Category Archives: Adventures

Adventures, Backpacking, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

A Trip to Rainbow Cove

As our first day on Isle Royale was coming to a close we decided to take others advice and head to Rainbow Cove on the eastern edge of the island to watch the setting sun to the west out over Lake Superior. After hiking 9 miles with heavy packs on our backs, hiking nearly another mile might seem a little too ambitious. Surprisingly, after a little time sitting at camp, the soreness in my legs and back disappeared although the energy level was still low after a long day getting to the island and getting to Feldtmann Lake were we were camping for the night. This was probably the only chance to catch a sunset here so if we didn’t go we would miss the opportunity even though we were actually staying in this area for two nights. The next night clouds were expected to cover the sky with possible rain showers or even a thunderstorm so off to Rainbow Cove we went. Without all that weight resting on our shoulders it actually was a nice hike over beautiful terrain.

Something just doesn't seem quite right

Along the way we enjoyed all of the blooming flowers, smell, and scenery of the north country trapped in Lake Superior. At one point during a conversation I turned to look back at my cousin who was walking behind me and out of the corner of my eye, I noticed something didn’t seem quite right. Quickly looking back I realized we were being watched by a moose. I kept walking until there was a larger tree between me and this moose which was just standing there watching as we passed by. Now having a little protection, the question was to keep going as we were really too close to this animal or stop and watch and possibly capture a photo or two. Well, given the pictures above and below you can guess what we did. Fortunately this particular moose didn’t seem real interested in defending her area and just continued to watch us while we watched her back and snapped a few photos. While taking in this lucky encounter, another hiker came behind us. He stopped abruptly once he looked up and saw we were stopped, looking at something in the woods. I could tell when he realized what we were looking at by the surprised look on his face from being so close to this large animal. Moose have been know to be quiet aggressive and with their size can cause substantial harm so we didn’t stay too long. Besides, the sun would be nearing the horizon soon. Back to the trail.

A moose on the side of the trail

Eventually we made our way to Rainbow Cove and collapsed on the beach. What a great spot to just sit and relax, listening to the gentle waves wash up against the pebble filled shoreline as the sun continued it’s trek toward the horizon. After some time had passed and other hikers began to join us on the beach I decided I should try and capture a few photos since I did drag the camera and tripod all the way here. Wanting to just continue sitting and enjoy the surroundings, I knew I would regret it if I didn’t come back with some pictures to remind me of the experience. Picking up the camera I began to try a few different compositions but my energy wasn’t truly up to the task. There are a few shots that show just how beautiful this area is even still. The setting sun was blocked by several clouds so the colors I had hoped to see, and photograph, didn’t materialize like I’d hoped. It was a worthwhile adventure regardless.

Sunset at Rainbow Cove

As we were just about ready to work our way back, something appeared to be heading our way along the shoreline. As it approached we could tell it was another moose stopping to munch on some leaves while working its way up the beach. Now what do we do? The best thing to do when a moose is near is find a tree to stand next to and keep still. Here we are exposed on the beach. A moose is a much better swimmer than we are and would be able to out run us into the trees a short distance behind. With nowhere to really go we watched as the moose continued closer and closer. It seemed as though the moose didn’t really care about the National Park Service’s rules about how far to stay away from these animals as this one was clearly in violation of it. Finally, as it got uncomfortably close it heading back into the island. Unfortunately it happened to be close to the trail we needed to take back to our campsite. Waiting for about 10 minutes or so we figured it should be safe to head back as this moose should have moved far enough away from the trail. We were in luck!

Getting back on the trail there was no sight or sound of this large creature. Finding our pace towards camp, I walked past a large group of shrubs and immediately saw the moose again. It was facing away from us while continuing to eat until it saw me at the same time. In a moment it was turned towards me and charging. I quickly moved back behind the shrubs I’d passed and the moose stopped. Waiting another 5 minutes, my cousin decided to see if the moose had safely moved on. He slowly moved to the clearing away from these shrubs looking for the moose. It was still there facing the opposite direction eating. Again it turned quickly and charged a second time. Immediately he retreated behind the shrubs once again and the moose stopped just like before. Now I was getting concerned as it was getting dark and our flashlights were back at camp. We intended to be back before dark overtook Isle Royale. Who expected to be trapped by a moose this long? Another 10 minutes passed and we tried again. This time the moose was gone thankfully. I enjoy seeing these moose but not when one is being aggressive as night is approaching. With just a hint of light still in the air we made our way back to camp for the night and crawled into the tent. What an amazing first day on Isle Royale!

What do we do now?

Adventures, Photos, Troy's Blog

Inspiration Returns

I don’t remember when I was this excited to be holding a camera. It was probably early this year out photographing winter scenes and snowflakes. While in Utah early this spring I had fun photographing some of the incredible landscapes but the excitement and motivation wasn’t as strong as it typically is when out with a camera. Most of the time, for the last four months or so, the camera stayed in its case. When I did pull it out, the batteries were usually low. That’s very unusual. As soon as a battery is running out of power I immediately put it on the charger so it’s ready to go the next time there’s an opportunity to go out. Even on this trip to Northern Minnesota I felt a lack of inspiration. I was extremely excited for this adventure to the Gunflint Trail since I’d never been to that part of Minnesota but photographing it didn’t really interest me. For the first couple of days I couldn’t see much I really wanted to capture with the camera. I knew it was a lack of inspiration because there had to be many, many opportunities of things to photograph. That all passed in a matter of minutes on this morning.

The flowers of a Blue Bead Lily

All of a sudden there were so many things to capture with the camera. I couldn’t get them all fast enough. There were so many ideas running through my mind. So many pictures I wanted to try. And to think, I was wrestling with myself to even get out of bed to see the mornings sunrise. A portion of that was only getting a little over 4 hours of sleep. Also the sunrise the previous morning was nice but lacked the spectacular features of a stunning sunrise, adding to my lack of interest in getting up. Thankfully I did trade my nice warm bed for the cool, Northern Minnesota air on this day.  In the previous post I wrote about the early portion of the sunrise but once the sun broke above the fog, I moved on to other subjects all around me. I had just moved from my original spot near a canoe launch back to the waters’ edge by our cabin when overhead flew a small flock of ducks which landed near the canoe launch.

Redhead ducks without their colorful fall plumage

I watched them for a short time before deciding to try and sneak back to the canoe launch and capture these unfamiliar ducks to me. They cooperated and stayed put while I set up the tripod as quietly as possible and began to photograph them. After awhile of swimming back and forth beyond my view I noticed they seem to be making their way towards me so I got the camera ready and stayed still. Success! They swam right in front of me before realizing something was there they didn’t recognize causing them to slowly move away back towards my cabin area. I hustled to get over there but they had swam faster than I could walk and were just leaving the area when I arrived. Unfortunately I was experiencing difficulties in getting my camera to focus and take pictures so the photo above is the best one I managed to get. Several other opportunities were missed because of my technical issues but it was fun nun the less. (These issues were due to a dirty shutter button which I fixed right after this trip)

Equisetum covered in large drops of dew

As the sun continued its climb I noticed my shoes were quite wet. While that’s not very comfortable it also means a lot of dew clinging to everything providing more photo opportunities. One of my challenges has been to isolate these drops and get a clear shot of the reflections coming through them. In the photo above of equisetum I felt like I accomplished that. In addition, the lines running up and down this stem really stand out against a blurry background. It took me a little bit to get all of this set up but worth the outcome. At this point the dew drops were beginning to disappear under the warming sunlight so I needed to hurry a little. I tried a few different plants, attempting to find an interesting perspective highlighting these drops of water when the leaves of these Marsh Marigolds stood out. I love how the sunlight highlights the ridges and valleys of this leaf created by the veins and leaf shape. Adding in the water droplets makes it even more interesting to me because they really highlight the iridescence contained in the leaf surface and contrast nicely with the lines. So much fun!

Dew covered leaf

As the dew continued to fade I moved on again to other subjects as they shined in the beautiful morning sun. Below is the partial flower of a Marsh Marigold with a fly warming itself up in the rising sun while beginning it’s day of moving from one flower to the next. Even though half of the petals had already fallen off I liked this particular one because the anthers and stigmas were visible with a few petals behind them. It was like a cross section of the flower with the lines created flowing to the fly for an interesting composition. I then moved on to the Blue Bead Lilies which I wanted to capture before needing to leave this campground. The yellow, bell shaped flower in the second picture above is of a Blue Bead Lily. I eventually had to stop to grab some breakfast and pack up the campsite but what an invigorating day. My excitement to get out with the camera has remained every since.

My motivation and inspiration returned on this morning. We just never know when or what will reignite our passion but I’m grateful it happens.

Fly warming up on a Marsh Marigold

Adventures, Photos, Troy's Blog

A Sunrise Worth Waking Up For

Slowly opening my eyes, I could see a touch of light entering through the window. I grabbed my watch from the nearby floorboard I set it on before falling asleep and saw that it was 4:30. That’s 4:30 A.M.! Having stayed up enjoying a campfire the night before, it was a real struggle to keep from just rolling over and going back to sleep after only a little over 4 hours of rest. I got up the morning before and enjoyed the sunrise so I can just sleep through this one, right? Laying there a few more minutes, almost returning to dreamland, I finally decided to get up for the sunrise after which I would return to my bed for a few more hours of desired shut eye. Adding to the challenge of getting up was the cool temperatures outside while being nice and warm inside my sleeping bag. Besides, looking out my little window from the bed, the sky looked like it was completely clear. Typically a beautiful sunrise involves some clouds to capture some of the suns amazing colors reflecting off of them. Grumbling I slowly got out of the cozy sleeping bag, put on some clothes,and grabbed the camera.

Light on the horizon

Once outside my demeanor changed. I love the early mornings watching the sky grow brighter and brighter while birds begin to chirp. Arriving a few steps to the edge of the lake by our cabin I was immediately grateful for the motivation it required to get out of bed as the scene in front of me was breath taking. While there were very few clouds, fog rising off of the calm water made for an amazing view. My current camera set up would never do. I headed quickly back towards my car to get a different lens and a second camera with another lens along with the tripod. Rushing back towards the waters’ edge I set up the cameras and began shooting away. I just couldn’t believe how beautiful the landscape was in front of me. The pristine water reflecting this incredible light making its way through the fog and I was the only one awake to witness such a view. Part of me felt disappointed others were missing this sunrise and at the same time I was thankful for this solitary moment. My adrenaline was flowing and the lack of sleep was nowhere to be felt.

A morning visitor

In a short time I discovered I was not alone. A curious beaver drifted near while eating a morning meal and watching as I switched between photographing with one camera and then the next  while taking some time to just be in the moment and enjoy the spectacular surroundings. Everything so calm and beautiful. A moment that stops all that is going on in the world. A moment so beautiful you almost don’t want to take another breath for fear of it being gone. But you do and realize it’s all still there, and if possible, better than the previous moment. The sun starting to shine through the tree tops making it’s way through the fog casting a soft, yellow light over everything. It’s warmth now making its way to my cool face bringing the realization I was a little cold. Everything was so beautiful I didn’t even feel this cold penetrating through me. Closing my eyes for a second or two, I could feel the sun’s summer strength being absorbed inside of me. Opening my eyes once again I could see this beautiful sunrise beginning to fade.

Sunlight making it's way above the trees

Quickly the sun made it’s way above the trees, becoming brighter and brighter as the dawn gave way to day and this beautiful experience came to a close. This is one of the reasons I love photographing things. I can look back on these photos and return to this moment. Remembering the struggle to get out of bed, rushing around to gather my gear, and walking to different locations to find the spot to photograph from. All ending with this gorgeous moment of beauty and calmness not only on the water but within myself.

Rolling out of bed and experiencing this sunrise re-ignited my passion for photography. For the past several months before this, I didn’t really want to touch my camera. I couldn’t explain why because I didn’t understand why. And for the most part I was ok with that. There were moments where I took photos because I knew I should but my heart wasn’t really into it. They would sit on my memory card for weeks or more which is unlike me. I just didn’t want to even take the time to look over them. That’s how I know my inspiration is lacking. Typically I can’t wait to see pictures I’ve just taken. There’s always something I’m excited to look at. This morning’s sunrise brought back my passion and excitement. I continued to photograph for another couple of hours and never did return to my bed except to pack it up in order to move on to another campsite.

An early morning with the sun higher in the sky

Adventures, Backpacking, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

Hiking to Feldtman Lake

And we’re off! The Feldtman Lake Trail is listed at just under 9 miles from Windigo and we have no real good idea how our group will perform. How many stops will we need? What pace can we maintain? Our goal is to get our camp set up before dark reaches the island. It was almost noon when we started and sunset was about 10pm on the island so ten hours to make it there. On our last Isle Royale adventure in 2012, we averaged 1.5 miles per hour. That was seven years ago though. If we can maintain that average we should be able to complete nine miles in six hours which would get us to the campground about 6pm. Plenty of time to get set up and cook food before the sun falls below Lake Superior.

The start of Feldtman Lake Trail

The first two miles of this adventure were familiar because on the first day of our last Isle Royale trip we explored the area to an overlook on this exact trail. I knew there was a fairly steep climb leading to the overlook for our first nice challenge. The overlook would be a good spot to rest with the packs off for a short time and let us know where we are for speed. Fortunately our energy was high and the trail was beautiful with plants at peak flower causing me to forget about the weight on my back from time to time. There were even a few different types of orchids in bloom which was really exciting to see. After the first mile we began to head up in elevation causing us to really become warm after shivering on the boat ride to the island. Now I get to see if all of my preparations to be physically ready paid off. There was a bit of a strain on my legs in this section of the trail and my breathing became quite labored just before reaching the summit but all in all I felt pretty good. Like I could make this hike reasonably well.

Spring flowers in full bloom along the trail

Reaching the overlook, I checked the time and saw our pace was at my expectations. And the nice part was the rest of the trail is downhill. Finding a spot to set our backpacks down, we grabbed a drink of water and admired the view (photo at the top of the post). After a few minutes of scanning the island from this high point we sat for a few minutes and found some food to keep our energy levels up for the remaining seven miles. Feeling good and a little anxious to see what lies ahead, we hefted our heavy packs back on top of our shoulders and continued on. There were a few ripe wild strawberries in the are so I  harvested a couple for a nice little fresh fruit on the trail. Quite tasty although barely the size of a pea. It would take a lot of these for a nice meal. Up on the ridge the temperature was estimated to be in the upper 70’s Fahrenheit so it was warm and we were now hiking in the sunlight.

One of the many obstacles on this trail

Thankfully the shade of trees arrived a short distance later helping to keep us cool. Although they also became obstacles from time to time which we happily overcame. A downed tree was a great place to lean against and take much of the backpack weight off of our shoulders from time to time revitalizing our legs and backs before continuing on. Over the course of the afternoon we would stop every couple of miles to remove the heavy weight being carried on our backs, grab something to eat quickly, and sip some water making sure to ration so there was enough until we could refill. About halfway to Feldtman Lake, the thimbleberry bushes began their attack. These are fairly tall bushes with stiff branches and large leaves which continually ate at our legs leaving behind some nice gouges for us to remember them by. As we continue to move we only encountered one other hiker headed towards Windigo and two hikers on their way to Feldtman Lake. They passed us during one of our breaks to regain the lead. We caught up to them again right at Feldtman Lake.

Our campsite at Feldtman Lake

I had decided it was time for another break and sat down briefly to find a little relief from my backpack as the weight was really causing soreness in my shoulders and lower back. Also I wanted our group to be rejoined to make sure everything was going ok. A few minutes passed and looking at a clock and miles already hiked told me there should only be a small portion left ahead. That was all the motivation I needed to put the pack back on knowing it should only be for another 20 minutes at the most. As it turned out, I turned a corner and saw the metal sign showing the location of all of the campsites. We had made it! Moving towards the campground, there was an open site but wasn’t right on the lake so we kept looking. There were a few others open but this first one we spotted seemed like the best remaining place to pitch our tent so we walked in the cleared area and set our backpacks down for the last time on this day. What an amazing feeling! It was like I was walking on air or had springs in my shoes without that thing attached weighing me down. And it was just after 6pm so there was plenty of time to enjoy camp yet.

The first moose sighting

A few minutes after setting down the packs and pulling out the tent, a moose was spotted not far away in Feldtman Lake. We headed to a nice viewing spot to take in some wildlife viewing and relax for a moment. I had hoped we would see a moose or two on this adventure and here one was to welcome us to our first camping spot. After a few minutes, the moose headed back into the woods so we returned to our evening chores of getting the tent set up with sleeping pads and sleeping bags. Once complete we began preparing our one hot meal of the day talking about that days adventures and what we wanted to do with the few remaining sunlit hours. A trip to Rainbow Cove was recommended by multiple people so that seemed like a good way to end our first day on Isle Royale.

Map of the days hike

Adventures, Troy's Blog

Canoeing in the BWCA

In order to camp in the Boundary Waters of Minnesota, a permit is needed and these can be challenging to get as they’re often reserved well in advance for the popular summer months. One alternative is to camp or stay in a lodge just outside of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area or BWCA. This was my choice for visiting this vast wilderness in the middle of June. While on a Northern Minnesota adventure with a friend from college, we spent a couple of days in one of the US Fish and Wildlife cabins in a Superior National Forest campground near one of the many entry points of the BWCA. There initially were no plans to rent a canoe and spend a day paddling in the Boundary Waters, but there really were no plans other than to relax in this beautiful place.

A quiet sunrise in the BWCA wilderness

Early one morning I got up to watch the sunrise, hoping to see a moose in the water under the brightening sky. There were no moose but it was still an amazing sunrise in this beautiful wilderness. An occasional call from a distant loon interrupted the near silence on this peaceful and calm morning. As the sun climbed higher in the skies I realized it would be such a mistake to come all the way to the edge of the Boundary Waters and not spend some time exploring this pristine place. I’ve thought about an adventure in this area several times but have never actually pursued one. What is it like canoeing among these clear lakes and camping under the bright stars of this north country? Returning to the cabin I suggested we rent a canoe from a nearby outfitter and answer these questions. After making breakfast we packed up some supplies along with our fishing gear and headed out to Clearwater Lake for the day. After filling out the necessary permit and renting a canoe, we were off towards the solitude of the BWCA.

Fishing while paddling down the lake

From the outfitter, you have to paddle about a quarter of the lake before entering the designated wilderness which really didn’t take long. The day before we had explored this area a little by vehicle and found a boat landing just outside of the BWCA. After passing that landing on this morning we knew it was a short distance to the protected area and we were now inside this often heard about place. A short time later we encounter the first campsite. It struck me by surprise there was a campsite that close to the edge of the Boundary Waters. This one was occupied so I would have to wait for another campsite to check out what they are like. Continuing on down Clearwater Lake, I spotted an area on the opposite side of the lake that appeared to be another camping area. Some of these are well hidden but once you have an idea of what you’re looking for you can start to spot some of the signs such as a worn area where others have taken their canoes out of the water. We pulled up to this place and confirmed it was a campsite. Getting out of the canoe and pulling it ashore, it was time to see a Boundary Waters Canoe Area campsite. From stories I had heard they generally have a clearing for the tent, a metal fire ring, and a pit toilet. The spot for tents and fire ring were obvious. Others had placed logs for a place to sit but where was the toilet? Searching some worn foot paths I soon found it. Just a toilet sitting on top of a dug out pit with no shelter or privacy other than trees and shrubs around it. Grabbing a snack and exploring for a few minutes and it was time to return to the water.

One of many camping spots throughout this wilderness

Eventually we made our way to the other end of the lake, fishing along the way, where another campsite existed just before needing to portage to another nearby lake. We spent some time at this campsite in order to eat and do a little fishing from shore. I did manage to catch one but it released itself from my hook and rolled all the way back into the water before I could catch it. While enjoying this spot I heard what sounded like thunder. Quickly making my way back to the canoe I could see storm clouds blowing in from behind us. I guess we’ll be waiting that out here before paddling back up the lake to the outfitter. Fortunately it wasn’t a strong storm and moved quickly overhead with a few flashes of lightning. Once we were sure it was safe to enter the water we began paddling back to end our time in this beautiful wilderness. There was one issue though. The storm had brought high winds which stayed once the weather had passed. Now we had to fight these in order to get back. It took most of our strength with no chance to rest to fight these winds for nearly the entire length of Clearwater Lake. We would pull into a tree near shore once in awhile to rest our arms for a few minutes but then it was back at it paddling at full strength. Before nightfall arrived we managed to get back to the outfitter, tired but satisfied with our Boundary Waters adventure. I hope to return someday and spend a little more time on these waters. Maybe even do a portage once to complete the experience.

A storm blowing in from behind us

Adventures, Jeep Badge of Honor, Troy's Blog

Poison Spider

Our third trail was one we were initially very nervous about and hesitant to even attempt due to the difficulties and challenges presented from steep rock ledges and longer climbs on slick rock. After successfully navigating Elephant Hill and Top of the World with fewer difficulties than expected we decided to take a run at Poison Spider. A powerful, yet intimidating name for a trail. What would we encounter with a name like that? Making it to the trailhead and trail prep area brought us along the Colorado River running through a beautiful canyon causing us to slow down to admire the surroundings to enjoy the amazing sights created from thousands of years of geology and carving forming this masterpiece now before us. The trailhead almost came up too fast as the canyon continues on for miles and miles, but we were here for a purpose. And that purpose was an off-road challenge.

Stuck on rocks

While getting the tires ready for another off road adventure we wondered around, striking up conversations with some of the other enthusiast also getting their vehicles ready for a Utah adventure sharing a camaraderie common among four wheeling. Everything now ready it was time to go. The trail begins with a difficult climb right off the bat on a narrow trail looking into this canyon we just drove through. Too close to the edge and it’s straight down to the valley floor. Not something we wanted to experience! Within minutes of starting we found ourselves in trouble. We’ve managed to do what we’ve been trying to avoid this whole time. Becoming centered on rocks keeping both front and back tires from getting enough traction to pull the vehicle over these rocks. Trying to move back and fourth only dug holes in the loose sand causing the problem to get worse. And to make it even more stressful, here come other off roaders behind us. Fortunately they were extremely helpful and immediately began working to get us free by digging out around the tires and placing rocks for them to hopefully grab onto and raise the vehicle up and over the ones hanging us up. After quite a bit of work and trying to get out of our predicament, we realized why we had gotten stuck in the first place – we were not in 4 wheel drive! Enacting this important feature and shifting the Jeep into first gear, it crawled right out as if to emphasize our mistake and add this stupidity to its tally of blunders we’ve made.

Climbing rock ledges

After being stuck at the beginning of Poison Spider we really questioned the intelligence of continuing on the most difficult trail we had planned to drive this week. With no place to really turn around and several other people behind us we forged on. Soon the trail began to have a familiar comfort of others around Moab with some unique challenges. Around some corners, steep rock ledges would appear requiring a closer examination of the trail before driving the vehicle over to avoid more problems for the Jeep to put on its list. Many were less complicated than originally thought as this four wheel, off road truck relatively easily climbed up and over each one giving more confidence in our adventure. And then we rounded a corner with a broken down machine to one side. After assisting them to get them back to the trailhead we were back at it, although a bit more cautious so as to not break something on our truck.

Tires barely gripping the slick rock as we climb up

Eventually we arrived at the point I was most concerned about, a long climb up narrow slick rock with each tire hanging on rock edges by mere inches. Watching videos of this trail I saw other Jeeps tip over on this part of the trail. What would we do if our Jeep tipped? Fortunately there was little to be concerned about if you approach this smartly and take your time climbing up this V shaped hill. At a couple of points we thought the bead broke on a tire which would require a change once on more level ground but all tires were in tact and holding air bringing a sigh of relief. There were several other steep climbs which became a bit more concerning as rain showers moved into the area. Thankfully they only produced a few drops which quickly dried up so we could continue on this enjoyable trail. As mid day approached we wanted to find a nice spot to stop and grab a bite to eat. Fortunately Little Arch was nearby which is a fun rock feature found on Poison Spider. A perfect spot to get out of the Jeep and take in a few sights while getting some nourishment. Once lunch was complete we spent a little time taking some pictures of the arch and continued on our way back down towards the trailhead completing this fun off road trail. A really enjoyable trail which provided beautiful scenery, challenging off road climbs, and some new experiences to add to our Moab adventure. At this point in the trip the realization that we were near the end of this adventure began to set in. Fortunately there still was one more day to try another trail before leaving this big playground.

A bonus stone arch on the Poison Spider trail - Little Arch

Adventures, Isle Royale National Park, Troy's Blog

A Return to Isle Royale

It’s been too long since the last time backpacking on Isle Royale. A trip was planned a couple of years ago that had to be canceled but finally, this summer we were able to return. It’s a little weird writing that since the last time, in August 2012, I was very certain I never wanted to return and do another backpacking trip. Funny how things change. This time I was so excited to see the island again. To be immersed in it’s wilderness and to hike the route I originally wanted to hike the last time – The Feldtmann Loop. Thankfully we didn’t hike this route last time as it requires some dedication and is more physically challenging. I wouldn’t have enjoyed it. Carrying a very heavy pack and never having backpacked before would have made it an awful experience I think. Hopefully I’m better prepared with a little more knowledge and can enjoy such a physical adventure.

Just about to board the Seahunter III

Waking up early after a late night of traveling to Grand Portage, if there was any sleep this past night, the nerves began to set in. Because there’s a time change just to the east of Grand Portage, our phones were reading a different time than the hotel clocks. Which one was right? We have to complete our packing and get to the ferry docks to begin a day of hiking. The trip takes about two hours which gets us to the island mid-morning. Will we be able to make camp at Feldtmann Lake before dark? How will we do hiking 9 miles with backpacks much heavier than I wanted. Mine was over 40 pounds and I was hoping to have it at 30 pounds or less. I remember being miserable with such a heavy pack the last time with a sore back in multiple places, sore feet, and legs and that was only 5 miles. We made it to the docks with plenty of time and even stopped for breakfast to eat on the way. Our packs were finally fully packed and loaded into the boats storage area and it was time to just enjoy this moment. I couldn’t tell if I was more excited or nervous. My youngest daughter was with me and she was somewhat hesitant to come on this trip to begin with. Would she enjoy it with the more extensive hikes and more weight? She was afraid to be the weak link in our hiking group and feared holding us back. I just wanted to have this time with her and for her to have a great and memorable experience. Sharing this time with her was something I had been really looking forward to so now it was time to just take in the moment and be thankful for this tremendous opportunity.
The ancient and sacred Little Spirit Tree

Just before boarding the crew informed us that the water temperature was in the low 40’s Fahrenheit and it would be a cold trip so bring some additional layers to keep warm if we had them. I grabbed my fleece coat for additional warmth but anything else would require unpacking so I decided to endure the couple of hours of gliding through the cold waters. Shortly after departing the docks the ferry tends to stop for a short view of the Witch Tree, also known as the Little Spirit Cedar Tree. It is a gnarled old tree estimated to be over 400 years old growing out of the rocks on the shoreline of Lake Superior near Grand Portage, Minnesota. This is a sacred tree to the local Ojibwa. I’m always amazed to think something can grow, essentially in rocks, and endure the extreme winter weather for such a long period of time. And now it was time to turn and continue our journey towards Isle Royale.

Isle Royale is visible on the horizon

Off on the horizon you can begin to make out the tree line of this National Park. It’s hard to believe it takes so much time to travel this distance but that’s because it’s surprising how far away it really is. The trip covers 22 miles of Lake Superior. It was difficult to remain calm and try to enjoy our journey but I was nervous about the days hike and just wanted to begin. About halfway the cold waters began to make there way through our jackets as we began to shiver. The crew was absolutely correct about the journey being cold. Not that I thought they were wrong to begin with. I wrapped my arms around Kristen hoping to bring some warmth to her. I didn’t want her expending additional energy just trying to stay warm. She would need it later. In a few hours, I knew we would all be hot once again and just kept telling myself that the cold air was only temporary and to continue to enjoy the sights and our time on the boat as much as possible. About half way the Rock of Ages lighthouse became visible and a marker telling us how close to the island we were.

Entering Washington Harbor

Soon the lighthouse moved from east of the boat to west as we passed into the National Park. The details of trees and stone creating this incredible landscape became closer signaling our arrival back to this beautiful wilderness. The nerves were beginning to give way to excitement and the cold was being chased away by thoughts of wildlife and wildflowers. Would there be wild orchids in bloom on our paths? Would we see another moose this time? How about a fox or even a newly placed wolf? Engines started winding down as we entered Washington Harbor. The shoreline began to have a familiar look. The trees still had their bright, spring green appearance as though the snow only left a few weeks ago. More and more I was certain it was a perfect time to live on Isle Royale for a week. Soon we slowed down to gaze through the clear waters of Lake Superior at the USS American. One of many shipwrecks around this large island. After a few minutes of observing this underwater treasure, we were once again headed for the docks to disembark for our journey. In a short time had our backpacks again and needed to check in with the ranger station informing them of our hiking plans before beginning. Filling our water bottles, lathering on the sunscreen, and taking advantage of flushing toilets seemed like a good idea before donning our packs and leaving this relatively modern spot for the wilderness over the next week. A few quick photos to mark the beginning of our journey and it was finally time to grab the hiking poles. Are we ready?

Arriving at Windigo ready to begin another adventure

Adventures, Jeep Badge of Honor, Troy's Blog

Top of the World

Waking up on our second morning in Moab, Utah there was plenty of excitement to get started on a second challenging trail named Top of the World. This is another trail in the Jeep Badge of Honor off road adventures and rated more challenging than Elephant Hill which was the previous 4 x 4 trail we finished. Being a bit more challenging brought with it a little apprehension. Elephant Hill had some big challenges so an increased difficulty trail may be more than we’re prepared for. So many things can happen while off roading. A major dent in the vehicle from a rock or tree, something breaks on the Jeep, or even tipping over are all concerns and possibilities.

Slowly and steadily we make our way up the trail

As was starting to feel routine, we pulled into the Top of the World trailhead and began preparing the Jeep for this off road adventure. Things such as airing down the tires to a relatively low tire pressure and unlocking the sway bar to allow those front tires to move independently over the rocks. It was a beautiful morning so removing the tops over the front seats seemed like a great idea allowing some of the outside sights and sounds to reach us. Once all of these preparations where complete we re-entered the Jeep and drove on down the beginning of the trail. The surrounds where just as amazing as the day before with new and different trail experiences such as a creek crossing and steeper and longer rock ledges to climb over.

Higher and higher we go

Still we were able to climb up these ledges without a great deal of difficulty although there was one we passed that we would be going over on the way back down the trail after reaching the top that looked quite precarious and maybe even more dangerous. Not to worry about it now as there was plenty of trail ahead of us to reach the top. Working our way up and over numerous rocks while avoiding trees we continued up the path without a great deal of difficulty. There were some challenging spots along the way creating an increasingly fun adventure. Eventually we rounded a corner and there was the end.

Reaching the top

Approaching the final few feet, the view in before us became almost unbelievable. Now we understood why this trail is named Top of the World. That’s what it feels like as you look out over grand vistas of red tinted rock sculptures with snow capped mountains behind them all the while viewing them from the top of a cliff that drops hundreds of feet below to green valleys below. Parking the Jeep near the edge we got out and just stared at this unimaginably beautiful landscape. Definitely a trail worth driving on to get to this overlook. A short time after reaching the top, a group of Jeeps rounded the bend below so we took some pictures and moved off of the edge so that others could have this experience as well.

Looking out over the beautiful Utah landscape

While walking around these rock ledges we noticed just how much of a drop off it is and how abrupt the edge was and began to wonder how stable these rocks on top are. Finding out was not something of interest. It was at this point we realized just how far we climbed up during the course of this trail nearly 19 mile trail. It didn’t seem like we were increasing in altitude the over 3,000 feet it goes up. It would have been more difficult to leave this overlook but there were plenty of other vehicles and people giving us incentive to begin our decent before there was more traffic slowing down our adventure. So we turned around and took a different route, climbing down the trail back towards the trailhead.

The end of the trail

Going down some of these rock ledges was a different experience. It’s one thing when you’re looking up at them but going down you often can’t see how deep they are. This creates a couple of choices to make before venturing down each step. Get out and survey the trail to find your best path or just chance it and begin crawling down them. We chose both of these options at times having become accustom to the characteristics of the Top of the World trail. Typically we able to maneuver over each one without a lot of difficulty. However there was this one spot that caught us by surprise.

Heading back down the trail

We were climbing down and then needed to crawl up a fairly large rock. Coming down was typical of what we were experiencing without any issues. The trail leveled out briefly allowing us to get in position to get up the next large rock surface. One tire was up on the rock and we were working the second front tire when the Jeep began to slide and off the second tire came putting us at a very uncomfortable angle. It felt as though the vehicle was near the tipping point and it was a long ways down if it went. Fortunately we stopped moving buying a little time to attempt getting out of this situation. Working the foot off of the brake to see if we could gently roll backwards towards where we came from worked bringing with it a slight sigh of relief. Putting the Jeep in reverse and ever so slowly letting off of the brake once more we began to crawl back off of this rock and became leveled out once more. With hearts racing we attempted to go back up this rock in front of us with a slightly different position which worked well allowing us to more easily continue on down the trail. The picture below is from a 360 camera which was mounted on the dashboard. Looking at the horizon behind us you can see how much of an angle the Jeep was at. All ended well and we made it back to the trailhead without major incidence. Another adventure filled trail surrounded by the awing sights of Utah!

An uncomfortable angle

Adventures, Jeep Badge of Honor, National Parks, Troy's Blog

Off Roading in Canyonlands

A unique way to explore Canyonlands National Park in Utah is through their off road trails. The Elephant Hill trail runs through the Needles district which is in the southern portion of this beautiful landscape. As with many places in Utah the scenery is amazing. Around many turns or over hills reveal much to see and take in. After entering Canyonlands we needed to stop at the visitor’s center in order to obtain a free permit to travel their off road trail. There are a limited number of those given out each day and my friend and I were lucky enough to obtain one for this beautiful, sunny day.

Some of the scenery along the roadside in Canyonlands

It was time to hit the trail so we stopped at a pulloff on the way to the trailhead to get the Jeep ready for some rock crawling adventures. In a short time we had the tires aired down and the suspension prepared for the trail. While stopped I had to photograph some of this incredible scenery in this beautiful park. A few minutes more and we were heading to Elephant Hill.

On the trail overlooking the Utah landscape

The trail gets right into the difficult portion with steep climbs and sharp turns. There’s no mistaking this for a casual gravel road. In no time at all we had climbed to the top of Elephant Hill and began to wonder what was left for a challenging four wheel vehicle. Fortunately there was plenty more to enjoy. Along the way we took time to park the Jeep and take in the incredible views all around us. The top is relatively flat and extends for a bit of a distance allowing you to look around and see the different rock formations and canyons leading to the reason for this park.

Time to go back down Elephant Hill

Near the end of this plateau there’s a sign directing vehicles towards the trail. This is the only place there was a sign indicating the trail goes down through here. I found it entertaining that the icon was of a Jeep. Once getting part way down the hill it was obvious why. A sharp turn requiring off road vehicles to back through a portion of the trail along with tight turns while climbing rocks is already challenging enough. To do this with a truck which has a longer wheel base is even more difficult to near impossible. There was a Toyota Tacoma coming up the hill forcing us to wait at the top for awhile as it grappled with these tight turns up steep rocks. More than once we listened to tires screeching as it tried to make it up. Once at the top the driver looked extremely uneasy and glad to have finally made it through proving it is possible. Just not for the faint of heart as we had passed the drivers wife earlier in the trail walking away from this portion unable to watch as the Tacoma struggled to get to the top.

Maneuvering through tight canyons

During a portion of the trail we were warned of some tight areas that could lead to damage on vehicles. As we approached one of these we were unsure of being able to make it through. Approaching this tight canyon slowly it became apparent the Jeep would get through with a bit of room on each side but very little opportunity for errors to avoid rubbing against the canyon walls. It was fun to glide through and fortunately the top comes off it we got stuck so we wouldn’t be trapped inside the vehicle.

Stunning views from the beautiful Canyonlands National Park

Canyonlands National Park offers some amazing views with so many different rock formations and colors all around. I could have spent hours just taking in all of these views of the area landscapes studying the different types of rocks and rock formations. But there’s still a lot of trail left and much to see so on down the trail we went.

Climbing up and over rocks next to canyon walls

Much of the trial consists of rock ledges to climb over which aren’t extremely difficult but add to the fun while traveling through this beautiful park admiring the views both up close and off in the distance. Some of those views can become a bit distracting so thankfully accommodates in some places. Otherwise you could stop every few minutes just to look around and never drive the entire trail in one day.

Eating lunch while surrounded by incredible views

Earlier in the day, while waiting for the Toyota Tacoma to make its way up Elephant Hill, we decided to grab lunch as we had plenty of time before being able to continue on the trail. It was an amazing spot to eat surrounded by all these beautiful rock formations under the big blue sky. Even though lunch consisted of sandwiches, chips, and an apple (so nothing fancy), I would take that every day with cool sunny skies overlooking the canyons instead of eating a warm meal trapped between four walls inside. As the day continued on we enjoyed climbing over numerous rock ledges and dirt roads all the while enjoying views from the top and bottom of the canyons while taking in a few short hikes here and there completing our day at Elephant Hill on the first full trail of an off road adventure.

Climbing some rock ledges with the Jeep near steep canyon walls

Adventures, Jeep Badge of Honor, Troy's Blog

Getting to Moab, and the First Trail

Waking up from the last night on a soft bed for several more nights, it was time to grab something to eat, stop at a grocery store to complete the next weeks meals, and hit the road to Moab. It was a cool morning in Cedar City, Utah with fresh snow up in the mountains making for a beautiful landscape. Driving up into those mountains resulted in rain changing over to snow near the summit making for a gloomy drive and yet fun to see a little different weather from desert areas below. After getting over the top and descending the clouds once again began to separate allowing sun to spread across the amazing scenery of Utah.

Getting closer to Moab, the clouds began to part revealing the incredible landscape surrounding us.

Continuing east through Utah, the increasing sun highlighted the incredible landscapes that appeared around every corner along with warm up the afternoon temperatures. All of these canyons are why I consider Utah to be National Park central as there are so many in close proximity to one another in this state. We stopped for a brief chance to get out and stretch our legs and take in some of the sights at Devil’s Canyon Overlook just off of Highway 70. Well worth the few minutes it takes to pull off the highway and walk to the Canyon overlook.

Beautiful scenes as far as you can see.

Returning to the Jeep and getting back on the highway we were able to soon see the red rock canyons typical of the Moab area. Excitement grew knowing that these were the types of areas we would soon be exploring with the Jeep which had been in the planning for many months and now they were there right in front of us. Arriving in Moab mid afternoon we went straight to the campground to find our spot and set up the tent getting ready to reside here for the next few days. With daylight still left it was time to go see downtown Moab and even scout out the first trail planned for the next day.

Preparing the Jeep for the trail

A brief scouting of Fins N Things revealed the trail was split into 2 parts, one of which could only be traveled during daylight hours. After a brief discussion about wanting to return to the campsite for food and an evening fire, we decided this first portion of the trail wouldn’t take very long and we would still have time for a nice fire before turning in to prepare for the next day on the trail. The recreation area fee was quickly paid and we were off to a pull out not far away to prepare the vehicle for an off road adventure. Those preparations include removing air from the tires and releasing the sway bar supports which allow the front tires to move freely over rocks.

On the first trail - Fins and Things

Twenty minutes later we were taking in our first trail adventure of the week experiencing the fun of off roading in Moab. The difficulty level of this first trail was rated as the easiest of those we were planning on attempting according to the Jeep Badge of Honor app which seemed like a good place to start and learn how to navigate in this terrain. It was a fun portion of the trail with some steep rocks to climb along with some nice rock ledges to traverse. What made this trail so amazing was the setting it was in while climbing up and down these rocks. The landscape all around consisted of beautiful red rocks and snow capped mountains all in the evening sunlight. What a great ending to a travel filled day in this spectacular part of the United States! Next stop:  Elephant Hill in Canyonlands National Park.

Climbing rocks in Moab