began to blow through the trees above shaking remaining water droplets down over the ground. Off in the distance, the occasional boom could be heard. Laying there in the dark, I tried figure out what was causing this noise. Was it storms continuing to pass by?

With a sliver of light penetrating the cloudy skies, I exited the tent and began walking towards the shoreline for my last morning being greeted by Lake Superior. The closer I got to the water, the easier it became to identify this booming. Waves of this Great Lake were slamming into the rocky shoreline making terminating in a watery crash.

Lake Superior on a windy morning

I had seen pictures of incredible waves crashing against the cliffs of the North Shore in Minnesota but had not experienced such an event myself. The lake appeared to be angry this morning. Perhaps angry with fall for bringing with if colder days before winter battles with this grand lake to cover these waters with ice and snow. Or maybe it was merely reminding those becoming complacent that this, the largest lake, demands our respect.

These were not the mega waves in pictures I’ve seen before which showed the amazing power of water destroying parts of the immovable granite boulders creating the beautiful shoreline, but their smaller siblings. In those photos, Lake Superior seemed furious with reckless abandon even sinking ships positioned in the wrong place. These smaller waves were impressive as they connected with shore sending water high atop the cliffs creating sounds demanding respect. With several hours of driving and more places to explore along the way, it was time to leave and say goodbye to this place I enjoyed with my wife and others I’d met while watching the sun rise from the watery horizon. I could have stayed and watched each wave as it reached the rocks creating amazing fountains for much of the day but that was not meant to be. Good bye to this amazing wonder, which has bored a connection deep inside, until next we meet.

Waves slamming into the rocky shores of Lake Superior

Fall Colors in Northern Minnesota

While in Northern Minnesota earlier this fall, one day was set aside to drive through these northern forests to enjoy the beautiful fall displays. Starting out near the Minnesota – Canadian border, my wife and I took back roads venturing out in search of the best fall colors. We drove along rivers, lakes, inland, and along the Lake Superior coast. There were amazing colors in many places. Unfortunately is was a bit of a dreary day with mist hanging in the air and fog floating just above Lake Superior. Thankfully the forecasted rain seemed to be holding off.

A misty morning in the colorful forest

Cell phone service in this area is very spotty making this a perfect place to get away from work and stresses of everyday life allowing us to focus on the landscape as we slowly meandered through it. There were beautiful scenes all around us requiring a stop frequently to get out of the car and snap a few photos while taking in such surroundings. This was an interesting experience trying to navigate these unfamiliar roads knowing there was little access to help if we were to have a problem.

Looking out at a foggy Lake Superior

Each intersection required a decision as to which way we should go, which can be liberating as there was no destination other than to get back to our hotel at some point. Preferably before dark. The day was for exploring and nothing else. We had food from camping earlier in the week along with a grill and fuel so we wouldn’t starve. At least for a few days anyway. Our general direction was to eventually connect with the Gunflint Trail for a return trip to Grand Marais and on to Grand Portage.

Fall on the Lake

Our travels took us through the Grand Portage Reservation on through the Superior National Forest. Some of the roads were a bit dicey but we were able to make it through. Fortunately it had been a dry summer so there wasn’t much mud or puddles which could’ve significantly altered our adventure. Along the way we found an overlook for the Pigeon River valley with a grand view. On clear days I’m sure it’s even more spectacular looking out at the border between Minnesota and Canada. I could have spent half a day here just looking out at the details of this valley, but I also wanted to continue inland and explore more places. Who knows what may lie ahead?

Looking out over the Pigeon River valley

Continuing down the road we neared the Boundary Waters Canoe Area taking us to a number of different lakes to get out and enjoy the scenery. One of these stops had a loon still swimming in the calm waters. Must have been one of the last to begin the trek south from these northern locations. Eventually we arrived at East Bearskin Lake where I had camped with a college friend the year before. It was a nice way to end our exploration of the backcountry of Northern Minnesota with a scenic, calm lake where the aspen displayed their bright yellows reflected in the water below. From here we would join the Gunflint Trail and return to Grand Marais bringing an end to our fall foliage adventure.

Beautiful fall trees reflecting in a calm lake

Stargazing

Whenever I’m in a dark sky area I try to take some time to enjoy the night sky. Part of that involves doing some astrophotography. Something I really enjoy and keep trying to improve on. There aren’t a lot of opportunities throughout the year to do this but when they appear, it’s a lot of fun. Early in the summer I was in Northwestern Minnesota searching for orchids. During the night I was hopeful fireflies would be scooting across the sky providing some nice entertainment as they flash their little green lanterns in addition to doing some stargazing. As you can see in the first photo there were some fireflies illuminating beneath the beautiful Milkyway. These were some of the darkest skies I’ve seen producing a sky filled with twinkling lights.

Watching the sunset

After a day of orchid hunting it was time to slow down and enjoy the evening with a quick dinner followed by a scouting trip to find some potential spots to take in the night sky. Exploring nearby Hayes Lake revealed some possibilities for a clear view of the beautiful night sky while providing some nice reflections in the calm water. With that accomplished, relaxation was on the schedule as the sun dipped lower and lower towards the horizon on this calm, comfortable summer evening. If only the mosquitoes would relent it would be a perfect end to such an enjoyable day. As I watched the sun prepare to set, I searched for a few different ways to capture it with the camera while watching people as they caught a few fish from a nearby dock. This seemed like the definition of what a summer day in Minnesota should be.

Storms out on the horizon

As the sun slipped below the horizon, its light began to shine on cloud tops off in the distance. Storms where in the area. Fortunately they stayed south for the night. A little more time enjoying twilight and I returned to camp to for a small fire while the sky grew darker and darker around me. Tempted to retire for the day, or at least take a nap, I resisted becoming lost in the flames dancing from log to log in my campfire. Almost three hours had passed since leaving the setting sun and the sky had turned from a light blue to almost black filled with billions of twinkling lights above. The fireflies began their nightly courtship display darting from one place to the next. Energy was again returning as I gathered my equipment for a night of star picture taking.

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Arriving at the first spot I scouted earlier, I set up the camera and began to work on focusing the lens while tweaking my composition capturing the night sky. I couldn’t believe how incredible it all looked with the first couple of pictures. How could I decide between looking up at all these magnificent stars, fireflies, meteors shooting across the sky, and satellites or remaining focused on capturing all of this with the camera? While the camera was taking the picture I would just look up to take it in as the camera needs about a minute while the shutter was open. Then I looked at the shot just captured before adjusting and taking another one.  The night was flying by and before I knew it, several hours had passed. My time capturing the bright lights shining above came to an end as fog began to rise from the water hiding the landscape from the camera. I didn’t want this night to end but was very thankful for the time available. Only a couple of hours now until the sun returns.

Fog was beginning to rise from the lake