Category Archives: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Returning to Kilauea

While celebrating the New Year on the Big Island, one of the few things on our wish list was go back to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. On our last visit to this amazing park, it was just hours before a portion of the volcano wall collapsed causing a plume of smoke and ash to billow into the air. After that it began erupting in other places causing lots of destruction in its path and changing the volcano and island. This would be an amazing opportunity to see how much the volcano had changed during that time. During our first few nights on the island, the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park website warned that the eruption had paused. Since this was one of our intended things to do while here, we were disappointed and wondering if we would be able to see lava actively flowing. Our schedule remained flexible so we could adjust things around in the event lave began to flow once more. Just before going to bed halfway through our trip I checked the website. Lava had begun flowing once again earlier that day. Tomorrow we’ll drive across the island and explore an active volcano.

At the viewing area for Kilauea

About mid morning we climbed into our vehicle for the almost 2 hour drive from Kona to the National Park. Our goal was to be there at sunset to see the orange glow from lava filling into caldera so we started a little later in the morning. Once at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park we stopped at the visitors center, then drove to the overlook of the volcano. It was amazing to see how much larger the caldera had become since visiting 4 years earlier. Smoke was rising up this area but we couldn’t see any lava. It was a little disappointing to not be able to see any orange liquid oozing out from below the rock but it’s still an impressive view. I noticed what appeared to be people across the caldera walking to a different viewing area. Expecting it to be a relatively long hike and some people in our group being unable to walk that distance, I dismissed the thought of finding where the trailhead was for that. After examining the new caldera and signs showing the differences since this last eruption, we returned to the visitor’s center. I listened in to a Ranger talk about where to see the lava and what it takes to do so. He recommended returning very early in the morning when there are very few people at this viewing area they opened just weeks before. That wasn’t really an option for us since it’s such a long distance to drive so on to the next best option – joining hundreds of other people to witness sunset at the newly created viewing area.

Lava erupting from the caldera of Kilauea

A portion of our group opted for hiking the few miles to this overlook where you could actually see lava spewing from below the surface. In order to get a parking spot, we were advised to arrive in the area a couple of hours ahead of sunset. Once parked we spent a little time getting ready and those of us going to the viewing area began our hike. As it turned out, the hike was pretty easy as it was mostly using a paved road no longer in service. A short time later we were at the over look with daylight still presiding over the volcano and there it was. The orange glow of lava erupting. It was a surreal experience for me – very humbling to see with my own eyes. There were hundreds of other people also there so park rangers were trying to keep people rotating to the front for everyone to get a chance to see this natural wonder and it’s power to create the land we walk on. I spent some time photographing this awesome natural power, now understanding more why some many people are drawn to it. Respect is required of such a powerful force and has been shown through the centuries as so many have seen its destructive abilities allowing new life to emerge for many 100’s of years after. Eventually darkness fell over the volcano and the familiar orange glow was a vibrant, sole light source of the volcano. Watching the lava ebb and flow was so mesmerizing. Something I will remember for a very long time. With people waiting back at our vehicle, and a 2 hour drive ahead of us, it was time to depart this viewing area with memories and photographs. It was an incredible experience!

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Abstract Pieces of a Lava Flow

While exploring Volcanoes National Park in Hawaii we noticed many interesting shapes and forms of lava from previous flows. As we looked even closer at them the colors in some of these flows caught our attention causing us to wonder how those were created. Without seeing an actual eruption it was up to our imaginations as to the creation of these different forms and colors. The photo above shows what appears to be a little lava rock which, landed in this spot or was carried to this place by flowing lava, and remained hot for longer than the lava it landed on causing these red, orange, and yellow colorations seen in the photo. They probably were exposed as this lava rock cooled and began to split apart causing a piece to roll down the flow further.

Colorful Pahoehoe

These same reds, oranges, and yellows can be seen in other portions of this same lava flow bringing an added element to these interesting textures. Did this portion of lava also cool at different rates causing these colors to emerge in only certain areas? What would cause one area to cool faster than another? I’m certain some people understand what happened at one time to make these interesting patterns and colors especially now as they can study the new eruptions and flows currently creating new patterns, colors, and shapes.

Pahoehoe Lava

It amazing how different amounts of lava and lava temperatures combined with the terrain it’s going over can create so many unique types and shapes of rock. Some lava is smooth which is called pahoehoe which is the type shown in the photo above. Below shows another form of lava called a’a. This type looks like a bunch of smaller rocks. As you look closer there are multiple colors all mixed together which combine to look like a dark grey field from a distance. Our time was short to continue looking for more interesting pieces and forms created from an old lava flow but it was fun to have at least a little time to examine lava rock and find the different shapes and colors. Sometimes we forget to take time to really see what makes up a landscape especially if you just get use to viewing it everywhere around you.

 

A'a lava

A Return to the Volcano

It’s 4:27 am and I’m rolling over to shut off the alarm before it wakes anyone else wondering if I really want to get up and drive back into the park for another view of the volcano. After debating for a minute or so with myself I decide to get up and get dressed. Fortunately I had company as my cousin is with and decides to join me on another ridiculous morning adventure. When will we be here again to see this active volcano?

Fortunately one of the priorities of this trip was to witness the glow of lava during the night so we planned a one night stay just outside of the park in Volcano, HI making our early morning journey a fairly quick one. Within 15 minutes of leaving our lodge we were staring at the glowing coming from the top of the mountain. It looked like a large fire was burning off in the distance. Walking closer to Jagger Museum patio while scarfing down the last of a quick breakfast we could see the glow intensify as smoke continuously billowed from the caldera.

The volcano glowing under the moonlight

Over the next hour or so I just kept taking photographs of this almost unreal sight. In the above photo you can see a few stars along with the moon shining high above the volcano although it appears more like a star in this picture. Eventually I realized there was lava spatter erupting just above the rim from time to time. Seeing lava was something I hoped to accomplish while visiting Hawaii but the accessible flows had stopped a few days prior making it unlikely to spot and yet here was actual lava. The whole concept of standing on top of this mountain watching an active volcano spitting out lava seemed almost more of a dream than a fortunate reality. This was something I never imagined I would do during my life and here I was witnessing the continued creation of this island with my own eyes.

Lava erupting from the lava lake at the top of Kilauea

Daylight began to break across the horizon reducing the glow from the lava lake while my cousin and I realized just how much we were shivering as it was quite cool in the night air. It didn’t help that I wasn’t properly dressed for being at a higher elevation for an extended time only wearing shorts and a sweatshirt. Definitely worth getting up a little early to see!

Daylight entering the sky around Kilauea

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

There was one day set aside to explore Hawaii Volcanoes National Park so not a great deal of time. Making things a little less interesting was rain at the top of Kilauea making it difficult to see much and decreasing our motivation to venture too far from the car. Still we were determined to do all that we could on this final National Park adventure. Arriving mid-morning our first destination was the Kilauea Visitor Center to learn a little about this area and the active volcanoe we were standing on. Looking over the exhibits explaining what was creating this mountain and the surrounding new land along with plants and animals inhabiting it brought us to lunchtime. There really wasn’t a good place to eat nearby that we knew of plus our plan was for to have a picnic while taking in some amazing views. The rain outside indicated we needed to make other arrangements so looking over the park we found some possible places to sit and eat under dry skies at the end of Chain of Craters Road which was next to the ocean and away from the rain at a lower elevation.

Holei Sea Arch created by the ocean carving out lava rock

After a short break eating, it was time to explore the coast in front of us a little and work our way back up to the summit of the volcano. Just looking out over the ocean was beautiful with the blue water and waves crashing against the shore. Examining the shoreline closer, which is really a cliff plummeting into the water made from a lava flow in 1971 which has been eroding ever since, we discovered a sea arch nearby. An interesting structure protruding from the cliff defying the brutal ocean waves which continually beat against it. Looking even closer the designs throughout this cliff wall made some interesting patterns and colors from all of the different layers of lava flowing at different times binding itself together to form new ground. You can make some of this out in the very top photograph.

 

Exploring a lava flow just under the clouds

A little bit of time to explore this cliff wall and stare into the sea and we began to ascend back up the mountain towards the smoldering volcano summit. Along the way we stopped to explore some of these lava flows just below the clouds more closely finding different types of lava formations. It was some much fun and amazing to see the different patterns and colors created from lava which flowed 45 years ago. Some has smoother edges more like a mud flow might have while other lava created sharper rocks that, from a distance, appear like dark, rich soil to grow crops in. This is not the case as there is almost nothing growing on it still after 45 years of inactivity.

What looks like a great, rich soil is lava rocks created from a lava flow

Returning to the car we continued higher up the mountain and soon became enveloped in clouds followed by rain. We wanted to see the popular Thurston Lava Tube which is a cave created by flowing lava at one time. Bravely we donned raincoats and ventured out into the rain to explore this cave. With soaked shoes we entered this tropical cave feeling like we were entering something out of the movie Jurassic Park. Hoping for a dry place we found water dripping from the ceiling and large puddles across the floor. Fortunately the floor was lit up so you could make you way through this portion of the lava tube avoiding many of these puddles. Still it was an eerie experience to know large volumes of lava flowed through here not all that long ago to make this and this mountain is still an active volcano.

Thurston Lava Tube

Making our way back to the car having been thoroughly soaked by rain and standing water we continued on to the top of the volcano to catch a glimpse of the large lava lake. Nearing the crater there were steam vents all around trying to alert us to the fact that there is hot lava close by. Still we drove on until arriving at the Jaggar Museum which stands at the side of the crater looking into this volcano. The clouds were covering this mountain making it near impossible to see anything so we headed inside to explore more exhibits and learn about this area. After some time looking things over the clouds cleared a little revealing more details of the mountain summit so I headed outside to look around. Shortly after getting outside there was a large clap of thunder. Excited to see a storm I scanned all around looking for lightning but found none. And then another clap of thunder and I decided seeking shelter might be a good idea. Once inside a ranger told us that it was not thunder we were hearing but rocks moving inside the volcano crater. That was kind of cool to hear and yet a little unsettling at the same time that there are large enough rocks moving to create a sound like that.

Top of the Kileaua Volcanoe

Unfortunately there was no erupting lava to be seen on this cloud filled day and the active lava flow had stopped flowing a couple of days before we arrived. It was a little disappointing to go all the way to Hawaii and visit an active volcano and not have the opportunity to witness actual lava with our own eyes and feel the heat protruding off of it. In a last ditch effort to see some lava I did return another time which I will write about later.